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mick



Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 2109

England 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Rimini Red
posi-locks
Are these ok for the defender wires http://www.posi-lock.com/index.html
Post #54611 22nd Jan 2011 8:37pm
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Zinke



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 670

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
NO! NO NO NO NO NO!!!!

(Rant over)

No, there rubbish! Well not rubbish but they wont last, nothing like that ever does. Just solder and heat shrink and it wont fail any time in the future.

If you want something easy to join the wires try these In-line solder splice at the bottom of the page.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...lterms.php


Pete.
Post #54622 22nd Jan 2011 9:50pm
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Glynparry25



Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

Wales 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green
Not too sure if I would want to use those posi-locks... the website shows it most of the time in drawings... why not just use the product they are selling?

Where abouts are you looking at using it?

Glyn Sheep
Post #54626 22nd Jan 2011 10:11pm
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mick



Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 2109

England 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Rimini Red
well i have one of the internal external temp guages like DGs that needs to be wired to lights etc i wont some leds in the back some time Thumbs Up
Post #54628 22nd Jan 2011 10:21pm
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Glynparry25



Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

Wales 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green
Inside I would be ok with a 'Quick splice connector' or 'ScotchBlock'. But I wouldn't use one where it is open to the element. I have had these fitted in vehicles for over 5-10 years without them failing. But as above, if you can solder them and then heat shrink it is the best option..... My pet hate is crimps... they really don't work!

Glyn Sheep
Post #54633 22nd Jan 2011 10:45pm
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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

IMHO solder and heat shrink tube is the only way to guarantee a good solid connection Thumbs Up
Post #54644 22nd Jan 2011 11:19pm
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barjout



Member Since: 09 Dec 2010
Location: Ottawa Canada
Posts: 16

Canada 1996 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Alpine White
Lorryman100 wrote:
IMHO solder and heat shrink tube is the only way to guarantee a good solid connection Thumbs Up


+1 Thumbs Up
Post #54803 24th Jan 2011 3:38pm
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18stone



Member Since: 16 Dec 2010
Location: Mid Essex
Posts: 137

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
barjout wrote:
Lorryman100 wrote:
IMHO solder and heat shrink tube is the only way to guarantee a good solid connection Thumbs Up


+1 Thumbs Up


Ditto- it's the ONLY way to do it right 'first time only time' D300 HSE 110
Post #54807 24th Jan 2011 3:47pm
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cobs



Member Since: 12 Jun 2008
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 336

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Cairns Blue
Adhesive heat shrink tubing adds mechanical strength

http://www.power-store.com/?id=61
Post #54819 24th Jan 2011 4:55pm
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kingofthesparks



Member Since: 06 Jan 2011
Location: Very close to Watford gap services , northants
Posts: 987

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
Just twist them together and hope, AKA Land Rover Style Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter
Post #54826 24th Jan 2011 5:19pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
kingofthesparks wrote:
Just twist them together and hope, AKA Land Rover Style Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter


Forget twisting just wrap them together with tape Thumbs Up Rolling with laughter

Serious Scotch blocks work ok (even though some people will tell you they are evil)!

Soldering or using "normal" connectors Mike
Post #54834 24th Jan 2011 5:49pm
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