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jk84



Member Since: 17 Feb 2015
Location: Wherever my Defender takes me...
Posts: 720

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
CDN38 wrote:
These Matt Lee beauties arrived today... I'm going to have the grey coating burnt off, then sand blasted and re-coated satin black.



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Excellent find Thumbs Up Gonna look the business!! MY15 Aintree 110 SW - for sale - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic82781.html
MY16 Santorini 90 HT - sold
Post #499072 1st Feb 2016 12:44pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
At last, the side frames are done!! Picked them up today, along with the fuel filter guard, seatbelt brackets and the mid crossmember to side frame brackets.


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Sanded down the rough spots on the side frames and slid them in for a test fit, perfect Thumbs Up
Probably do a little more touch up on them tomorrow, and now I have them on there I can finish laying out the upstand for positioning.


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Stripping down the NTO Puma second row doors for paint. I am going to remove everything for paint, no masking of the trim on any of the spots. I have been looking at these in my garage for a year now, so I am glad to have the space back, but even more excited to have new doors! I'll strip down my new fronts tomorrow. Hoping to have the doors, side frames, and various other parts in for paint next week.


Click image to enlarge
 it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #499829 3rd Feb 2016 9:39am
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
As anticipated, problems will arise. Lots of time test fitting pieces over and over before cutting and drilling, definitely pays off.

With the under floor support, I noticed it wasn't crimped in along the right side of the chassis frame to allow for the Td5 fuel line that runs underneath like the original.


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So, mark it up, measure a couple time and in the press it goes. Looks a little ugly, nothing a little black paint won't fix. It's going to be completely hidden under the floor. Function first. Thumbs Up


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I was a little shocked at the next fit issue though. Test fitted the upstand, with the side frames bolted in place, drop in the floor and it's 6mm to high in the back Question Hmmm... so, some work on the side frame, jack it up a little and re-bolt it, still the same. Hmmm... did the side frame distort when it was zinc dipped, could be, so, possibly the seat frame cross member is bent or crooked? Time to start trying to figure this one out.


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Took a step back, installed the original side frame, (because we know that fits) and exactly the same problem. The lower lip of the upstand is too far up off the sill. It could only be the upstand ...I check against the old corroded upsatnd section I took out and there it is, 6mm larger. The YRM parts have been spot on so far, but the upstand is too short in the front by a considerable amount! Shocked Only option, off to the local shop and have one fabricated 6mm longer in front. To be installed as is, the floor wouldn't have any contact on the sills, and I would be filling the gap with several layers of foam tape. Not good Mad Swap back to the new side frame, drop in the new upstand, fit's like a glove! Added bonus is that it's a heavier gauge aluminum. (Not happy about having to buy and ship over an upsatnd that didn't fit though.)


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The floor has about a 2mm "wow" in the corner, slight pressure on it and it squarely contacts on all 4 sides of the floor opening. Now with everything fitting properly,this weekend it will be time to cut out the drops for the seat on the inner fenders.


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All the doors are stripped down and out for paint, along with a few other body pieces. Once the cut outs are done, it all comes apart AGAIN, T Wash the side frames, they will go to paint along with the newly fabbed upstand.

Now I need to figure out my dislocation cone issue Laughing .... http://www.defender2.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=503773#503773 it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #503784 12th Feb 2016 7:57am
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Jimb1978



Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 808

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
That's a shame about the upstanding. Mine from YRM was spot on. This might be a bit belt and braces but I made a pressing tool for the upstanding to countersink the floor clips. If you look at the Reginald you'll see the recesses. I can't remember exactly how I did it but I welded one up in steel.

Great work as ever and looking forwards to the finished vehicle Thumbs Up 2002 110 td5
Post #503793 12th Feb 2016 8:19am
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Jimb1978



Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 808

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
Bloody predictive text. That should have read "upstand" instead of upstanding and "original" instead of "reginald"!!!

Hasn't the guy who invented predictive text just died? Seem to remember it in the news this week. 2002 110 td5
Post #503794 12th Feb 2016 8:21am
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Jimb1978



Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 808

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
You can just about see them in this picture



Click image to enlarge
 2002 110 td5
Post #503862 12th Feb 2016 11:43am
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Leviathan



Member Since: 24 Oct 2015
Location: Staffs
Posts: 248

United Kingdom 
I cant quite make out the rivets you have used on the upstand. Are they round topped? And were your original ones like that?
The reason I ask is that I have replaced the upstand in my car recently and it had countersunk blind flat solid rivets that are designed to be peened over from underneath with a former, whilst holding a dolly against the inside flat head.
I couldnt see myself buying all the equipment for this, never to be repeated job so searched around until I found an alternative from ebay.


Click image to enlarge



Hopefully this shows them. They are not identical to the original but are flush and waterproof, and allowed me to fix them with my standard rivet gun.
Post #503938 12th Feb 2016 3:09pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Good call to countersink the floor clips Jimb, I actually hadn't thought about that. It's now on the list.

Now I'm off to the galvanizers to pick up my fuel tank retaining strap, tank cradle and some other bits it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #503964 12th Feb 2016 4:24pm
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Jimb1978



Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 808

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
Leviathan wrote:
I cant quite make out the rivets you have used on the upstand. Are they round topped? And were your original ones like that?
The reason I ask is that I have replaced the upstand in my car recently and it had countersunk blind flat solid rivets that are designed to be peened over from underneath with a former, whilst holding a dolly against the inside flat head.
I couldnt see myself buying all the equipment for this, never to be repeated job so searched around until I found an alternative from ebay.


Click image to enlarge



Hopefully this shows them. They are not identical to the original but are flush and waterproof, and allowed me to fix them with my standard rivet gun.



I am not quite sure to be honest. They were the ones YRM supplied. I think they were blind but not sure. They are the standard shaped head though. The original upstand was spot welded in place. That is why my rivers are all over the place. I felt I had no alternative but to use the holes I had drilled in order to release the spot welds. 2002 110 td5
Post #503990 12th Feb 2016 5:06pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10784

England 
Im still reading your thread CDN38 with great enthusiasm, with the problems you have and then the "problem solver" just great, look forward to the updates when they come, great stuff Thumbs Up

Cheers

Clayton.
Post #504397 13th Feb 2016 8:35pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Things are moving along quickly. My wife wants to take the kids on a road trip to California in March. Shocked

It's full steam ahead! Rear bumper jacking points all done. Thumbs Up Tossing up the idea of galvanizing, but I think I am going to go with zinc phosphate dip, and 2 layers of black semi gloss powder coat and see how that wears. If it starts to rust, I'll strip it and go galvanized.


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Rather than go for the small pocket in the fender well to create room for the Puma seats, I am going to drop the whole front of the section.


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I have seen it done before, and I think the fit is right. Sure, it looks pretty drastic to start, but stand by, and once it's done.. Mr. Green . It's just going to fit better than a little hole cut out for the back corner of the seat.


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But, I know right now looking at it you are thinking "WTF!!!?? Are you crazy!!!???.... just wait...

As soon as the inserts are all folded up and done, out come the side frames and inserts, they can go catch up to the doors that are already waiting at the paint shop for these last pieces. Paint, and then start bolting everything together.

I managed to get the top portion of the wing back on the other day.(other piece is in for paint) GREAT feeling to put a big piece back on. I have about 20 labelled bags of various bolts, nuts and screws, and getting the wing on was the first bag I have got to empty ( I did a little happy dance).


Click image to enlarge
 it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #505385 17th Feb 2016 6:04am
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Justtellme



Member Since: 23 Nov 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 310

Canada 2003 Defender 110 Td5 SW Oslo Blue
Looking very good!
Would like to see what the finished wheel arches look like. What type/spec of aluminum are you using? Did you find a corrosion resistant type for the upstand and wheel arch pieces? Plans are riveting and not welding?

What route are you looking at enroute California? Last summer we drove from home in Victoria(Sidney) down to San Francisco and back. Shoreline down and inland route back home. Great drive. If you haven't done it before, don't bother with the Pacific coastline in Washington state as it is all mudflats, but nice coastline once you hit Oregon.
Didn't have the Defender then, so had to take the XC90...very nice roads.
cheers
Patrick
Post #505456 17th Feb 2016 11:44am
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Using .080 (2.03mm) aluminum. The drops are going to be primed, painted and then riveted in place (with plenty of seam sealer of course).


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Going to take the I5 , head to Eugene Oregon, then out to the sand dunes on the coast. Probably down to coast highway for a good portion from there. Napa Valley, San Francisco. Yosemite, Joshua Tree Nat'l Park... it's still in the planning stages. I'm leaving that up to the Mrs... my job is to get this truck done! it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #505713 18th Feb 2016 5:58am
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10784

England 
Really enjoying your up dates CDN38, making progress now Thumbs Up

Cheers

Clayton.
Post #505955 18th Feb 2016 8:21pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Walked down the alley today to drop off the side frames for paint.I was met with a surprise, my doors are ready to go! . If you look win the second photo, you see 3 holes where the upper hinge goes... the extra hole is for the hidden wiring of the heated mirrors Very Happy


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I have all new fillers and gutters of the front doors, they should be arriving tomorrow. I also drilled out the bottoms of the front doors (they are '07 doors) for the updated weather stripping that comes up around the lower corners of the doors.

I have been studying long and hard for the last year, trying to figure out all the additional things / updates to work into this new door and seat update.

I also had new windscreen brackets painted with the doors. Removed one side, and it was very corroded, and it also lifted some paint off the bulkhead. Tonights project is to sand, mask, premier and paint (all out of a rattle-can) and see if I can make it look reasonable. it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #507192 23rd Feb 2016 2:22am
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