 | Home > My Defender > My new (to me) Defender 90 Puma |
 
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2019  
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A present arrived first thing
My spare sawtooth and new BFG AT KO2 pattern tyre. Looks nicely aggressive on the sidewall compared to the old version. Not sure if I want the White lettering showing yet. Trouble is, I like the look of these so much I want a full set! 
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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23rd Sep 2015 9:38am |
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| AndyTunn Member Since: 10 Jan 2015 Location: Auckland Posts: 313  
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That does look rugged - I can see why you want a full set! What size tyre is that? It looks different to the one on the car but that could just be the photo of course.
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23rd Sep 2015 9:53am |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2019
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Its just the perspective as it's sitting in front of the car.
They are all 265/75/16 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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23rd Sep 2015 10:08am |
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| YOLO110 Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK Posts: 1640 
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That sidewall is now virtually all tread! No wonder it looks so big!
Cool too... 
I can see why you love them. Personally, I prefer the practical 'quiet running' of the Continental Cross A/T... even with 50:50 on:off road  YOLO... You Only Live Once... |
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23rd Sep 2015 10:11am |
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| fathaggis Member Since: 31 May 2015 Location: taynuilt Posts: 385 
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tyre looks great
get the set  |
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23rd Sep 2015 10:23am |
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| Cake Member Since: 10 Jun 2015 Location: Essex Posts: 277
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Your car looks fantastic, I remember seeing it when you first got it and was very jealous as I was in the market too at the time (only just got mine!).
Were the sawtooths a straight swap for the boosts tyres? I remember seeing it somewhere but but search isn't helping. Also with the rear badge don't new ones fit inside te plastic capping? Make sure you keep hold of it! |
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23rd Sep 2015 5:46pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2019
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Another present in the post.
As I want to have my spare sawtooth and new BFG AT KO2 on the back door I want to prevent it being pinched. So, it's going to have 3 Locking wheel nuts and this lovely lock. Click image to enlarge 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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26th Sep 2015 11:15am |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2019
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Well I had my new set of locking wheel nuts arrive. These will be used in place of standard nuts for the spare wheel as it seems it can't be secure enough. I'm going to put all three on, plus the new lock above.
The new 2015MY oval badge is nice, I wanted black and silver and ordered this by mistake but oddly it was half the price. He background colour is a dark metallic green and looks nicer than the stock oval. My rear end is looking much nicer!  2016 D4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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1st Oct 2015 7:00am |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2019
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Time for Dinitrol!
OK, this is not a quick job to do, I spent an entire weekend doing it (not inc the prep) and having done it with Waxoyl on my TD5 I knew some of the pain I'd have to endure. This time I wanted to do it properly. Timing was crucial. I had pressure washed every nook and cranny, flushed it out and air blasted all the chassis and it had been able to dry thoroughly for 2 weeks. We had a dry weekend so I knew it was time to get on with it. Here's the kit I bought to do it: Dinitrol kit from Rejel (compressor version) A can of ACF-50 throwaway coveralls x 2 disposable latex gloves full face protection Breathing masks shower cap (you don't want this stuff in your hair) You'll also need: 4 x Axle stands - I bought another pair of 3 tonne ones from Halfords for £17.50 and they're great A tarp and/or plastic sheeting (I had an old tarp and also put thick polythene from a mattress that was delivered) plastic bags Tin foil Masking tape Masking paper Paper towels White spritis A decent jack A compressor (I got mine from Aldi) So, here's how to do it at home (and apologies to Zag as I'm sure you do a much more thorough job). First I removed the wheels and jacked it onto the axle stands after laying out the plastic sheeting - TRUST ME - you will need this. Click image to enlarge Once up in the air I crawled underneath and poked around with a screwdriver and low and behold, found even MORE dried mud up inside the door pillar area, so cleaned this out. I half filled a bucket with all the rubbish I got out of it again. More blowing out with the air gun. Click image to enlarge Whilst the wheels were off I turned the steering full lock each way so that I could take the opportunity to top up the swivels with one shot grease. Surprisingly each one took three quarters of a pouch. It's an easy job with a 1/2" socket. I advise you to check yours. Here you can see the filler plug in plain view. Click image to enlarge Next I started masking the car up. I didn't do this last time, but having watched a video on Youtube on how the Pro's do it, I decided to give it a whirl and am VERY thankful I did. I put masking paper along the paintwork and also wrapped the axle stands, brake discs, flexible brake pipes, exhaust system and side steps. I am so pleased I made this effort. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge First I sprayed any signs of surface rust with the rust converter spray in the kit. The fine mist of the Dinitrol cavity wax gets everywhere, so the masking was worth it. The instructions say to prime the outer chassis with this stuff first as it aids adhesion. You obviously also use this to spray inside the chassis box sections etc. I used the extension tube to get inside the bulkhead via the blanked wiper holes, door top hinges and the door switch hole inside the cabin, until it was dripping out of all the places you'd expect it to. Whilst the top hinges were undone I also ACF'd the captive nuts (which looked like new) and replaced the bolts with stainless steel ones (also sprayed in ACF50). Once the chassis is primed, you can apply the under chassis wax whilst still wet. This stuff needs 6PSI to spray properly and is nice and thick when it goes on, I coated everywhere in it, especially the areas that are prone to corrosion such as footwells, outriggers, rear X member etc. Axles also got a nice coating but steered clear of the propshaft to avoid balance issues. Click image to enlarge After doing the wax, I then used the stone chip on the wheel arch areas. The instructions say not to spray the stone chip over the wax or vice versa (so I didn't). In the front wheel arches there are numerous holes in the plastic moulding, so I blanked these in with aluminium tape prior to spraying, to avoid lots of overspray in the engine bay. I won't detail every single part and step I went through, but let's just say I was extremely thorough. The end results looks good and it doesn't stink like Waxoyl. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Top Tips: You cannot prepare enough - it seems a pain but is SO worth it. The more protection you wear the better, you will get filthy, throw away coveralls, gloves etc are going to save your workshop gear. The full face visor I got from Toolstation was great, as it doesn't fog up like goggles. The tarp on its own would have been useless as they have a weave, try calling a local bed supplier and asking if they have any mattress covers, the thickness is perfect. Put the axles stand inside a plastic bag or bin bag before setting them under the car, or they get waxed. Wrap the exhaust in foil front to back, its easy to do and effective, easy to remove. It's an easy enough job to do yourself at home on the driveway, but you need to do your prep work. The end result though is the personal satisfaction and peace of mind that the underside is fully protected for years and years to come. Shame no one else gets to see the end result! 2016 D4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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4th Oct 2015 8:59pm |
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| fathaggis Member Since: 31 May 2015 Location: taynuilt Posts: 385
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great stuff .... when do you want me to drop mine off for the same treatment
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4th Oct 2015 10:15pm |
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| Pickles Member Since: 26 May 2013 Location: Melbourne Posts: 3772 
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RRUK, TOP job on your undercarriage mate, and especially with your preparation/masking, and,.......doing it in the open. Obviously you were lucky with the weather.
Very methodical, Pickles. |
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4th Oct 2015 10:26pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2019
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Thanks Pickles, I like to be thorough and pay attention to the detail, I've never been a bodge-it merchant.
2016 D4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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6th Oct 2015 9:34am |
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| steve E Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Tenby Posts: 2073 
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Really enjoyable thread.
Love your eye for detail. Impressive stuff |
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6th Oct 2015 9:49am |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3720
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That really looks great,
It just would worry be being under the LR with 4 axel stands.. when we used to do this with old mini's we used a friends 'pit' roughly in bits how much would this cost to do? assuming I have the use of a compressor? Thanks it looks great !!! |
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6th Oct 2015 1:52pm |
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