 | Home > Technical > how does the hand brake work |
 
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558  
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i would say 4 maybe a bit too tight
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20th Feb 2015 7:43am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298 
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okie dokie,
will try loosening off at the weekend. 
going back to my previous question - I seem to recall the shoes can go in either way round (does that sound about right? and presumably there aren't any little bits or pieces that help keep the shoes in place that I could possibly be missing? |
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20th Feb 2015 8:37am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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Just to update / finish this thread off....
Hand brake doesn't work very well if the drum is mounted off centre. New output flange fitted one quick re-adjustment and it's been fine since-certainly no more rumbling when slowing down. |
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14th Mar 2015 6:19am |
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| pumpkinpatch Member Since: 19 May 2016 Location: Johannesburg Posts: 2 
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I have exactly the same problem, going to first check the run out with a dial gauge as suggested above.
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19th May 2016 5:04am |
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| Justtellme Member Since: 23 Nov 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 310  
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Probably opted for this design because that was copied from the WW2 jeep hand brake design. Early Willys hand brakes were external transfer case contracting types which were changed to internal expanding transfer case mounted ones in 1944 to reduce contamination to brake linings.(GPWs kept the external type right to 1945 end of production) |
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21st May 2016 4:53am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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So hand brake works just fine..kind of.
It would appear the out put shaft on the rear of the transfer box is loose hence the drum moves and up/down and can isolate causing what feels like ap poorly adjusted had brake 
 - I fitted a new output flange kit about a year back |
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29th May 2016 10:18am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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Damn n blast. The 4 nuts on the drum / prop flange weren't very tight. What a difference
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30th May 2016 8:22pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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So we all know that the hand brake ain't perfect hence the x-eng disc conversion.
In terms of an anchor mine works fine and guess others do too so I presume the issue is more to do so the hand brake binding while in motion -yes? The question then is why. They're easy enough to adjust but it would appear the issue is that the shoes don't always fully retract and hence the binding. So why don't they retract. What's so different to the drums on the rear of so many 1980's car for example? |
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31st May 2016 6:47pm |
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| SteveK Member Since: 21 Jan 2015 Location: Bromsgrove Posts: 333  
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Just to throw a spanner in the works: I know X-Brakes are well thought of by many, but that is not everyone's experience (including mine!!) I fitted it and spent ages adjusting it and when it was effective as a handbrake, the pads rubbed against the disc making a juddering noise. When it was adjusted so that it didn't judder it was no longer effective as a handbrake! After several weekends taking it apart and putting it back together I rang X-Engineering and they were very helpful. Further dismantling revealed that the pads had come loose. I secured these with silicone adhesive, but it was more of the same. After a further call to X-Engineering, I bought some new pads (originals worn by rubbing/juddering). This time I got a trusted garage to fit them as I was beginning to doubt my own abilities! Hmm - it was either judder or an ineffective handbrake! I don't know if the X-Brake I bought was at one end of the tolerance and my propshaft, transferbox/whatever is at the other end of the spec, but I tried everything including attaching the cable to each of the alternative attachment points on the arm! in the end I came to the conclusion that life was too short to try and fit a non-juddering X-Brake and I partially recouped my losses by flogging the wretched thing on e-Bay! I have heard a few similar tales talking to other owners and browsing the forums. The standard handbrake has let me down once, but that was just the cable and (thankfully it didn't need endless adjustment to get it working after replacement!!) |
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1st Jun 2016 11:34pm |
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and rattling/banging/scraping on various occasions (especially when hot) no matter how they are adjusted. If it happens, applying the handbrake after stopping will centre everything so it quietens down for a while.
| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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So in general terms you have no issues with th standard drum and shoes rubbing?
In theory I can't see any reason to change the drum.....in practice it seems like the shoes don't always want to return all the way and hence rubbing - I just can't understand why? |
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2nd Jun 2016 4:53am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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good luck.
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2nd Jun 2016 7:36am |
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| SteveK Member Since: 21 Jan 2015 Location: Bromsgrove Posts: 333
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Apart from having to change the cable (which means having to drop the prop shaft on a TD5) I've had no real issues withe the standard drum arrangement. |
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2nd Jun 2016 8:23am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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Hmm. I perhaps need to look at the cable again. I replaced the original cable as it was a little frayed and I assumed it could be that preventing the shoes returning full?
hay hum. thanks. |
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2nd Jun 2016 8:32am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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When I bought mine sometimes with would hold at 3 clicks, sometimes it would roll away and would need 4 clicks. Got used to just putting it at 4 clicks all the time but now it sometimes needs 5 clicks. I've obviously stretched the cable or worn the brake somehow but I haven't had it that long and don't think I've abused it.
What's the correct procedure for using the brake? The TD5 we have on the farm you have to pull up miles before it does anything resembling worth while. |
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2nd Jun 2016 8:54am |
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