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ROBBONTHEROCK

Member Since: 23 Jun 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 637

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Firenze Red

Hi,

Point taken - I guess the only way to double check would be measure the end float.

Sigh, oh well, looks like i'll be buying and converting to the two nut system.

It doesn't mean a change to the hub carrier does it, just you need two nuts and new locking ring.

Cheers
Andy

1st Jan 2016 4:10pm

JWL

Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

No change, the only thing that's different is two thin 52mm nuts with a large things washer to bend over the flats as opposed to a large nut with a conical type top that can be flattened against the flat on the threaded part of the stub axle.

1st Jan 2016 4:26pm

rustandoil

Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 734

2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey

ROBBONTHEROCK wrote:

I'm figuring the bearings are the same on both kits, if its the single nut set-up, then I will just re-use the spacer and rely on the bearing manufacturer tolerances.

At the end of the day, surely the spacer is not really for the bearing tolerence (they are manufactured to tight specs), but the machining tolerance of the hubs, so if you reuse the same hub then really you should be fine (I think).

Cheers
Andy

That's how i was thinking, but in practice I needed to change the spacers

1st Jan 2016 4:57pm

ROBBONTHEROCK

Member Since: 23 Jun 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 637

Thanks for the advice folks.

Bearing kit(s) ordered from island 4x4, just need to get them on Wednesday to fit them.

Will let you know how i get on

Cheers
Andy

1st Jan 2016 8:42pm

Lionel

Member Since: 12 Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 59

[quote="Appleby"

Quote:
After having my landy up on axle stands over the weekend I can feel absolutely no play in any of the bearings I wouldn't put it past the garage that did the MOT to fishing for work (I wouldn't use them if they weren't so damn cheap).

IMHO if you can't detect any play in the bearings when the vehicle is on stands, I would leave them in. Any serious play will effect the brakes first, in my experience. You will notice that after going around corners the pedal travel will increase slightly when you press the brake.

Try this as a test, & if all is well just re-grease the bearings & leave them in - & of course, keep an eye on them.

Cheers,

Lionel

3rd Jan 2016 10:12pm

ROBBONTHEROCK

Member Since: 23 Jun 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 637

hi all,

Just removed the bearings on my truck, on the drivers side, will refit them tomorrow.

When fitting the hub seal on the rear of the hub, the workshop manual says fit the hub seal flush with the hub.

Looking at the existing hub seal, it looks like its sitting approx 3 to 4 mm deeper in the hub, with perhaps just the lip sitting flush.

Whats the correct setting, and is using the lr tool to fit the hub seal critical? I was figuring to just chap it into position using the old bearing race to the correct depth.

Thoughts?

Cheers
Andy

8th Jan 2016 12:29am

Dave-H

Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1507

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green

Fit it flush as stated, it will get pushed in further if required on bolting up the hub

Special tool not required, I tap them in with a small rubber mallet .... Just make sure you keep it straight .. Guns and Landrovers .... anything else is irrelevant.

8th Jan 2016 9:41am

ROBBONTHEROCK

Member Since: 23 Jun 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 637

Great, thanks.

At what point do you bother changing the hub shaft (the shaft the bearings sit on)?

I'm guessing it the seal surface is badly scarred or scratched, or on the surface shaft the bearing's sit on. I just want to know how bad I can leave it before changing it.

Also, anything I would need to watch if I were to replace the hub shaft.

The bolts are very rusty looking, so I guess there is a good chance of rounding them or snapping them?

I guess the trick there would be to heat the area of the threads on the diff side and then give it a go.

If you round the head off the bolts, then you grind back and weld a nut onto the bolts to go again??

I'm up for putting new kit on the rear axle, but am cautious on what additional work I create!!!

Cheers
Andy

8th Jan 2016 12:20pm

yetiman45

Member Since: 22 Dec 2014
Location: Tamworth
Posts: 69

2005 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Blenheim Silver

The stub axles do wear in time, the part where the axle meets the flange can become pitted and that then will cause wear on the oil seal wiper, so then you get leaks. The bolts are high tensile and will take a lot of torque before they break, just give them a good soak with WD40 etc.

8th Jan 2016 12:58pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17308

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

ROBBONTHEROCK wrote:
...

Whats the correct setting, and is using the lr tool to fit the hub seal critical?

...

The hub seal should be fitted so that it is inset into the hub, and personally I wouldn't fit it flush and rely upon the fitting of the hub to push it in (if you do that the seal must by definition be rubbing on something it shouldn't rub on. The latest seats are double-faced anyway and therefore protrude outwards.

The easiest and cheapest special tool to use when fitting these is a standard drive flange. The face which usually bolts to the hub has a locating ring on it which is exactly the right diameter to fit the seal, and exactly the right thickness to inset the seal the right distance. So place the seal on the hub, place the drive flange carefully on the seal, and gently tap the seal evenly into place until the drive flange touches the hub all round. Job done.

I keep an old drive flange in the toolbox specifically as a hub seal fitting tool.

8th Jan 2016 1:55pm

Mo Murphy

Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2211

1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey

That's a good tip Blackwolf !
Remember Gents, when greasing the bearings that you need to pack grease around the rollers not just wipe grease onto the bearing, so a good handful of grease in your hand and really push it in around rollers. It should take a few minutes to do each bearing.
Oh and rubber gloves are a good idea 😊
HTH
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey

8th Jan 2016 3:40pm

ROBBONTHEROCK

Member Since: 23 Jun 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 637

blackwolf wrote:

The easiest and cheapest special tool to use when fitting these is a standard drive flange. The face which usually bolts to the hub has a locating ring on it which is exactly the right diameter to fit the seal, and exactly the right thickness to inset the seal the right distance. So place the seal on the hub, place the drive flange carefully on the seal, and gently tap the seal evenly into place until the drive flange touches the hub all round. Job done.

I keep an old drive flange in the toolbox specifically as a hub seal fitting tool.

Brilliant tip, I will look at doing this tomorrow, get the Landy back on the road

Cheers
Andy

8th Jan 2016 4:37pm

ROBBONTHEROCK

Member Since: 23 Jun 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 637

Mo Murphy wrote:
That's a good tip Blackwolf !
Remember Gents, when greasing the bearings that you need to pack grease around the rollers not just wipe grease onto the bearing, so a good handful of grease in your hand and really push it in around rollers. It should take a few minutes to do each bearing.
Oh and rubber gloves are a good idea 😊
HTH
Mo

Yeah, I know what you mean on this one.

Need to ensure the grease works it's way into the rollers!

Cheers
Andy

8th Jan 2016 5:10pm

ROBBONTHEROCK

Member Since: 23 Jun 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 637

Folks,

Regarding the driving flange trick to set the seal in place;

Do you press it in until the flange bottoms out on the hub?

Never used this trick before and i really want to avoid

the seal!!!!

New seal height (height of the lip) is 5.5mm.

Driving flange edge height is 6.75mm.

Old seal seems to set to around 4 to 3.5mm measured from hub edge to the body of the seal.

PS the driving flange is a new LR flange (not brit part).

Cheers
Andy

8th Jan 2016 8:47pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17308

ROBBONTHEROCK wrote:
Do you press it in until the flange bottoms out on the hub?

Yes.

8th Jan 2016 10:48pm

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