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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769   
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The roof, rear wheel arches and rear floor will make the biggest difference overall as they are the biggest flattest panels but if your stuck on doing the doors it does give them a more reassuring thud when closing them. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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11th Jul 2016 7:22pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3745 
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Hello
I've done both my front doors with 2mm silent coat, Made a big difference to the sound of the door when you shut it. Previously lets face it it rattles like a tin can especially if your used to a normal car... After it does thud...much better. I may put some 6mm foam in there as will if I have any left from the other jobs, but I'm more than happy with it,  Click image to enlarge I'm still doing the car it bits and bobs when I get the time but its all helping  |
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11th Jul 2016 7:22pm |
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| HossBog Member Since: 22 Jul 2015 Location: Glos Posts: 131
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I found doing the roof (on a hardtop) made a huge difference - using 4mm silencoat. Took a lot of the resonance out.
The doors - more of a thud as Stacey007 says, but I didn't notice a massive change. I've also fitted the dynamat pre-cut system under the bonnet. I'm a bit unsure about that - I think a lot of the sound seems to be bounced back through the bulkhead. 2002MY Defender 90 H/T |
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11th Jul 2016 8:13pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3745
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^ Interesting about the bonnet as I was thinking about adding that to my list.
May look at other options? |
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11th Jul 2016 8:20pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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I thought of the bonnet too, but wrote that idea off after hearing others thoughts.
I also thought about doing the dash bulkhead, however, your talking of such a job of taking the whole dash out just to get at it. Even then, there is various supports etc behind there to fit around. I haven't discounted that idea but at the moment not contemplating doing it being such a big job. Mk1 - Got my roof to do.  Problem I have with my rear and arches is that the previous owner fitted a CP liner.
I like the CP liner it's great, however, it's bonded with silicone and rivets in places. So again, a big job to remove just to get at before even fitting the Dynamat. And before that the seats in the back would need to come out too. 
Suppose I'll get there in the end. 
I bought one big pack of Dynamat, done all west I mentioned above with it abd have some sheets over. But I need more before starting doing more, I know you only really need a sheet per panel but as its a one time fit I like to do a job completely and permanently. |
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11th Jul 2016 9:02pm |
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| Orangesofa Member Since: 10 Oct 2014 Location: Somerset Posts: 214 
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I silentcoated the entire floor area in the rear of my HT and as an experiment, I just put a six inch square piece on the van top sides and lo and behold, the resonance stopped.
This changed how I approached the doors, bonnet etc and I just put sections of the SC material here and there and it made the world of difference. On YouTube somewhere is a video of some dude putting a small square of bitumen-based sound deadening material onto the back of a sheet of metal and it does the trick. The lesson from this is that full coverage is absolutely not required - save yourself a fortune and a lot of hard work and add strategically placed sections of material to achieve the same effect Phil |
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11th Jul 2016 9:14pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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Alive have a little demonstration in their waiting room with two bicycle bells. One is normal, the other has a tiny square of Dynamat. You might have guessed that the tiny square stops the bell from ringing and you just get a little "donk" as the clapper hits the bell.
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12th Jul 2016 7:38am |
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| languedoc Member Since: 13 May 2016 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 283  
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I always thought silentcoat, dynamat etc was designed as a resonance killer as opposed to a sound barrier. I have seen lots of cars stripped down before and they have just a square patch in the centre of the panel.
Are we missing a trick here? Wouldn't it be as effective with a strategic resonance killing patch and then fully covered with closed cell foam? Cheaper and exact same results? Or am I missing something? |
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12th Jul 2016 7:57am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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No, you're correct.
A little bit will stop the resonance. I've put a complete but thin layer on in some areas so provide a barrier too. |
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12th Jul 2016 8:13am |
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| Ads90 Member Since: 16 Jun 2008 Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds Posts: 809 
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I'd say you were right, Languedoc - back in the day I did my Cortina with small bits of heavy bitumen stuff in the center of doors, boot etc. that Halfords sold (in small squares for exactly that purpose), and it made all the difference.
That's all that was needed to stop the resonance. Full-coverage in a light-weight foam would still be advantageous for thermal and sound absorption, like in camper vans. But I'm convinced you don't have to go to the expense (& add to the weight of the vehicle) by full coverage of the dense stuff, although obviously it won't do any harm. Referring back to the bonnet - I think a soft felt type material to absorb the engine sound would be effective, like most modern cars have, rather than shiny foil stuff which might make the bonnet sound nice when you shut it, but make no difference to the airborne sound other than bounce it back. Don't know if there is such an aftermarket product? |
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12th Jul 2016 8:29am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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Languedoc, that's exactly right and I've said it on many threads. Fitting pieces of sound deadening in strategic areas will make the most difference but a full covering will have a slightly better overall result and adding closed cell foam maybe mass loaded vinyl over the top will make the best effect at a reasonable price. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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12th Jul 2016 8:32am |
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| languedoc Member Since: 13 May 2016 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 283
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It reminds me of the time we had to rebuild an e type series 3 v12 and the previous owner had torched on roofing felt everywhere.
It still makes me cringe |
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12th Jul 2016 8:55am |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3745
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I've put 6mm closed cell over the top
I didn't take the seats out as I read that you don't need to cover everywhere also.... But then I have done most areas.. Click image to enlarge So the closed cell on top. Click image to enlarge Using silent coat bulk packs so far I've not thought its that expensive? and it goes a long way. I would not be sure where it needs it best putting pieces here and there so no harm covering more than I may need to? The soft cell foam I had a 5m roll and still have plenty left that was around £40 Keeps me busy doing this so I'm happy |
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12th Jul 2016 11:02am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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I haven't put any squishy foam down on the rear floor of mine, just some hard plastic foamboard. The reason being it gets lots of guff chucked in the back and whatever's there needs to be sturdy and fairly stiff.
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12th Jul 2016 11:54am |
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