 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Busted Bearing and what else....? |
 
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351  
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Common guys, if the stub is of a better quality purchase, and Timken bearings are used then all things should be still equal. The single nut and spacer isn't a bad option, just place it in there and crank the hell out of it. My thinking is if the bearing broke down due to over or under tension, it would have happened at a much lower kilometre range. Faulty case hardening, made in China, lack of grease or some contaminate were more likely the cause. My Defender and travels
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29th Sep 2015 7:05pm |
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351
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Im wondering from an accountans point of view, if putting a spacer in, checking it, maybe changing for another, checking it. And possibily doing it all again would not be the most eficient way of doing it. If unskilled people are fitting something with pretty important tollerances and possible outcome than it has to be pretty fool proof.
On a side not, Roll Royce once upon a time had a lad sit there fitting cast pistons to block sizes. It was a slow process and every engine had all sorts of sizes in it. The Ford motor company introduced better machinging and accuracy to RR, and rest is history. Thank god the Merlin motor was born. My Defender and travels Last edited by newhue on 30th Sep 2015 6:42pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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30th Sep 2015 12:57am |
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| brayn Member Since: 28 Dec 2013 Location: Switzerland Posts: 8  
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Well I'm figuring I'll have a go at the two nut method as I can't get the spacer off... (Can't be bothered trying to be honest) And as it turns out, the outer bearing case wiggles a bit in the hub so the hub is toast too...
So another internet order, some more customs fees and another afternoon working from home to wait for the super convenient delivery company and I'll finally be able to attack the reassembly job. I ended up ordering some new discs and pads, as I figure the whole lot is off , would be a right #$@&% of a thing if I resemble and then find there's a problem/warpage with discs too... Caliper seems fine... But the ABS warning was on after the bearing blow out. That could have been due to hub wobble on its own. Anyway if I don't need them, they'll come on handy down the road. Just got standard Lockheed stuff as I figure it worked before, and I have to take the truck in for an MOT equivalent test before year end so best bet is OEM... Hopefully I'll be on the job next week. |
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30th Sep 2015 5:28pm |
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351
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yeh the joy of working on a Land Rover soon becomes ho hum when you wait a week for parts, and even worse if you see the courier drive off without even attempting drop the parts off because they figure your not home.
Forget my mention of refurbing or cleaning the whole diff. I forgot you have the inner oil seal which will keep any muck on the outer side of it. I run my whole set up in oil. make sure you seat the hub seal RTC3511 well. It sits about 3 or 4 mm into the casting. If you seat it flush it all works and feels right, but only for a limited time. I can guarantee that.  My Defender and travels |
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30th Sep 2015 6:41pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17373  
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Top tip for seating the hub oil seal correctly: take the drive flange and use the side that normally faces the axle to drive the seal into tbe hub. The locating lip on the flange is (a) exactly the right thickness to push the seal to the right depth in the hub, and (b) exactly the right diameter to avoid damage to the outer lip of the seal. Using this technique you will locate the seal at the correct depth and perfectly square in the bore of the hub every time.
If you set out to design a special tool for the job you couldn't do better! |
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30th Sep 2015 9:31pm |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 981
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So what is the torque on the cover bolts? Not too tight seems a bit loose (no pun intended).
Merlin |
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16th Oct 2015 10:42am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17373
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Sorry, which "cover" do you mean?
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16th Oct 2015 11:50am |
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| Toplink Member Since: 05 Dec 2010 Location: Somerset Posts: 159
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Driving flange bolts 65nm( no loctiite or spring washers needed).
Big stake nut/hub nut 210nm. Hope this helps gen or oem parts all the way. Its never over in my land rover. 2007 Defender HTop. 1952 Series One 80" 1977 Muir-Hill 111. 2014 Triumph Tiger800xc 1999 Discovery 2 td5 1982 Ransomes TSR300D. 2002 Yamaha XT600e. 2010 Freelander2 (the wifes) 2008 John Deere X140 |
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17th Oct 2015 6:21pm |
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| Td5 Member Since: 29 Jun 2015 Location: Finland Posts: 53  
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As "newhue" mention, use seal RTC3511, not the new FTC4785 (I'm not 100% sure about this number)
RTC3511 has double lip and springs in seal, FTC4785 is the new model that has no springs and is more for tarmac. RTC3511 is the "old style" seal that at least in my Defender can handle hood deep wading. You might also consider always purchasing either original or OEM seals, like Corteco, I have found some bad, but only marginally cheaper seal on the market. Wrong place to save. My humble opinion. Remember to feel how warm the hub get after driving. You find a lot of advice if you Google how to adjust the bearings, some OK, some bad. Brgds, Juha '96 300Tdi 90 '07 Puma 90 |
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18th Oct 2015 4:31pm |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 981
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Thanks for the torque setting. Does anyone know the part number of the inner seal? It's the one that keeps the diff oil from mixing with the bearing grease. In the diagram above it is item 9.
Merlin |
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20th Oct 2015 5:30pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6605 
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Part #9 is the RTC3511 / FTC4785 as mentioned above. (Bearing to outside world seal)
I think what you are after is FTC5268  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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20th Oct 2015 6:27pm |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 981
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Cheers
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20th Oct 2015 6:39pm |
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| aage Member Since: 26 Jul 2012 Location: Iceland Posts: 44  
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You must remember to HEAT them up with a torch before unscrewing them, then the glue ( whatever its name ) will soften up and they wont brake during the extraction process. I watched my friend brake 2 on his car and they where really stuck and stiff all the way out. I heated mine up before unscrewing and NO PROBLEM at all, came out with ease. We bought our cars at the same time and they had about the same KM on the clock. http://www.defender2.net/gallery/index.php?cat=13451
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20th Oct 2015 9:22pm |
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| brayn Member Since: 28 Dec 2013 Location: Switzerland Posts: 8
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Evening all,
Just wanted to thank everyone for the help. Finished the job on the weekend employing the tricks you all imparted with me. I ended up changing discs, pads, bearings, one hub and one stub. The heat trick worked a treat on the non broken side (for the disc replacement, although my blow torch thing is a cheapo one and so it was a bit like a flame thrower at times  ), as did the drive flange seal application device... Hehe.
I've done 200km and no strange noise or adverse effects it seems. I'm not 100% convinced I got the pre-load right... (Perhaps I'm a worrier) I mean I followed the instructions and all... Just no real means of feed back so to speak... That said the wheel is still attached and there's no play, so I figure it should be good. I could rotate the hub, wouldn't say it moved 'freely' but it wasn't fighting back either... Anyway, just wanted to show my appreciation... Cheers all! |
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28th Oct 2015 3:50pm |
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