Riccarton wrote:

What do those of you do that fit seats without removable bases? In particular what mods are made so you can, for example, access the jack easily on a dark rainy night when you get a flat miles from anywhere?

There's quite a few seats I've seen that I like the look of but the removable base is there for a reason and it would irk me continuously if I fitted something that wasn't right!!!

If I had to access under seat, I would have to use my mini Bahco socket set I keep in the cubby, I suppose the seat could go in the back to save it getting wet  Cheers Simon

I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you

1990 110 TD5 county, my first Land Rover - gone
2012 Discovery 4 XS SDV6 - gone
2014 Discovery 4 XS SDV6 - gone
2015 Evoque SD4 dynamic - Wife’s - gone
2015 Urban Truck 90 XS Santorini Black Hard Top - Reluctantly gone
2020 Discovery 5 Eiger Grey 3.0 SE - gone March 24
2021 Defender S D250 Santorini Black 110 HT - gone March 24
2023 Evoque P300e SE wife’s current vehicle

mcma1 wrote:

Have a set of those above to sell

Not in my price range you don't

Riccarton wrote:

Thanks all - and given the alarm malarky I think I'll stick to lift out bases - I'm a coward I know!!

Like those Jay boy - very smart

Easy access to the left hand seat box is advisable.
The battery, and any additional fuses and relays that have might been installed there (on mine, the ones for the Ebersbacher heater), together with the jack are reasons enough.

But take a look in the right hand seat box, where the "main" fuse box is situated. There are another 25 fuses that might well need attention at some time or other. Incidentally, the seat boxes have small drain holes that should be kept clear. They also mean that water will come in if you drive as slowly as you should do in deep water, but will also drain them as soon as you are out.

Water in the electrics is probably one of the most common causes of modern vehicles malfunction. Blocked drain holes and drain tubes are often the cause. And from that point of view a Defender is no different.

Know where your fuses are. Know how to access them, and carry spares and a flashlight.


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Click image to enlarge 1998 Tdi 90 SW,
2008 Td4 90 SW,
2012 2.2 90 SW,
2" raised Trailmaster/Terrafirma
Heavy Track Raids, 255 MT´s,
Recaro CS´s, anorak, wellingtons

JWL wrote:

Here's a curveball for those who want to fit aftermarket seats. I have put Mazda RX8 seats in my 110 and with it being a Td5 I didn't want to hamper access to under the drivers seat, the passenger one for me isn't such an issue with having an Anderson connector fitted for jump starting purposes.
When I fitted the drivers seat I fitted it on tapered seat runners as I also moved the seating position inwards to keep my shoulder off the doorpost and at the back of the runners I attached the runners to the seat box via a hinge point. In practice all I have to do is undo the fastenings at the front of the seat runners and the whole seat tips back onto the second row, giving me access to the underseat box.
Now while that works well with a Station Wagon as there's no bulkhead it can work with one as if you use the pivots at the rear, undo the front fasteners and use the seat recliner in the fold forward mode and the seat base will lift from the frontgiving you access to the underseat box enough for you to get in there