 | Home > Td5 > To waxoyl, or not to waxoyl . . . |
 
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069  
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hi Green Machine - welcome to the forum.
There's lots of info on the forum about waxoyling.. some love it some hate the stuff. Personally, I like it, it can save you lots of £ in the future but if you work under your truck it gets messy ! I have always waxoyled my trucks myself... here's what i do.. 1. buy a 50litre compressor and a wayoyl airspray gun (the name escapes me at the moment but it's a silver cannister jobbie that fits onto the end of the compressor) 2. buy some wayoyl - 10-15 litres is enough 3. go to your local lorry depot, with some money and talk nicely to the man who cleans the lorrys with the stream cleaner and ask him to clean your truck. 4 take your truck for a nice long drive then put it away in the garage (or carport) 5. let it dry out for a few days 6. buy a tarp and lay it out, overalls on and get messy! 7. let it dry for 12-24 hours 8. have a good look around the forums for other areas that need to be oyled ... bulkhead, inside doors etc. There is a good post by "miserableoldgit" with more details. Probably best to wait for warmer weather, just make sure you wash off the salt each week until you do it. you need a bit of space, there are lots of independents doing it too but don't believe all you read in some of the adverts- having said that, rustmaster have a great reputation. at some point in the future you will need to talk to the steam cleaning man again and get the waxoyl removed and new stuff applied.. |
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26th Nov 2010 8:47pm |
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| 110SEB Member Since: 29 Jan 2009 Location: Essex, England Posts: 1444  
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My view is to Waxoyl or any other reputable brand. I'd suggest cleaning your underside as best you can and let someone else do it. It will save time, energy, ruined clothes, stained drive, grazed knuckles and will protect your chassis from winter salt.
Make sure whoever does it steam cleans the chassis. Foley Specialist vehicles did mine. They charged me about £200 i think. They steam cleaned it, let it dry and pumped loads of some wax product, Shutz (i can't exactly remember, except to say that i knew it was a good alternative to Waxoyl) and gave it back to me by 4pm. All done. It can do your Defender no harm and will protect it from the rust worm for a good few years. Welcome to the forum. Try doing a search for Waxoyl with the search facility of the forum. Have a look here: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic1685.h...p;start=15  |
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26th Nov 2010 9:57pm |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226 
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Thanks for the replies. I think it's definitely going on the 'to do' list once the weather warms up a bit (could be waiting a while for that!). In the meantime I'll just do the best I can to keep it reasonably clean. I think I will take it to someone who has the facilities to do the job properly and can give it a thorough clean and prep. before treating it - I think I would probably run out of enthusiasm part way through and end up rushing it.
Once it has been treated, does the underseal remain sticky? Or does it dry? I'm thinking mainly in terms of keeping it looking good - do you just hose it off to keep it clean? Or does stuff stick into the coating? I read a couple of posts about people finding that what started out as a really smart, black, chassis after the waxoyl treatment quickly turned into a bit of a mess as road grime and muck glued itself to the waxoyl and became very difficult to get rid of. I suppose something like Before n After's Kleentect (or something similar) is the only way to keep it spotless underneath? Thanks for the advice! |
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30th Nov 2010 6:27pm |
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| kzycnn Member Since: 24 Apr 2009 Location: Northumberland Posts: 276 
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Hi
I would confirm that it is worthwhile getting your Defender waxoyled. I can also confirm that it will eventually dry and leave you with a firm surface that you can easily clean. I had my Discovery 2 done by Before'n'After. This was done in the warm weather and took a fair bit of time to thoroughly dry - chassis was fine, 'internals' which use a 'lighter' mix dripped on to the drive (and clothing!!) for a good couple of weeks. Kleentect is much more expensive and should be easier to keep it spotless underneath but waxoyl should do the job you want. I'd also recommend getting it done by someone who has the facilities - for the reasons already outlined. I did an old Series 111 some time ago but, when it came to getting my disco done, it was outsourced!!! My Defender is waxoyled and was done by a LR 'specialist' by the previous owner. The standard of work and extent of cover is nowhere near as good as what Before'n'After did on my disco and will need to be re-applied fairly soon. I will no doubt book this into before'n'After..... Tony |
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13th Dec 2010 1:44pm |
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| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130 
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I second this motion. It can be viewed as a difficult job, but it really isn't. Just very, very messy. Get yourself a tarp as BpMan says and some overalls. Make sure you get a Lance Spray gun (sealey do one, it's called an underbody spray gun and has a soft rubber extension that can be poked in to the chassis and spray around) you'll need a compressor to use that though. Also, it pays to get your Landy steam cleaned, then gently knock any surface rust or crusty bits off with a wire brush. We washed our Landy twice with our own power washer, but the amount of junk that comes off when steam cleaned is amazing. Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it! Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
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13th Dec 2010 10:56pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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I used Rustmaster as the process in my view is best done by people with the correct savvy and equipment! The outlay for your own equipment is a waste if you only use it once every few years! I got a garage full of five minute gizmos! The thread entitled 'to waxoyl, or not to waxoyl' surely the answer is obvious??? Any protection is better than none at all, even if applied liberally and slapdash with a mop and bucket by a three year old whatever the time of year or weather! Once sealed it goes rock hard, Rustmaster Hatfield even had their office door handle sprayed in the stuff as an example!!!
 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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14th Dec 2010 4:33pm |
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| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130
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Out of interest, How much does Rustmaster charge per application? Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it! Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
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19th Dec 2010 7:08pm |
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| johnszs Member Since: 16 Aug 2010 Location: Hereford Posts: 459 
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i had mine done last month at before n after it cost £540, i am very pleased with the covering under the car but i wasnt 100% happy with having waxoil inside the 90 on the carpets, door cards and over the windows. If anyone is intrested whitespirts removes waxoil, but make sure you throughly wash after, so it doesnt damage the plastics/paint. 2004 TD5 Defender 90 xs station wagon
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19th Dec 2010 7:49pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Depends on the vehicle and how hard you negotiate, mention the Forum and they will give you a discount - ballpark £440 for a 90 paid last June!!! If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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19th Dec 2010 9:31pm |
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| party monkey Member Since: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Oxon. Posts: 1311  
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Just had my 110 waxoyled by Rustmaster this month.
Cost was £455+VAT (so £546). This included a 12.5% discount by mentioning this forum
In complete agreement with K9F - they did a much better job than I could ever hope to do and in fact, it was worth the money not to spend hours crawling around the underneath of the landy getting filthy. 
90's should be cheaper given less cleaning/waxoyling but afraid I don't know by how much Jon - 110 td5 [sold]. Currently Defenderless. |
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19th Jan 2011 1:17pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5035 
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Definately Waxoyl and do it yourself.
Set some time, get the kit - its not that hard, if you have a compressor you can spray through that and with a brush etc you can apply with little mess!! Top tip (that many people miss). Waxoyl can go anywhere - but really aim for it to be internal and out of the way sections only For lower/high impact sections use Underbody seal (with waxoyl already in it)...this is the stuff for best results. Mike |
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19th Jan 2011 1:49pm |
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| party monkey Member Since: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Oxon. Posts: 1311
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Thanks Mike - very valid points and must admit, I have a compressor and normally I'll find the time to save a chunk of cash. This time around though, just didn't have the time so paid somebody else to do it (lazy get I know ). And I still think they'd do a better job than me. Jon - 110 td5 [sold]. Currently Defenderless. |
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19th Jan 2011 1:55pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5035
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Ive paid to have the disco topped up..nothing wrong with that if you have the money
I get into waxoyling when im doing our cars! Mike |
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19th Jan 2011 2:00pm |
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| Setok Member Since: 16 Jan 2009 Location: Helsinki Posts: 422 
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Is there any real benefits to stuff like this, instead of painting it with POR-15 or similar when surface rust appears? I know one guy over here in Finland reckoned that with gooey underspray on a classic type car there are risks:
You won't see if something is happening. It could rust away for ages under the goo and be totally knackered, even though it looks sound. As the goo is not paint, you might end up with pockets where water can ease its way in and start doing some serious damage, as the goo will not allow it to dry off either. |
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19th Jan 2011 5:17pm |
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