 | Home > Td5 > Shuttle valve switch removal! (ABS unit) |
 
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| RF3777 Member Since: 10 Apr 2015 Location: Hong Kong Posts: 144   
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I have logged many time Shuttle valve switch electric fault, from search of web I understood its a part under the ABS box, but it doesn't seem a way to remove it, its on the inside of the wing, I heard people remove that shuttle valve switch from side air vent, I think I would give it a try, I hope if anyone would give me an instruction how to remove the side vent and those plastic part and tubes inside...
Thank you  |
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5th Nov 2015 2:58am |
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| RF3777 Member Since: 10 Apr 2015 Location: Hong Kong Posts: 144
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My ABS/TC light on, but restart the car usually goes off, but will then on again...
I read an article tells might need to engage the HDC sometime to put the ABS modulator to work, this will cure some of the error, I did try on a very deep road down, engage the low range just now, the ABS/TC light go off at once I released the clutch! Now see if the light comes up again... 
Click image to enlarge |
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5th Nov 2015 6:41am |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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I did replace mine in situ but it is a right royal pita. The way I did mine was to take off the air vent(snorkel on mine) along with all the inner airpipe assembly. Take off the wing stiffener bracket which allows you to start getting at the modulator.
I then undid the brake pipe clamp off the clutch pedal housing then a mixture of access through the vent and from the engine bay took out the modulator fixings to the mounting plate so the modulator is "floating". I then took the mounting plate out from underneath the modulator. With gentle pressure you can tease the modulator up an inch or two and property up which gives you a little more room to allow you to get to the three fixings holding the switch plate to the bottom of the modulator. It is very fiddly, a lot of the spanner work is done by feel and at the extremities of your reach. I went this way as with doing school runs at each end of the day I didn't want to run the risk of immobilising my motor. The first time I did this, I did the bypass option first, it took about 3 hours which included faffing about soldering new wires plus digging out half a bucket of accumulated crud that magically finds its way into the area you're trying to get to. When I replaced it with a new one it took around an hour and a half including sorting the snorkel. If you're competent with a spanner and have patience then go for it. |
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5th Nov 2015 8:31am |
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| RF3777 Member Since: 10 Apr 2015 Location: Hong Kong Posts: 144
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Thank you so moch for your instruction! Glad to know can take that oart off from the side cent, but seems not easy at all!
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5th Nov 2015 10:13am |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
You can remove the ABS pump via the air vent,but it is unlikly that you can save the plastic grill which is held in place with tiny,tiny ultra fragile plastic clips,which break when you look at them.I bort a stainless screw in jobbie that you can repaint black. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
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6th Nov 2015 2:46pm |
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| rfkdemon Member Since: 02 Apr 2015 Location: Staffordshire Posts: 64  
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It is actually possible to just remove the shuttle valve in situ as I have done this with my TD5 at the beginning of the year.
I did this quite simply by taking the arch spat off, this gives ample access to remove the bolts holding the side of the wing on. Remove the side of the wing and then use a ratchet spanner to remove the bracket the ABS pump sits on. This then gives you enough room with an 4mm Allen key to remove the 3 cap heads holding the shuttle valve in. I have some pics of the job that I will try and attach later if that helps? Matt |
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10th Nov 2015 8:03am |
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| RF3777 Member Since: 10 Apr 2015 Location: Hong Kong Posts: 144
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Is the "SWO500030" ABS Modulator Switch 1998-2004 correct parts for TD5 2003?
Thank You  |
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12th Nov 2015 3:54am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
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12th Nov 2015 7:22am |
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| RF3777 Member Since: 10 Apr 2015 Location: Hong Kong Posts: 144
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dorsetsmith: Many Thanks
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13th Nov 2015 6:14am |
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| LinDens90XS Member Since: 24 Feb 2012 Location: Merseyside Posts: 83 
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I did what rfkdemon did and removed the side of the wing (tip: put pieces of masking tape at various intervals and mark with pen, then split tape at join, you will then be able to put it back in the same place). I removed the 3 nuts holding the pump (2 at the back) forced it up a bit and bent the bracket to ease the pump up enough to use the allen to remove the shuttle valve. Before replacing, I cut a vee in the bracket to match the front bracket so if I needed to do it again it would lift straight up, if you see what I mean. I did not touch the anything else on the pump so their was no leakage or muck to enter the system. I ordered the part for the Disco2 as apparently it is not available for the Defender (approx £40). been done now over a year and no problems since (hope not spoken too soon). Took me the weekend and a few skinned knuckle's but saved a lot of money. Just take your time and be patient, it helps if you have very small thin hands though. Hope this helps. Regards
Dennis. |
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13th Nov 2015 10:31pm |
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| RF3777 Member Since: 10 Apr 2015 Location: Hong Kong Posts: 144
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It was real pain to change that shuttle valve switch, hope never in life need to do this again!
we work through the side vent basically!
In the end, I didn't put back one of the bracket bolt, because just cant get my hand in there... Some insect egg found inside side vent... 
Have someone pull the ABS unit up to free up space under it...
sometime work through from top wing! |
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27th Nov 2015 1:06am |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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Within half an hour you can take a wing off so then you have plenty off space to work.
Click image to enlarge Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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27th Nov 2015 7:19am |
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