 | Home > Td5 > Td5 Wheel Bearing Replacement |
 
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637   
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Great - thanks.
will do tomorrow and report back progress 
Cheers Andy |
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8th Jan 2016 10:55pm |
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| Force64 Member Since: 02 Jan 2014 Location: Gatwick Posts: 196  
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can you take some pictures as you do it please
cheers, Andy Defender Td5 XS90 |
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9th Jan 2016 7:01am |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Will do
Cheers Andy |
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9th Jan 2016 7:06am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17307 
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It is very poor practice to use a steel drift or punch to fit bearing races, as shown in that video. It's not ideal for removing the old ones either and certainly bad practice if there is any intention to reuse the bearings. You should only use a hard brass drift, since, being softer than the bearing race, it eliminates the risk of bruising (and hence destroying) the race.
Also, in my opinion, the guy in the video installs the hub seal too far, since it shouldn't be pressed up against the bearing. The proper LR tool as far as I know, like using a drive flange, ensures an appropriate inset whilst keeing the seal normal to the axis of the hub. |
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9th Jan 2016 11:58am |
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| yetiman45 Member Since: 22 Dec 2014 Location: Tamworth Posts: 69  
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The method I use to fit Bearing races is use an old race with a split ground into it then just gently tap the new one into place then place the old split one over it and tap it all the way home. the split race then can be removed easily.
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9th Jan 2016 12:40pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Hi folks,
Ok, photos to follow as I actually have not finished! Thinking I was a smart arse, i bought a stub axle to replace the existing one (it had done circa 180k miles) so figured the bearings would have likely damaged the axle (it has but not terribly). So, managed to get the stub axle off, actually no real issue, loads of wd40, leave to soak, impact driver to start them off, then they came off quite easily
My problem now is that I have ordered the wrong  stub axle!!!
I ordered the stub axle kit from Island 4x4 part no, DA3199, which is for a salisbury diff.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Now comparing the two its different and so i arsed up - well i think i have but jury is still out on that one
Question is what is the correct part as I cannot find it on LRCAT or landcover workshop!!! Removed Stub Axle; Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I am going to refit, get the car back on the road then get the correct axle(s) (will order two) strip back in a couple of weeks, and fit new disks, pads Hubs and bearings at the same time. Looking at the Island 4x4 website, i think I need this part, my problem is I cannot get the part numbers to align!! http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/stub-axle-rear-ftc3188g-p-27924.html My truck is, X reg CSW 110, she has a Salisbury diff fitted (standard), I'm not aware that this had been replaced at any time previously. Cheers Andy Last edited by ROBBONTHEROCK on 9th Jan 2016 1:48pm. Edited 2 times in total |
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9th Jan 2016 12:47pm |
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| Mash Member Since: 09 Feb 2015 Location: Guernsey Posts: 1674  
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Andy
Model of your defender will help to identify the correct part numbers. You got that in just in time  90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html 110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html 52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html D3 Hse - Fiona Capri 2l S - Anna Think I might have a problem............ |
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9th Jan 2016 1:31pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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I'm updating the post so that its all there - just adding some more photos now! Cheers Andy |
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9th Jan 2016 1:34pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Ok, I have updated the post above with my photos.
I think the notch which has been removed is for the ABS sensor. Other than that I'm not sure how else to identify it! I think I need either of these parts:- http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/stub-axle-rear...-7512.html or http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/stub-axle-rear...-7513.html Neither make sense ;( Cheers Andy |
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9th Jan 2016 1:52pm |
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| Mash Member Since: 09 Feb 2015 Location: Guernsey Posts: 1674
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Far too many blue bags for my liking there, I'd recommend a phone call to a site sponser Advance Factors, I have had excellent service from them with quick postage. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html 110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html 52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html D3 Hse - Fiona Capri 2l S - Anna Think I might have a problem............ |
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9th Jan 2016 2:08pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Ok, but still doesn't really explain the part discrepancy.
I appreciate Britpart might not be everybodies cup of tea, but for me they have been ok. I have genuine OEM bearing set-up, it was only the stub axle kit i bought as brit part. For me its still a question of what is the correct part number for the axle i have? According to the data I have its a normal (for 110 and X Reg vehicle) rear axle, which is a salisbury diff assembly. Cheers Andy |
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9th Jan 2016 3:14pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Ok, bearings and seal fitted to the hub.
See attached photos. The driving flange idea worked a treat, but its worth pointing out a few things. The hub has a land behind where the inner bearing race sits, this land is approx. 14.65mm deep as measured from the edge of the hub. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The seal is approx 10mm thick (excluding lip height). Therefore pressing the seal into this land automatically sets the seal depth. Click image to enlarge I fitted the seal to the hub, then used an old bearing race to start the seal off, then kept tapping it in until the seal was flush with the hub. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I then fitted the flange over the seal, being careful that the lip of the flange fits around the lip and sits on the seal. I then fitted a big impact socket onto the flange (so it hitting with a hammer wouldn't damage my flange), i tapped the seal down gently until it felt like it was to depth (flange lip is more than 4mm, so don't be tempted to keep hitting until it hits the hub with a ring (you'll push it too deep), remember the seal is only going down about 14mm. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Hope that all makes sense, please give me a shout if not, i took loads of photos, so will post more if it helps. Cheers Andy Last edited by ROBBONTHEROCK on 9th Jan 2016 11:31pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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9th Jan 2016 7:24pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Before anybody comments as to the state of the disk!
I will going back into this sometime over the next few weeks and intend to replace the stub axle(s), disks, pads, and hubs and a nearside brake caliper. Cheers Andy |
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9th Jan 2016 7:40pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 734 
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How did you get on with the bearing clearance? One nut with a spacer or two nut system?
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12th Jan 2016 8:14pm |
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