 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Stall on tick over - No acceleration |
 
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| irnerd Member Since: 11 Jan 2015 Location: WILTS Posts: 5  
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Similar to this thread - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic22732....stall+tick
2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 TDCI van, 24,000 miles. Extensively serviced, low mileage. Symptom : Engine stalling (coughing on tick over, not accelerating at all) - except - unlike the poster in 22732,: Only ever put diesel from supermarkets Never ran the tank empty Background So 6000 miles after an extensive service: We had an engine limp home mode episode complete with amber engine light. OBD-II unable to find anything (surprise surprise). So out came the electric sensor cleaning method. After digging around found out limp mode was a reaction to damp electrics near the fuse box area caused by leakage from the eroded seal between front windshield and the bulk head. All sensors were dried and cleaned, and the seal between windshield and bulk head was siliconed - no more leaks - no more limp mode Again, after the electrics were fixed - no more limp mode after vigorous testing : labouring, hard revving, cold start, warm start. We were unable to get the limp mode. So for good measure - threw on new fuel and air filters and oil change. All good for 250 miles. Last drove it 2 days ago (2 Jan) - 40 mile trip - no episodes. This morning we have no power - stalling on tick over, no acceleration. No engine warning light either. Is this likely to be a case of flushing the fuel system through? - Could a new filter cause an old fuel pump to pack up? Should we just not pass go and collect 200 quid? Thoughts very appreciated. For such a low mileage truck it is becoming disappointing. Anybody else experienced this irritation and had fast and frugal remedy? Bootnote - for those that see the seal between windscreen and bulk head looking a bit ropey (-it looks more like carpet sponge than a sophisticated seal): (LR quote that the roof needs lifting off, windshield unbolting and seal lifting and replacing. We opted for the more practical approach of adding strong outdoor silicone - the cab has been dry since.) [size=9] Deflated as this is not a great start to the new year. Thanks for reading[/size] |
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4th Jan 2016 8:09am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804  
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My wife's Mini did this. Hard to start, idled irregularly, stalled frequently. Dealership thought it was running on 3 cylinders, so did a full diagnostic at Mini, nothing showing. Took it to my local indie Defender nut and he said fuel pump and/or battery. Changed both, not at the same time, drives like a dream. New battery stopped stalling and making it hard to turn over, new fuel pump ironed out the irregular idle. All good.
 Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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4th Jan 2016 9:11am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
your battery is 8 year old if it is factory fitted one i would charge the battery up and test it for AH corpusty. the problem could be it will not hold a 90% charge any more
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4th Jan 2016 10:46am |
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| irnerd Member Since: 11 Jan 2015 Location: WILTS Posts: 5
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Thanks dorsetsmith.
Will run test Amp Hours and report back. Forgive my ignorance - not heard of corpusty other than a village in North Norfolk. |
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4th Jan 2016 11:13am |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 981
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I had similar symptoms a few years ago. The garage found that the windscreen was leaking onto the AS10 and some of the terminals had gone green. The one that caused the problem was the key fob sensor. The car went into limp mode because it thought that the key was out. Trouble is, the AS10 is a b*rstard to get at. A lot of dashboard has to come out and because they fit the AS10 to the bulkhead and build the car around it, you can't get to all of the bolts etc. Holes need to be drilled. Once the binnacle is back you can't see them.
This may be your problem. Merlin |
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4th Jan 2016 11:46am |
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