 | Home > Td5 > Need help... |
 
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10381  
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Injector harness, if it's 'hiccuping?
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27th Sep 2015 6:26pm |
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| chinnus Member Since: 24 Aug 2012 Location: UK Posts: 119 
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What are the faults codes if any?
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30th Sep 2015 9:55am |
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| Derrickthedefender Member Since: 28 Jan 2014 Location: South Posts: 294 
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Injector harness, I will check that when I am back, I am away until next week... I don't have a fault code reader, is it worth going to a garage to have it checked. A Defender... Mans best friend, never judges, trustworthy (most of the time), go anywhere, do anything, looks the business, and mans biggest money pit!!!
Yes the name for my 90 is Derrick! |
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1st Oct 2015 6:50am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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Morning Derrick,
Not yet worth a garage trip. There is a well known fault of oil ingress into the injector loom on TD5s. This can manifest itself in numerous running and starting issues. For the amount of time it would take it may be worth a look perhaps? The second link relates to the sealing of the loom if this indeed your cause. Good luck! 
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic36911....ector+loom http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic37090.html?highlight=oil+loom If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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1st Oct 2015 6:55am |
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| Alien Member Since: 18 Jan 2015 Location: Bacchus Marsh Posts: 230 
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G'day,
Can you give us more details on "the engine has taken its time to turn over when starting both warm and cold." please. I could be miss reading things but I suspect you have heard a chirping like a universal joint? I've found there are 3 causes of a similar sounding chirp. 1- universal joint, particularly as you load/unload the drive train. 2- broken exhaust manifold stud, usually at either end so causes a chirping when under load. 3- serpentine belt idler pullies. If it's occasionally slow to crank (turning over slowly) I'd look at the idler pullies. It is not unusual for one to seize, this then burns the belt until it destroys itself. Usually when this is happening the alt light is on as it's not turning,power steering stops too (with the water pump off the back of it) so stiff steering also. Unfortunately the harmonic doesn't like the shock when this happens and breaks the internal rubber. It can be an expensive outcome so I changed the idlers as a service item. Cheers, Kyle. |
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1st Oct 2015 10:02am |
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| Derrickthedefender Member Since: 28 Jan 2014 Location: South Posts: 294
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Okay now I'm back I have got an update.
I have changed the injector harness and it started and ran for a bit, now it has cut out completely again, I have tried resetting the ecu, and it works a couple of times.. There is a load buzzing from the relay which I think is the fuel pump relay, it is one of the two yellow relays by the ecu, I don't know for sure what they are. There is no oil on the ecu connections... Any ideas?? A Defender... Mans best friend, never judges, trustworthy (most of the time), go anywhere, do anything, looks the business, and mans biggest money pit!!! Yes the name for my 90 is Derrick! |
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9th Oct 2015 6:07pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
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Clean all the terminals and crimp up too for all the yellow relays and refit them. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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9th Oct 2015 6:10pm |
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| Derrickthedefender Member Since: 28 Jan 2014 Location: South Posts: 294
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Are all the yellow relays the same? Where would I find s replacement? When you say crimp up? What do you mean?
Thank you for your reply A Defender... Mans best friend, never judges, trustworthy (most of the time), go anywhere, do anything, looks the business, and mans biggest money pit!!! Yes the name for my 90 is Derrick! |
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9th Oct 2015 6:20pm |
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| Derrickthedefender Member Since: 28 Jan 2014 Location: South Posts: 294
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Also when it was running and then hiccuping, the temperature gauge would fluctuate lots and quickly... A Defender... Mans best friend, never judges, trustworthy (most of the time), go anywhere, do anything, looks the business, and mans biggest money pit!!!
Yes the name for my 90 is Derrick! |
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9th Oct 2015 6:25pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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New and old harness? Have you checked to see if you had oil ingress in the old injector loom? If there was evidence you may need to check the ECU to make sure it hasn't migrated in there too and clean it out. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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9th Oct 2015 7:19pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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The terminals that the relay plugs into need crimping/squashing tighter so they are a tighter fit and the terminals need a good clean too. I've read somewhere on here that temp gauge fluctuation can be a symptom of poor relay connections. Ray My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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9th Oct 2015 9:09pm |
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| Derrickthedefender Member Since: 28 Jan 2014 Location: South Posts: 294
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Thanks guys, I'll have look tomorrow, is it easy enough to open the Eco to have a look for oil ingress?
Then I will look to crimp the connectors, again I am assuming I can open up the connectors to the openings relatively easily...? Hopefully this will help it start!? A Defender... Mans best friend, never judges, trustworthy (most of the time), go anywhere, do anything, looks the business, and mans biggest money pit!!! Yes the name for my 90 is Derrick! |
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9th Oct 2015 9:21pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 
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Hi Ben, I would just guage the ECU from the socket, I did open mine last year as I was a little concerned that the amount of oil that was in the plug. The seal around the box is quite robust and it does take some prising apart, when it did come apart there was no trace of any contamination inside whatsoever and LR must have had a brainwave when the designed the socket . The pins you see from the outside have quite a circuit to travel before they actually get to the circuit board, they rise up and enter the box near the top, pass through then drop, then they go up to the pcb. For any oil to track to the board it has to defy gravity, pass through some goodish insulation to get inside.
After seeing what lengths LR have gone to I wouldn't be too worried As to the spade connectors on the relays, just look and feel that the wires feel secure to the connectors and you can give the female ends a slight squeeze so when you slide them back on the spade on the relay it is a positive, stiff connection. |
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9th Oct 2015 9:40pm |
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| Derrickthedefender Member Since: 28 Jan 2014 Location: South Posts: 294
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Thanks John, and good to hear from you again!, when I put the new injector harness on, there was a little oil on the connections, does this need cleaning out? A Defender... Mans best friend, never judges, trustworthy (most of the time), go anywhere, do anything, looks the business, and mans biggest money pit!!!
Yes the name for my 90 is Derrick! |
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10th Oct 2015 9:11am |
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