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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Wish I had found this thread before my afternoon under the machine...

So yeah, I've got the crack at the top of the fill breather and I cant be sure if it was already broken but in lowering the tank to fix the other breather it dropped a wee bit fast before my sling caught couldn't have helped - anyways, the other end is well cracked too.

Answers the question why no suction in the tank when I open to refuel though ! (the er, 'breather' breather is clogged).

I think I'll opt for the original tubes, but send the breather up behind the fill as per pictures a few posts ago.

Wot a mission though!

The design is a mess; parts all jammed in there, going in contradictory directions making it next to impossible to know what to do if you haven't done it before. And the bolts (!?), why not a kind of hinged or pinned system that made sure everything lined up, and assisted in holding everything up until you're ready?? As is it's like 'doop-dee-do, undoing this bolt here, yip, goo... Censored ! Censored Censored Censored ' Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #529691 7th May 2016 9:34am
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello All

I parked up behind this 62 Plate 90 which was displaying the signs of a breather pipe fail (probably).

So bang on 'schedule'... did Land Rover not know they were (probably) fitting a sub standard part... Question

My local LR Dealer confirmed that 'at around 3 years we start to see them fail'... too late now but someone
at LR was responsible for 'value engineering' this part down to an unacceptable specification (probably).

I'd be prepared to bet that a standard length of garden hose would perform as well...

Anyway I'm certain it is relativity easy to improve on the LR OEM Pipe (as I and a few on here have).

As this ones a 90 it will be a real Censored to get the tank out...even more of an incentive to fit a quality pipe
having gone to the effort required... Thumbs Up


Click image to enlarge
 SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #530215 9th May 2016 6:48pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Mine was a 110, all makes sense now and I could do it in less than half the time, but what a carry on!

I'm finding it hard to imagine a more dirty/annoying job, what makes the 90 harder? At some stages I was accessing the top of the tank while it was still in situ, is that impossible on a 90? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #530221 9th May 2016 6:56pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello agentmulder

There's a few parts on a Defender that when you get to 'service' them... you are convinced that it was the first thing that headed down the production line and the rest was built around it...I'm joking obviously but it's almost as bad for the fuel tank on a 90.

I'm convinced that the tank is (was) pre-installed on the rolling chassis (top down) before the body is (was) assembled. With the 90 there is just so little room to remove it (by the prescribed method) I took 'corrective action' to improve things, which also helped when removing the tank a further time to apply Dinitrol to this area (especially the forward facing rear cross member)

The 110 and 130 do not suffer the 90s 'characteristics' for tank removal, as there is just more room despite
larger capacity tanks...

Any way if your interested in more detail... here's my fix...

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic25866.html
(I did post this earlier within this tread)

Others claim to have seen and even swapped this pipe on a 90 with the tank not fully removed...I just couldn't get anyway near this level of fix...I was motivated to get the tank out fully so spent the time... but what a Banging Head
overall as you can't believe the situation is not better than it is... Exclamation

Good Luck to those who go down this route... Thumbs Up SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #530231 9th May 2016 7:13pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Impressive!

How long did you rattle the idea of that solution around in your head? When faced with destructive 'maintenance' I usually let it sit for a day or two before committing Laughing

The assembly picture in that thread was interesting, my solution (made much easier by the 110 tank), was to route the breather around to the fill side, cable tie to the fill breather and terminate such that the spill valve thingy was higher than the max level of the fluid (i.e. a filler nozzle 'deep').

Pretty much the same as a picture from another user here somewhere.

This way it cost me about £10, instead of the time or the $$ spent building/buying the 'breather coming off the breather' style breather. Rolling Eyes

I had a about 10mins of 'oh Censored ', when the low fuel alarm kept going off even though I had poured 20L in there - but it cleared when I waggled the vehicle a bit Whistle.

I'd be interested to see how the sensor works, there's only two wires, so some kind of resistive set up? But then, charge in a tank... nope, hrrrm, so logic says it's just a switch that illuminates the low level alarm.

So how does the actual level work? Is it inferred via required work in the fuel pump or ? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #530262 9th May 2016 8:14pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hi agentmulder

It took me 1/2 a day to be sure... Shocked



I know what you mean though...when faced with a relatively 'significant intervention' it's always worth making an extra coffee (or so) before commitment...I reckon this was a X3 assessment before passing the point of no return...(using the jigsaw).

But the thought that 'this isn't such a mad an idea'... came after talking with my local independent dealer
who I trust completely, they do get a Puma's tank out (90) and back without doing this, but that's with the
advantage of being able to stand upright under the vehicle and not frightened to deform the tank (beyond what you would think is reasonable) with a length of scaffolding.

I have subsequently seen this done... Shocked and have no regrets going the route I did...

I didn't mount the breather valve higher, as a few on here have, if I experience problems then at least I know I can get to this area again with considerably less effort than first time round... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html


Last edited by X4SKP on 29th Sep 2017 8:25am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #530283 9th May 2016 8:56pm
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miket



Member Since: 05 Oct 2012
Location: Peak District
Posts: 143

Okay, things have been too easy recently and so my MY09 110 has decided to start dripping diesel onto the ground after I've filled up to the first click on the pump. I can see some cracking around the top of the breather hose and so figure this needs replacing.

I've read the threads about this and can see that it's supposed to be easier with a 110 (ie no need to drop the tank etc). However, it still looks pretty tight down there and so I wondered if anyone has any top tips for replacing the breather?

Any/all insight appreciated, as usual.

Cheers

Mike
Post #555316 11th Aug 2016 12:31pm
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sat13



Member Since: 06 Jun 2010
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 70

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Mike

I needed to replace my breather pipe on my 90, but just could not see any way of getting access and refitting with proper clips after. So I decided to go for the hole in the rear floor method, as somebody on here already suggested.

So if it helps anybody else.

First measure 8in in and 8.5 from rear trim for the hole centre.



Click image to enlarge



Cut hole, I used a 5in tank cutter, but be very careful because the breather pipe is very close to the floor. Also be aware of the floor supports.



Click image to enlarge


Then I decided to elongate the hole as I thought I might as well have access to the joint at the tank connection. Watch out for the floor supports when cutting. The floor thickness is about 14swg probably 2mm so a shallow cut is required. Two rivets will have to be drilled out of the floor support as well.



Click image to enlarge



Treat any bare metal and fit edging strip.



Click image to enlarge



Drill out for rivnuts. 5mm. I could not get an equal pitch because of the floor supports and pipe positions. But it looks near enough.



Click image to enlarge



Fit trim pad for cover. And Waxoil up any bare areas.



Click image to enlarge



Finally fit lid with 5mm Allen bolts.



Click image to enlarge



Regards to all Fletch.
Post #555373 11th Aug 2016 6:11pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Hole in the floor??? Wow, the 90 must be a pig to get to.

As for the 110, I have no idea how I could have fixed it without complete access. So IMO Mike you're going to have to drop the tank...

Maybe if it were clean and I knew exactly how it all worked I could do it in place (but loose), but at the time I couldn't see what I didn't know.

P.S. can report it's still working a treat, zero issues since. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #555401 11th Aug 2016 7:43pm
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miket



Member Since: 05 Oct 2012
Location: Peak District
Posts: 143

Thanks for the feedback.

I've got a DC and so cutting a hole above the tank wouldn't work too well. Plus I'd probably cut through something critical. As for dropping the tank, I guess this could be the easiest option, and would be a good learning process, but I suspect I'm now thinking about dropping it off at my local independent and letting them do the job.

I might just have a feel about underneath and see what I might be able to do without dropping the tank first...

Thanks again

Mike
Post #555527 12th Aug 2016 9:52am
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Mike - not too bad job on a 110, bigruss and I dropped the tank on my 2010 110 with a tow bar in about 25
Mins, fitted a webasto feed pipe and refitted. Top-tip: The tank does not weigh much when empty..

It's one of those jobs that's worse to think about, just do it and you should be fine
Post #555547 12th Aug 2016 11:49am
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Mike - not too bad job on a 110, bigruss and I dropped the tank on my 2010 110 with a tow bar in about 25
Mins, fitted a webasto feed pipe and refitted. Top-tip: The tank does not weigh much when empty..

It's one of those jobs that's worse to think about, just do it and you should be fine
Post #555548 12th Aug 2016 11:53am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
With two people you're laughing Thumbs Up

One requires a bit of creative jigging and toing and fro that eats up time and knees. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #555649 12th Aug 2016 8:00pm
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miket



Member Since: 05 Oct 2012
Location: Peak District
Posts: 143

I got my local indy to fit a new breather pipe in the end - they didn't drop the tank (it's a 110) and fitted the new breather in under an hour. Nice, simple and relatively cheap, which made a pleasant change!

Mike
Post #557949 22nd Aug 2016 8:18am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Post #557963 22nd Aug 2016 9:34am
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