 | Home > Technical > dinitrol on older chassis with surface rust? |
 
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| dgardel Member Since: 30 Nov 2008 Location: Veneto (Heart & Head) Posts: 3586  
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high pressure clean, Dinitrol convrust900 (rust converter primer) and then dinitrol wax Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition
IID Pro MV License |
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28th May 2016 1:38pm |
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| Tommo Member Since: 19 Dec 2013 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 830  
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Or bilthamber UB wax direct onto chassis for prolonged protection, has very good longevity and protection against road salt
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28th May 2016 5:34pm |
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| Welshsurferdude Member Since: 23 Feb 2012 Location: Newport Posts: 2408 
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Buzzweld CIO. Its the same stuff they use on the oil rigs in the north sea so it'll last on a defender chassis
Seem to recall it stops rust too. not sure of the ins and out but if you are on fb, find buzzweld (Craig Jones) and give him a message, he is quite active on there 
Just did my rear X member this afternoon with no prep and it looks good with a knackered brush too lol
Click image to enlarge 2008 Santorini Black 110 XS USW (Sold) 2015 Discovery 4.5 Black pack Firenze red XS 2008 Corris Grey 110 XS USW (sold) 2011 Santorini Black 110 XS USW (Sold) |
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28th May 2016 6:26pm |
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| jaygti Member Since: 04 Nov 2012 Location: essex Posts: 377 
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I jet washed my chassis, then wire brushed the worst bits of rust, then rinsed it off quickly again.
When it was dry I put rust converter on before treating it. 2002 td5 90 county hardtop |
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28th May 2016 7:48pm |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 
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So many options, so much advice...
I use a product called Fertan http://www.fertan.co.uk/ great product seems to kill the rust. The Dinitrol after Seems to keep the rust at bay for years with the odd top-up of Dinitrol Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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28th May 2016 7:49pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 08 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
Where did you ger your fertan from!i can only find small bottles!
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28th May 2016 8:20pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20376
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Kurust is the option I used, works well.
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28th May 2016 8:47pm |
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| Nidge Member Since: 27 Jan 2008 Location: Kildare Ireland Posts: 818  
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I've heard good reports about buzzweld too, so I thought I'd give it a go on my current rebuild, but he wanted £ 35 to post a litre to Ireland 
Some Uk companies must think Ireland is the other side of the world  |
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29th May 2016 5:41am |
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| wyvern Member Since: 13 Dec 2009 Location: Cornwall Posts: 2108 
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You obviously havent seem my oil platform .... that is not a good recommendation  Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html
Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126 |
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29th May 2016 6:59am |
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| Anderzander Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1000
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I've just been using phosphoric acid diluted into water, which is the active ingredient in most rust converters - seems to be working ok.
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29th May 2016 7:47am |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665
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On their website: http://www.fertan.co.uk/Buy%20Fertan%20products%20here.htm 1, 5 or 50 litre packs available...
They also list a stockiest in your area: Storrar Marine Ltd 181 Coast Road Newcastle upon Tyne NE7 7RR 0191 2661037 Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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29th May 2016 10:07am |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 08 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
Thanks Martin
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29th May 2016 10:15am |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729  
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I went through this process this past winter.
It''s all contained in my my renovation thread (page 5 in particular) http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792-60.html 2000 Td5 with lots of surface rust on the frame. I did a detailed cleaning job on the compete underside. Hot water pressure wash with cleaner, then wire-cup all the surface rust, followed by POR15 cleaner, metal prep and paint, then Dinitrol. I need to complete the renovation thread, as the truck is complete now (just been too busy to get to finishing the post, but this may get me onto it!). I have been very happy with the result, and of course like any job of this type, the more prep work you put in, the better the result will be. Photos below are the rear frame after removing the fuel tank. • pressure washed • cleaned and peeped with POR 15 Metal Prep • after 2 coats of POR 15 before Dinitrol Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge it's a Landrover thing... my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
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29th May 2016 5:23pm |
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| Welkman Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Essex colchester Posts: 326
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Thanks guys loads of great advice. I will get on it in the next few weeks and give an update. I have already purchased the Di nitrol kit so I was more concerned with the prep needed before application. I will go for some kind of rust converter then a coat of chassis paint then dinitrol.
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30th May 2016 4:40pm |
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