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couplands



Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
MOT: Cross member corrosion..?
My TD5 has started to suffer a small amount of corrosion on the rear face of the cross member and a hole has appeared.

Is this likely to be an MOT failure..?

cheers

simon
Post #459517 1st Oct 2015 11:04am
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jimbob7



Member Since: 06 Jul 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 2055

A hole is a failure,Won't cost more than £20 to get a plate welded over "a small hole". Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
Post #459531 1st Oct 2015 11:47am
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couplands



Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
Thanks, here's the "small hole"...


Click image to enlarge
Post #459532 1st Oct 2015 11:55am
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Mean Green



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: South Ayrshire
Posts: 280

Scotland 
Rub down the surrounding area and repaint it, use a hole saw the same size at the other factory holes in the cross member and drill it out to look like is has always been there.
Post #459556 1st Oct 2015 1:19pm
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GREENI



Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10378

United Kingdom 
A sticker would do the trick Laughing

Or...the ultimate sin...cover it with chequer plate Neutral
Post #459558 1st Oct 2015 1:34pm
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couplands



Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
Mean Green wrote:
Rub down the surrounding area and repaint it, use a hole saw the same size at the other factory holes in the cross member and drill it out to look like is has always been there.


I had actually thought of something like that.... : :

It's a real bummer as I use Dinitrol and ACF50 on the cross member plus a good hose down when I've been laneing and this is the only bit that's got any rust. I even contemplated getting a Blacksheep cross member fitted, but that seems OTT for such a small hole.

Cheers

Simon
Post #459561 1st Oct 2015 1:45pm
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Dpgdefenders



Member Since: 11 Nov 2014
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 9

Bet it's not that size in 6 months Big Cry
Post #459650 1st Oct 2015 7:04pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I would mask off, strip it back and get an idea exactly how bad it is and then address any damage and respray. Bit like this from another thread! Thumbs Up

davidwhittaker wrote:
Been a busy time recently: lots of car work, gold DofE in the lakes, A2 results this morning etc so heres my first update in a while:

- First bit: Sort out rear crossmember. Sanded lightly, primed and sprayed with a nice few coats of gloss black.

Looked like this before

Click image to enlarge


Masked off

Click image to enlarge


After spraying

Click image to enlarge


End Result (v Pleased!)

Click image to enlarge


Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green  If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #459654 1st Oct 2015 7:15pm
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couplands



Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
^^^ Yeah, already done that a few times in its life. But it was only surface rust then and as I said I'd sprayed Dinitrol and ACF50 all in/over it.

What I'm worried about is how far its spread and if I'd be better to get a replacement cross member. More investigation needed.

cheers

simon
Post #459669 1st Oct 2015 7:48pm
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Disco_Mikey



Member Since: 16 Nov 2014
Location: Dundee
Posts: 531

Scotland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Keswick Green
Still a good few years in that crossmember yet Thumbs Up
Post #459686 1st Oct 2015 8:26pm
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Birdy



Member Since: 07 Oct 2011
Location: Côte d'Azur
Posts: 863

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
“better to get a replacement cross member”

There'll be other places on your chassis equally bad or worse, simply inaccessible or invisible. Bodge/weld the crossmember for as many years as your truck will pass its MOT without a fail for structure, start saving now for a new chassis, to go the whole hog when the inevitable happens.

Peter

Edited to add: DON'T make the same mistake as me. After my TD5's chassis had been welded up as many times as it would take and the MOT guy said “Enough is enough”, rather than bite the bullet and lash out four or five grand for a re-chassis, I flogged it and put the cash towards a brand-new 2.4.

Big mistake, should've stuck with the tried and tested TD5 which was like I can see yours is, a bit of a work-horse.
Post #459836 2nd Oct 2015 2:08pm
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couplands



Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
^^^this is a bit of my dilemma. I was thinking of getting a newer truck anyway, but then my 14 year old TD5 has only done 36k miles and is really very nice. Don't want to let it go.

Need to think hard about it.

Cheers

Simon
Post #459860 2nd Oct 2015 4:24pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17311

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
You'd be hard put to find an equivalent vehicle, if it was mine I'd keep it and when the time comes put it on a galvanised chassis.
Post #459907 2nd Oct 2015 6:37pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3347

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
I think the general consensus is to keep what you know and love.

I am finding this now with Miss Shaggydogs Td5, all the jobs and little issues I had fixed with my 200Tdi are now back and need to be done again. Doesn't sound like much but its another load of security fittings, another pair of Wipac Crystals, another load of door hinge repairs.

I had a pair of chassis holes like that when I got my 200Tdi, I ignored it until the Mot man flagged it as a fail due to it being within 30cm of a towbar mount (and rightly so!)

At the time I was at university and poor so I did the repair myself.


Click image to enlarge

What lies behind a 50p piece size hole. Looking for good metal is difficult sometimes Shocked


Click image to enlarge

New Metal


Click image to enlarge

Learning to weld


Click image to enlarge

Job Done.

This worked for 2 years until the rot came back in a different area and I decided to replace the rear cross member back to the spring mounts. This cost about £350 if my memory serves me correctly and her chassis should now be good for another 5 years at least. Put aside £100 a month for 5 years and you have enough for a galv chassis and someone else to do the swap for you and a packet of hobnobs.

I have been in your boots when it comes to thinking stick with what you know or go for something new and I would hand on heart say stick with what you know and make it your own.

Then buy a new one along side it Razz

Just my 2p worth Thumbs Up Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #459965 2nd Oct 2015 9:31pm
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couplands



Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
Just been looking at cross members. Any recommendations..?

Ive seen this one.. http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/en/ui...&stp=s

cheers

simon
Post #460454 4th Oct 2015 7:34pm
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