 | Home > Td5 > Fuel Filter Head |
 
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| Freypal Member Since: 23 Sep 2013 Location: Shropshire Posts: 271   
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Typically, last item on the service list - replace the fuel filter and it all goes wrong. trying to unscrew the filter from the head and the whole thing came off in my hand. As below, the head seems to have corroded away.
 Click image to enlarge Looking online the cheapest genuine part I can find is; http://landrover.shukersparts.co.uk/fuel-f...00020.html Searching here it seems all the heads are interchangeable for the td5. Mine is a very late 06 with no water sensor anyway. Does anyone know of a cheaper genuine part? Also, I've never had to fetch those td5 push fit fuel connectors apart. How do they work? As in, how do I remove them from the old filter head and then reconnect them to the new head? Cheers |
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25th Oct 2015 11:28am |
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| Freypal Member Since: 23 Sep 2013 Location: Shropshire Posts: 271
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Not a bad idea, was thinking how to secure it short term. I'm guessing this is a common problem. Alloy just looks like its been poorly protected and has oxidised away.
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25th Oct 2015 11:39am |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 932  
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Throw some oversized flat washers on the bolts that way it will still hold in place no need to get a new one. 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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25th Oct 2015 1:33pm |
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| jonny2tanx Member Since: 06 Jul 2014 Location: Harpenden, Herts Posts: 156 
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The pipes have catches in them that need to be squeezed together to get them off. They are quite fiddly if you have banana fingers like me. I used a pair of wire strippers - the type with the ends at 90 degrees, to squeeze mine in. I put a bit of tape around the two outer pipes to ensure I replaced them in the correct position. If you buy a new one you will probably have to transfer the non return and air bleed valves in the pipe connectors. I did mine the other week as the old one was leaking and looked like it had been chewed by mice. I used a head designed for an earlier model on my 2005 110. Bought the head and filter from Maltings Offroad from their Ebay shop with next day delivery. Allmakes brand with filter for £110 all in. Took less than an hour all in including removing and replacing the wheel and bleeding afterwards.
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25th Oct 2015 2:20pm |
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| Freypal Member Since: 23 Sep 2013 Location: Shropshire Posts: 271
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Thanks chaps. Unfortunately I cant use oversized washers, when I unscrewed the bolts the filter head completely disintegrated. It was incredibly brittle.
For now its held up with cable ties and wedged against the filter cover. I'll order a replacement and look at getting it done asap. |
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25th Oct 2015 2:26pm |
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| Swac3 Member Since: 21 Feb 2015 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 363 |
Did mine on the TD5 a week ago, 130 quid from LR main dealer with the pipe fittings nrv and air filter thingy and a fuel filter. As said the pipe clips can be fiddly but squeeze the sides and push in/pull out and they will come off,
I used copious amounts of brake cleaner to get all the crap and grime off everything before removing the pipes and again inside the push fit bits as they were full of crap before connecting it all up. Edit: OH, forgot to say, check the location of the pipes on the new head, as they're not always in the right holes, I'd seen mention of it online but even the main dealer parts guy said to check, and... they were wrong. They were also all loose which he had mentioned. 3 Landrovers |
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25th Oct 2015 3:27pm |
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| Freypal Member Since: 23 Sep 2013 Location: Shropshire Posts: 271
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Thanks chap. I'd read the same.
On yours was it the NRV and bleed valve that were in the wrong unions? |
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25th Oct 2015 5:03pm |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 932
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Just finished undercoating my 2000MY 110 yesterday. I want to try to stay ahead of these silly issues... Good luck with your repair.
Cheers Click image to enlarge 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris) 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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25th Oct 2015 5:13pm |
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| Freypal Member Since: 23 Sep 2013 Location: Shropshire Posts: 271
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Thanks mate. Funnily enough I have also ordered a dinitrol kit as well today for the same reason! Need to stop it now, I know too well the implication of leaving it too long. Had to do a lot of welding on my old 200tdi 90.
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25th Oct 2015 5:32pm |
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| Swac3 Member Since: 21 Feb 2015 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 363 |
The air bleed was ok, but the NRV was in the right hand side nearest to you as you look into the wheel arch.
So you could look right through the two pipes nearest the chassis. 3 Landrovers |
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25th Oct 2015 5:49pm |
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| Freypal Member Since: 23 Sep 2013 Location: Shropshire Posts: 271
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If I understand right, the bleed valve should be in the pipe closest to you as you look at it and pointing the rear of the car and the NRV should be furthest pipe away pointing the rear of the car?
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25th Oct 2015 5:57pm |
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| Freypal Member Since: 23 Sep 2013 Location: Shropshire Posts: 271
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So new genuine part arrived today and like stated it does appear the valves are in the wrong lines!
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28th Oct 2015 9:03pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
air bleed valve red arrow |
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28th Oct 2015 9:37pm |
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| Freypal Member Since: 23 Sep 2013 Location: Shropshire Posts: 271
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Cheers, and the NRV is in the one immediately behind it?
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29th Oct 2015 10:04am |
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