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o4dn

Member Since: 08 Jan 2010
Location: South West
Posts: 546

2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White

Advise needed (driveshaft related)

Hi all,

Yesterday I took my car the dealer for the first service and mentioned the clunking in the transmission that I've been hearing for the last couple of month (the car has only 8500km on the clock).

The dealer needs to investigate that further, but he suspects some game in the rear axle.

He made various tests, like removing the rear and front propshaft alternatively, so see if the problem was with the front or rear part of the transmission.

Now, he plans on removing the rear halfshafts and do a test drive to check for a game in the rear axle. If that's the case, he will secure the driveshaft using Loctite, and if that is not enough, he might eventually replace the rear axle under warranty.

Is using Locttite to secure a game in the transmission usual under warranty, isn't that a temporary workaround that would hide the problem and break later then the car is no longer under warranty?

And what is the potential side effect of using Loctite, on the driveshaft, I understand they are supposed to be free of movement and easy to pull out of the axle if needed...

What do you reckon?

9th Jun 2010 7:56am

CapeLandy

Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 558

The manual as I copied below, states when fitting back the drive flange to the rear diff you need to add heavy duty locktight to the splines - maybe this is what they are planning to do.
Mine did the same and after they refitted the flange with locktight the clunk was gone.

Installation
6 . Remove pinion flange.
7 . Position container to catch oil spillage.
8 .
Using a suitable lever, remove and discard pinion oil seal.
CAUTION: Take care to avoid damage to oil seal recess.
1 . Clean pinion oil seal recess and pinion flange.
2 . Lubricate NEW oil seal lip with clean oil.
3 . Using LRT-51-010 fit pinion oil seal.
4 . Clean the mating splines of the pinion flange and the differential pinion shaft.
5 . Apply high strength retainer STC50554 to the pinion flange splines.
6 . Instal pinion flange.
7 . Restrain flange using LRT-51-003 and instal bolt. Tighten bolt to 100 Nm (74 lbf.ft).
8 . Position propeller shaft to differential housing and align reference marks.

9th Jun 2010 8:11am

o4dn

Member Since: 08 Jan 2010
Location: South West
Posts: 546

Thanks CapeLandy!

9th Jun 2010 3:30pm

fekete

Member Since: 24 Dec 2008
Location: Here on the other end of the computer
Posts: 3626

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Bonatti Grey

Same here as Cape... locktight worked NEVER TAKE LIFE SERIOUSLY. NOBODY GETS OUT ALIVE ANYWAY

9th Jun 2010 5:46pm

sav07

Member Since: 12 Apr 2009
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 7

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Zermatt Silver

I have spoken to the dealer multiple times about this as I am having the same issue, and I am thinking about completing this procedure myself. Do I have to drain oil from the rear diff; if do not remove the pinion oil seal? If it is not drained how much oil should come out through the pinion oil seal? Thanks for your time.

Regards Sav

5th Jan 2011 1:04am

MK

Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2432

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White

Re: Advise needed (driveshaft related)

ofourdan wrote:
Hi all,

Yesterday I took my car the dealer for the first service and mentioned the clunking in the transmission that I've been hearing for the last couple of month (the car has only 8500km on the clock).

The dealer needs to investigate that further, but he suspects some game in the rear axle.

He made various tests, like removing the rear and front propshaft alternatively, so see if the problem was with the front or rear part of the transmission.

Now, he plans on removing the rear halfshafts and do a test drive to check for a game in the rear axle. If that's the case, he will secure the driveshaft using Loctite, and if that is not enough, he might eventually replace the rear axle under warranty.

Is using Locttite to secure a game in the transmission usual under warranty, isn't that a temporary workaround that would hide the problem and break later then the car is no longer under warranty?

And what is the potential side effect of using Loctite, on the driveshaft, I understand they are supposed to be free of movement and easy to pull out of the axle if needed...

What do you reckon?

Are you sure the clunk comes from the rear? When the clutch is "done" you get a clunk "transmitted" along the driveline.

If you take the shafts away, then you need to lock the Tbox and that will cause another clunk as a dog clutch is then engaged. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later

5th Jan 2011 1:54am

o4dn

Member Since: 08 Jan 2010
Location: South West
Posts: 546

Sorry I should have posted a follow-up...

It turned out to be faulty rear diff, and it got replaced under warranty and is all sorted now (it's whining on deceleration now, but I can definitely live with this as it's been said here that it's normal).

So all is well now, I love my Puma

5th Jan 2011 7:52am

MK

Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2432

The whining will be "in creccendo" so I suggest you to make them to adjust the pinion/crown asap. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later

5th Jan 2011 10:12am

o4dn

Member Since: 08 Jan 2010
Location: South West
Posts: 546

MK wrote:
The whining will be "in creccendo" so I suggest you to make them to adjust the pinion/crown asap.

Is the whining a defect in the diff? Is the diff to wear out faster? Or is it just a noise...

5th Jan 2011 10:23am

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8096

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

if a diff is correctly built is should whine at all.

you dont need to drop the diff oil to do this. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

5th Jan 2011 4:47pm

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