 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > TDCI intermittent start issue. |
 
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351  
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2010 2.4 with 150K on it. Has started faultlessly until the last 3 months which it has randomly not started 3 times. It does however start if you are patient and completely on off it several times. Though I gave up the first time after 4 attempts.
First time was after a speedy hill climb in third. Idled into camp 40 seconds, tried to restart after 5 minutes sitting. Thought it may have been an overheating turbo limp mode issue. Started fine the next morning. Second and third time, warm days 28 to 30deg, car was driven conservatively to destination. Pulled up, turned off, again sat for 10 and 5 minutes and then won't restart. Car started after third and second on off ignition cycle. The car certainly has done hotter and harder days and started no problems in the past. All dash lights glow, then silence when you turn the key when it happens. History: Car spent 8 weeks with LR back when new doing the same. LR replaced almost all the electronics I believe on the starter motor side, and immobiliser side in a net approach to fix what they had troubles working out. Car has run perfectly from then and completed a few punishing expeditions. Immobiliser has been turned off by LR on my request, due to past issues and our remote travel destinations. Door alarm is still active. Any ideas where to start My Defender and travels |
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31st Jan 2016 7:29pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17362  
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1) Check all relays under the driver's are really tight in their sockets.
2) Using a diagnostic tools, disable the passive immobiliser and see if that prevents any further recurrences. Then let us know for next suggestions! Good luck. |
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31st Jan 2016 10:09pm |
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351
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roger, may take some time. Good exercise in patience. Just one query, if the immobiliser has been turned off by LR, would that include the passive side;is there many levels of immobilisation?
Will the dog, the keys have always been left in the ignition as I just happened to pull up and wait in the car. The first time when the car was locked for the night, it unlocked and started as it should, which it does most of the time. Actually, come to think of it the car would not unlock the the day. Fob has a new battery as well. But it would not unlock, so I put the key in the door which unlocked it, then when I opened the door the alarm went off. I stopped the alarm by key in ignition, turn on - off. Maybe LR didn't disarm the dam immobiliser after all. My Defender and travels |
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1st Feb 2016 9:25am |
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| RED-DOT Member Since: 29 Jun 2009 Location: stirling Posts: 2363 
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Classic symptoms of early starter failure... Change it now before it leaves you stranded. 2008 RS4 gone, 123d M Sport, and a Puma 90 XS..
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1st Feb 2016 10:06am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17362
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^^ True, but also classic signs of various other faults.
The passive immobilisation is the part of the immob strategy which periodically interrogates the fob from the coil in the dash, and also immobilises the engine after a period if the key is removed and the doors left unlocked. The TDCi seems to be rather susceptible to problems with this, more so than the generally similar TD5. Turning off the passive immob will not turn off the primary immobilisation strategy, ie if you lock the car with the key or plip it is immobilised still. If LR has turned off immobilisation altogether it is likely that passive immob is also off. |
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1st Feb 2016 10:33am |
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351
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hmm maybe a trip to the dealer. I don't have one of those diagnostic tools. They can tell me exactly what is and isn't off. I recall why I had it turned off now, apart from another flat bed inconvenience. I often leave the keys in it, unlocked, and sometimes the windows down. Drove me batty while camping having the thing lock itself up like it was in downtown London.
Perhaps it could be the starter. It has only happen when the vehicle is at operating temp, and been shut down and attempted to resart shortly after. The fob is quite old, actually lost all the shapes imprinted on the rubber. I replaced the batter recently because sometimes it works at 6 meters, others you have to be point blank. New battery battery made no difference. I'm amazed how our 03 ford focus fob works from 30m away from anywhere, but not a "Ford" Defender......must just be a Land Rover thing hey.  My Defender and travels |
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1st Feb 2016 7:39pm |
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351
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Blackwolf, I think I can safely say it's the immobiliser. Turned off yesterday at the shops, locked it and went in, came out, unlock, no start. Started upon second ignition attempt of on off.
This-morning unlocked and ran fine, got to work and would not lock with fob. Used key to lock. Left work 10min later (got the  with it) and fob would not unlock. Used key and alarm went off when doors opened. Key in ignition on off still would not shut up the horn. Second on off all settled down.
Now before I go to the dealer, is there a better fix than standard. Something from another vehicle perhaps. Can it be completely shut off as I was lead to believe it was. It's unlikely Defenders to get knocked off down here, and from what I have read the standard immobiliser is a 5 minute distraction anyway. Just would rather put $1000 into one of those UK made hand brake locks which the name escapes me at the moment, rather than another immobiliser. My Defender and travels |
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2nd Feb 2016 10:22pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 734  
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Have you tried replacing the starter switch in the steering column? I had trouble starting mine and it turned out that the starter switch was toast. Replaced that and all went well up to the point I had trouble starting again with matching no power to the AC blower, radio, and accessory port. Replaced the starter switch with lock barrel assembly and he's all OK again until the next time, I suppose.
As for you having a difficult time with your FOB, are there high voltage transformers, lines, or towers near by? These really do a number on your FOB's ability to communicate the immobilizer thus rendering our pride and joys unable to start until you push them beyond magnetic field range. In the situation where you opened the doors a different way than when you locked them, the alarm will sound and immobilizer turned on until you either reset with the FOB or enter the EKA. |
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3rd Feb 2016 2:05am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17362
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Have you checked the security of those relays yet?
When it fails to start, does the temperature gauge rise to the top, and do the dash lights stay on or go out? It sounds to me like you may possibly have two concurrent problems (flat battery in fob and the "won't crank" problem), alternatively an AS10 fault or a defective fob could be causing both. |
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3rd Feb 2016 9:45am |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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Can you rule out the defective fob by using the 2nd one?
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3rd Feb 2016 2:13pm |
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