 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > running in |
 
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| Venomator Member Since: 25 Aug 2014 Location: Peterborough Posts: 2087  
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Good heavens, who else remembers seeing that sticker on new cars...
I am not sure new motors actually require running in, per se... 
But I have always taken it rather easy for the first 1,000 miles and eased up the workload over the next couple... 
That is just me though, but it would make sense to give a new truck at least 500 to 1,000 miles to settle before pulling that sort of weight... 
Others will, of course, disagree and say just get stuck in...  Rog...
The GREEN One... MY2016 Urban Truck Build Thread - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40548....al[/color] |
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4th Jul 2015 8:58am |
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| grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4785 
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The book says there is no "break in" period for a new defender. However I have run mine in anyway for the first 2000 miles, then had an oil and filter change. I drove the courtosey defender when mine was in the dealers which was very similar spec with near identical mileage. It obviously had been thrashed from new and was a much Noisier engine and not as smooth as mine. I would have thought you'd want to be gentle for the first 1000 miles realistically
2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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4th Jul 2015 8:59am |
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| PAT303 Member Since: 25 Feb 2013 Location: Australia Posts: 125  
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I ran mine in driving 1300km's back home in the outback from the city dealer,seemed to work. Pat
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4th Jul 2015 10:02am |
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| AndyS Member Since: 18 Aug 2012 Location: London Posts: 595 
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I've run in 13 new engines and take it really easy for the first 100 miles, relatively easy up to 500 miles then gradually increase the load on the engine, short periods at first and gradually longer as you get nearer 1000 miles. Do an oil/filter change at 1000 miles then you're good to go.
Really easy means feathering the throttle, making sure you're always in the right gear so the revs aren't too high or too low, be really kind to it. Relatively easy means not using full throttle but allowing the revs to go up but not right up. Then gradually introduce increased throttle and higher revs, for short periods at first then longer as the mileage goes up. All the while, make sure you vary the revs and the load on the engine, best not to stick to one specific setting. I think running in the engine like this gives you plenty of opportunity to get used to the new vehicle while doing the best for the engine itself. (Just realised the Defender is my 13th new vehicle - oooooh! ) |
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4th Jul 2015 2:36pm |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 
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^^^ Agree with AndrewS. Easy at first, then a full change of oils (engine & filter, transfer, gearbox & diffs). Also good to vary the loads...not all at constant speeds on the motorway, bit a variety of driving conditions, no laboring, and no sustained high revs.
Then increase the loadings after Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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4th Jul 2015 9:34pm |
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| cozz Member Since: 15 May 2013 Location: nottingham Posts: 535 |
meanwhile, in a parallel universe
1000's of tdci transits 2.2, are loaded up to max weight carrying capacity from day one, and USED as intended, by tradesmen, couriers etc, often doing a much higher annual milage than defenders and not "run in" I've had 3 transits (110, 140,140 hp) and never had any engine probs It is due to their reliability (and the fact i like landrovers) that I bought a puma (now waiting on a new one) |
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4th Jul 2015 10:31pm |
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| Rakthi Member Since: 30 Nov 2012 Location: Where the cats are Posts: 200 
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Thought it was not so much the engine than the rest of the drive train that needs a bit of TLC the first 1000 Kms or so.
Engine might be machined to 0.001 inch or better, but I doubt it the diffs, propshafts etc are finished to that level. |
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5th Jul 2015 12:31am |
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| Macpaul Member Since: 25 Mar 2013 Location: SW Surrey Posts: 439 
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By contrast, I've just fitted a new engine (Yanmar 1.3 diesel) to my sailing boat and the manual is very specific about running-in.
It says run at max rpm minus 400 for the first 50 hours and after the first 10 hours run flat out for 5 mins every 30 minutes. Also, only let the engine idle for very short periods and keep it under load. To me, this is completely counter-intuitive. Apparently this running-in is to allow the mating surfaces to get to a high enough sustained temperature physically to harden them in some way that (the manual says) hugely increases the life of the engine. Not a tdci obviously, or even a Land Rover but interesting I thought. 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop Now a 2013 110 USW too. |
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5th Jul 2015 6:29am |
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| YOLO110 Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK Posts: 1642
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Piston engined aircraft are 'run in' at WOT for the first 2 hours or so to really bed in the piston rings with the bores.
Nothing worse on a diesel to not load it up... glazed bores result with associated oil burning. This happens a lot on yacht diesel engines that tend to spend hours at ether the same 2,500 RPM or running unloaded just charging up batteries! I once had a yacht engine that was really difficult to start for this reason... I then had to use full throttle for 40 minutes, 3,600 RPM to plough into a huge Southerly Buster... never had a starting problem after that as the bores obviously got de-glazed! I agree however to take it easy for the first 1000 miles or so. I have done about 1,500 in mine now and it feels a LOT smoother and also looser than when I first drove it with 18 miles on the clock!  YOLO... You Only Live Once... |
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5th Jul 2015 8:52am |
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| machine1963 Member Since: 01 Jun 2015 Location: oldham Posts: 61  
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Think I will put 500 miles on the clock before heavy trailer.
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5th Jul 2015 10:38am |
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| machine1963 Member Since: 01 Jun 2015 Location: oldham Posts: 61
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Or just drive it like a stole it.
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5th Jul 2015 10:40am |
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| grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4785
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To be honest I think it depends if you plan to keep it long term. If it's just a 3 year whilst in warranty ownership sort of thing then thrash away
Although I'm not sure the second owner would appreciate it lol 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon 1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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5th Jul 2015 10:48pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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One of our longest lived tractors was put straight on to a 3m power harrow (big for its day and the tractor) the day it arrived and was left doing that job for a couple of weeks. Just long days at constant steady load. Least trouble we've ever had with a tractor engine and everyone agrees it's because it was run in well. In its middle age it went on to a horrible job with lots of starting, stopping and idling but it still never had any issues with the engine at all. |
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6th Jul 2015 11:49am |
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| alby Member Since: 25 Dec 2014 Location: The Shire Posts: 159 
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I wouldn't worry about running in. Modern coatings on piston rings mean that engines don't need to be run in like they used to.
By running the engine at lower rpm and light loads for prolonged periods of time there is Reduced gas loading on the rings which means reduced ring sealing, so the piston rings never bed in properly. Remember, it is the gas pressure from combustion and to a certain degree compression that allows the rings to seal into the cylinder bores. Each piston ring does not in itself form a perfect seal between the piston and cylinder wall, but as a pack of them they do. If there is insufficient sealing, oil passes the rings which in turns leads to problems with glazed bores and higher oil consumption in later life. Just treat it with respect and don't labour the engine (ie too low a gear revving the nuts of it, or too high a gear where the things about to stall) for the first 1000miles and follow the manufacturers advice would be my advice. In your case towing a trailer will do no harm, indeed the extra work will probably do the engine good, however be careful of gear selection. |
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8th Jul 2015 4:35pm |
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