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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4204

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
A logical approach to diagnosing a transmission clunk
I have a slight knock or clunk noise when taking up drive which perhaps points to something on it's way out in the drive train. Now, as mine is a Puma/TDCi, I naturally wonder if it is the well known output shaft spline failure, but as the car has done 65000 miles with nothing changed in the transmission I guess it could be number of things. So, I'm looking for a logical process to diagnose the fault.

Can anyone offer any input or improvement on this?

1) Check/grease prop shaft UJs. Replace if necessary
2)Check prop shaft sliding joints. If this is found to have wear, can it be repaired of is it replacement shaft time?
3) Check drive flanges (is this possible,how do you do it?). Is there any point in just changing the flanges or will the half shafts have to be done too?
4) If 1 through 3 are fine, assume it is the output shaft and buy the kit of Ashcroft.

The above is just my amateur thinking, I'm hoping someone with more experience of these things can help.
Post #548053 12th Jul 2016 9:35am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17338

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Given that your Defender is an '07 (based on your avatar) the most likely source for your clunk is the rear axle drive flanges, they seem to wear quickest (the '07s seem generally to have better putput adaptor shafts than later models).

To check the drive flanges, jack up one back wheel, remove the wheel (if an alloy is fitted), pop the centre cap off the flange and then rotate the wheel back and forth. If it is worn you will probaby see movement between the shaft and flange.
Post #548063 12th Jul 2016 10:09am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4204

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Thanks, I'll look at the rear drive flanges first. If I do see movement, can I just replace the flange, or will the half shaft be damaged too?
Post #548092 12th Jul 2016 11:29am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17338

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Usually both will wear, but if you're lucky the flange will wear faster. All you can really do is inspect both and make a decision based on the result. If you fit a new flange on a worn halfshaft the flange will wear quicker than if you fit it on a new halfshaft.

An alternative would be to replace the halfshafts and flanges with the integrated design used on the very last Defenders.

Ashcroft halfshafts and flanges are both cheaper and much better in every respect that the originals, by the way.
Post #548099 12th Jul 2016 11:50am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4204

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
I've just had a quick look at one side, and there is definitely visible movement beyween the shaft and flange. Just need to decide if replacing the flange only or if I'm wasting my money and the shaft should be done too. Quite a difference in price between the two jobs.

Interestingly, the splines are covered in grease, I though they were supposed to be dry.
Post #548208 12th Jul 2016 6:25pm
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Lotus_esprit_s1



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Uk
Posts: 201

The best thing you can do is go down to your nearest breakers / scrap yard and remove a pair of discovery or defender 300tdi rear half shafts. These are one piece with integral flange, they never ever wear, and are ten a penny (especially when attached to a disco)

They are a straight swap take all of five minutes to fit and will rid you of axle clunk. I have done this as a matter of course on every late td5/tdci I have owned / come into contact with.
Post #548283 12th Jul 2016 8:46pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4204

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Post #548297 12th Jul 2016 8:57pm
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Lotus_esprit_s1



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Uk
Posts: 201

Yes, perfect.
Post #548331 12th Jul 2016 9:46pm
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6090

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
^^^ Would these shafts fit the 110 "rover" type rear axle?

I see the latest upgrade from LR is one piece 110 shafts, but I wonder if they're stronger than 90/disco/RR type.
Post #548373 13th Jul 2016 6:57am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4204

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
I was also about to double check foment before I buy a pair, I assume they are OK for a 2007 110? Don't 110s have a different axle to a 90? Not sure what a Rover axle is, but maybe I'm asking the same question as diesel_jim. Mr. Green
Post #548380 13th Jul 2016 7:05am
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Lotus_esprit_s1



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Uk
Posts: 201

Sorry, they won't fit 110 I don't think, I wrongly assumed you had a 90 Embarassed
Post #548439 13th Jul 2016 11:31am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4204

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
No problem, I really should get round to adding my vehicle details in my signature Thumbs Up
Post #548443 13th Jul 2016 11:59am
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
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Posts: 6090

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
I just did a bit of looking through microcat.

I reckon these disco/90 one piece shafts will work on a 110 (not 100% sure about strength though)

Reason is; The part numbers for "puma" rear shafts are TOB500020 and TOB500030 and is the same numbers for 90 & 110 & 130.

And seeing as the 90 axle is the same (I'm 99.999% sure) on puma's as it is on previous disc braked 90s (and disco/rr, bar the brake disc & calipers) then the one piece shafts and two piece ones should all be interchangeable.

However: Seeing the pictures of, and seeing a military Wolf XD 110 the other day, with the "revised" rear shafts, they have a distinct casting mark on the end of the drive flange (maybe this is to show it as a 110 stronger shaft?) so eventhough the 90/disco/RR one piece shafts might physically fit, it doesn't mean that they're up to the job.

Maybe the TOB500020/30 shafts are strengthened for the 130 loads, so they become "heavier" duty when fitted to a 110 and "super G wagen spec duty" when nailed into a 90?

Or they're only rated for a 90 and will snap like dry straw when in a 130..... Whistle
Post #548446 13th Jul 2016 12:05pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4204

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Too confusing for me. Think I'll wait till pay day send some money in the direction of Ashcroft.
Post #548449 13th Jul 2016 12:07pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4204

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Ashcroft list the same half shafts for both 90 and 110 Pumas, so presumably they are dimensionally interchangeable at least.
Post #548458 13th Jul 2016 12:49pm
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