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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Coolant loss, could it be the cap?
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20430

United Kingdom 
Found the source, looks like the water pump top left of the photo.
Now just to see exactly where on it if I can, can't proceed any further than that myself though..
Neutral

Click image to enlarge
Post #507959 25th Feb 2016 11:09am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20430

United Kingdom 
On closer inspection I can see some coolant drips above on the vacuum pump.
Looks like a seal to me, I'll have to try and get another photo.
Post #507971 25th Feb 2016 11:36am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20430

United Kingdom 

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


Looking like a vacuum pump seal.

I have some Radweld stuff but Gary @ Alive said don't use it so it's beyond my scope to repair so I guess it'll be a dealer job.

Expansion tank has emptied from half level yesterday. (Half down from recommended) to neigh on empty.
Post #507983 25th Feb 2016 11:54am
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nickhodgson



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Zambia
Posts: 174

 
You may have found the source of your leak.

But the caps are a problem in my opinion and the puma seems sensitive to them. I now test the cap with a cooling system tester and you would be surprised how many (even new ones) don't hold 15psi or leak slowly. I believe that if the cap does not hold the pressure then you will have some water boiling somewhere in the engine once it reaches 100 Degrees. Over time this boiling can lead to reduced heat extraction and blown head gasket. 1995 300tdi Defender 90 P/UP
2011 Puma Defender 130 D/C
2000 300tdi Defender 110 P/UP
2015 Discovery 4 SDV6 HSE
Post #508338 26th Feb 2016 6:45am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17432

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I had a small leak from the water pump gland which caused the same slow coolant loss symptoms you are describing. There is a drain hole in the water pump body to allow water that seeps past the spindle seal to drain, and this is where it was emerging.

In the good old days waterpumps were servicable items and seals could be replaced, but now of course the whole pump has to be changed (I don't remember it as being catastophically expensive, though). There are two purchasing options for the TDCi pump, since the pump has a complicated plastic water manifold bolted to it, namely with the plastic manifold or without. I bought the one with, since I couldn't see where the leak was when the pump was on the vehicle. Needless to say, I actually didn't need the manifold!

The pump and manifold when off the vehicle is a weird thing, it reminded me firstly of those pictures you see of the human heart and its associated plumbing, or of that weird building in Paris were all the service pipework is on the outside! That's modern engines for you!

It isn't a particularly difficult job to change the pump, but access isn't great.
Post #508377 26th Feb 2016 9:21am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20430

United Kingdom 
IIRC the pump it's self is roughly £55 - £130 not too bad in the grand scheme of things.
This started just after Chritsmas when the cold weather hit.

I'm aware of the egg trick if I need it as do I have a bottle of Radweld Plus. Neither of which I have used.

I will ring the dealer today and see what is what and hopefully talk to someone knowledgable.

In the mean time I hope they aren't over busy like last time, or it's probably going to get worse which it has gradually.
To make things worse I do have to use it being the only vehicle, up till now I've just been adding more fluid but it is using more and more.

The Radweld Plus stuff says it would suit this sort of thing and does not need flushing and has 5 stars reviews.
Trouble is I don't know if I'd be doing right or wrong using it do I'm tending not too even though I especially bought it.

Thank-you for the info BW, much appreciated.
Post #508395 26th Feb 2016 10:28am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20430

United Kingdom 
Well update on this.
Took the Radweld stuff back, won't be using that. Decided against it.

Went to main dealer for a pressure test, £63. They diagnosed the Waterpump needs replacing as it appears to have a crack. Or so I gather at least, but this is the perpetrator of the leaking.
At least I know the culprit for certain so that was worth it.
£570. Shocked Was the replacement quote.

I can't lay that much out at this moment in time, however, the water pump it's self.

I thought Genuine they were around £130 but they aren't they are more like £200 - £230.

Am I correct in thinking the OE manufacturer is Borg & Beck or am I barking up the wrong tree?
There is some major difference in price between them and if an OE supplier is the exact same thing then £100 for a box?
Post #510530 3rd Mar 2016 10:10pm
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