 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Adaptor Shaft! |
 
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127   
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A good 3/4" air gun will whiz that off.
 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"
Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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21st Sep 2015 9:12am |
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| Rickydodah Member Since: 14 Jul 2014 Location: East Sussex Posts: 1091 |
When mine was changed a large thick washer was welded on the end of the coupling and a nut welded to that. The threaded end of a large, very large slide hammer was screwed into the nut.
I started with nothing and still have most of it left! |
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21st Sep 2015 9:38am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17386 
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The 'official' procedure requires the use of a holding tool which bolts onto the back of the gearbox and engages the two slots in the periphery of the female part to stop it rotating. A windy gun may work, but (and this is just my view) I am a little uneasy at the thought of the reaction to the windy gun being taken by the gearbox, clutch and crankshaft.
A further issue which you may have if not using the proper tool is holding the part when torquing the retaining setscrew down after fitting the new part. Once the setscrew is removed, the female part of the coupling may just slide off, but more often you'll need to use a puller. The manual says that the replacement part should be heated to expand it slightly prior to fitting, but again you may find that this is not necessary (if I recall correctly the manual says heat to 100 Celsius, so not difficult to do if you have to). The holding tool is 308-701 "Locking Fixture Output Flange" and is available from Bosch Automotive, though it is really difficult to buy from them if you're not trade (it took me an age to get an account set up)!. The tool looks likes this, and wouldn't actually be difficult to fabricate:-  |
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21st Sep 2015 9:43am |
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| alby Member Since: 25 Dec 2014 Location: The Shire Posts: 159 
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I spent yesterday doing the exact same job on a friends Puma 110 dcpu.
we split the transfer box and gearbox to change the oil seal and do the adaptor shaft at the same time. Like the OP it was good we did, as the adaptor shaft and cup were well tired. Had already lost three splines which had gone completely. The screw wasn't that tight, didn't need to use a windy gun, just a socket and breaker bar and undid the screw with the box in 6th. the female coupling was a right pain to get off of the gearbox shaft, it was very very tight. used a bearing puller to remove it. Have found that the new female part won't go back on the end of the gearbox now either. We heated it to 100, no joy, then to 120-130 degC and it still would not go on. re-checked the splines with a magnifier for damage and they're ok and spotless clean. We reheated the coupling and got it to go on with persuasion from a soft faced hammer. got it to within the last 10mm and it stuck (it was cool by this time though) Attempted to gently heat it but was worried about the oil seal on the gearbox. Attempted to use the old screw to draw it on, but was only two to three turns of thread inside the shaft so was very wary of beasting it and it still didn't budge. in the end we drew the coupling back off with the pullers and called it a day as it was dark, late and we were tired and fed up so gave up for the day. going to give it another go this evening. |
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21st Sep 2015 12:28pm |
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| Kevzeboy Member Since: 19 Jul 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 83 
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Job sorted!
Key points: The big nut came of by popping her in reverse and a good bat with a windy gun to set her free. Female par of the adaptor shaft came off with a good set of hydraulic pullers. After the output seal was changed; I hot the new female part of the shaft on by greasing the end slightly, it had been sat on top of the combi boiler for a few days and was nice a warm, not hot. It went a third on, to get her home, I cleaned the old male part of the shaft and use it as a knocking tool. It worked a treat! I only wish getting the transfer box back one was as simple. I am glad I did it. It has taken all of the slop out of the transmission and I have fixed an oil leak too! A small fortune saved and we have averted a brake down, by incorporating it in to her annual service! Please feel fr to get in touch if you would like to know any more about how to do the job! Kevin |
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28th Sep 2015 8:47pm |
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| philbert Member Since: 18 Sep 2015 Location: Falkirk Posts: 44 
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going to tackle this job Thursday - Friday is there a pictorial anywhere?
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5th Oct 2015 8:37pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127
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There was...but all my photos disappeared!
 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"
Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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5th Oct 2015 8:42pm |
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| theorangebandit Member Since: 03 Jun 2013 Location: Stowmarket Posts: 862 |
Fitted my new clutch a few months ago now and really wanted to fit the Ashcroft shaft at the same time but I was too poor and that hasn't changed yet either. Needs doing though its quite loose. I greased and refitted. Quite jealous of you lot doing yours 😞
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5th Oct 2015 8:46pm |
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| philbert Member Since: 18 Sep 2015 Location: Falkirk Posts: 44
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yes I noticed all the pics were missing .
just thought id ask in case there is another pictorial available. |
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5th Oct 2015 9:23pm |
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| Forestman1 Member Since: 16 Apr 2015 Location: Sverige Posts: 13  
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Going to change my output shaft and wondering if we need to change both the oil seals on each side:
Transfer box input shaft oil seal: ICV100000 and Gearbox output oil seal LR0058800 ? We are also a bit worried up here about doing the job without the flange drive holding tool. Defender 110 SW S, 2011, Galway Green |
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8th Nov 2016 4:23pm |
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| Forestman1 Member Since: 16 Apr 2015 Location: Sverige Posts: 13
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BEWARE OF CRACKED SPACER ON OUTPUT SHAFT CENTER BOLT!
I started the job today with replacing my output shaft with the Ashcroft MT82 kit. No problems until we mounted the center bolt back into the new flange. At 133 Ft Lbs the spacer cracked all around the bolt. (picture) When we pulled the spacer apart we could see that those cracks were old and must have been there for a longer time. The Defender had this output shaft failure once before at 20000 km and maybe the bolt was damaged already at that time during the mounting. (Made by LandRover, Sweden) Now we solved this situation by putting in another spacer leaving enough grip for the bolt. (We DID check that the flange was in the correct position heated to 100 C and cautiously knocked in place.) Maybe it is a good thing to order a new center bolt too when replacing our output shafts!! The replacing job is not done yet and will continue tomorrow. Defender 110 SW S, 2011, Galway Green |
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20th Nov 2016 4:04pm |
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| tuesdayfox Member Since: 23 Jun 2013 Location: Sydney,OZ Posts: 129 
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Without the special tool, how would you guys torque the nut to the correct spec?
Will put the gearbox in 6th suffice? And also which puller is good? Thanks |
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4th Oct 2017 9:35am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17386
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Although I know of people who have just put the box in gear, it is not a technique I would like to use (especially not if an ipact wrench is going to be used). It is a very expensive mistake - far more expensive than the right tool - if it breaks. It would, incidentally, hold better in a low gear than a high gear, you're less likely just to spin the engine.
I've heard of people using large Stillsons to hold the 'cup', I've heard of people welding things to the 'cup' to hold it, and whilst these might be OK to remove a faulty one I wouldn't do either to a new one. It is not especially difficult to fabricate something to do the job of the right tool if you can't get hold of the genuine thing.
I wuldn't mind betting that when the part was last changed, the bolt and spacer/washer was used to force the 'cup' onto the gearbox spigot without the 'cup' being preheated, and the spacer/washer cracked as a result and has probably been broken ever since. |
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4th Oct 2017 9:51am |
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