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rleslie

Member Since: 10 May 2012
Location: Ellon, Aberdeenshire
Posts: 128

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Epsom Green

Rear end rust issue. I need advice.

I'm looking for some help.

The back of my 2007 Puma 110 is looking rough...really rough. Since I have no plans on selling my beloved Landy I need to get it all fixed.

What is the bit called that has the 6 screws in it and all the holes? (I think its fibreglass?) Is that an expensive bit to replace? Just below the the holes and above the rear cross member there is a very rusty bit... Am I able to replace this also with out too much trouble? Or is it part of the floor?

Any advice to upgrade replacements would be appreciated so I don't have to do this again in the near future.

Cheers

Richard

/Users/richard/Desktop/IMG_1323.jpg

29th May 2015 2:11pm

rleslie

Member Since: 10 May 2012
Location: Ellon, Aberdeenshire
Posts: 128

Thats annoying, I can't even add the photo to the post.... its in my gallery.....

29th May 2015 2:18pm

ickle

Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1777

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White

Hells Teeth!

Have you been parking that on a salt water slip way?

29th May 2015 2:24pm

rleslie

Member Since: 10 May 2012
Location: Ellon, Aberdeenshire
Posts: 128

Click image to enlarge

The joys of Scottish winters, and salty roads for 5 months of the year.... Its not pretty!

29th May 2015 2:28pm

smb

Member Since: 15 Jan 2013
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 1232

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

Jesus!! And I thought my crossmember was bad

It is worthwhile every Defender of Series owner double checking all the nooks and crannies this year as some councils in light of previous criticism have been putting an unprecedented amount of salt on the roads this last Winter.

29th May 2015 2:38pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17353

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Re: Rear end rust issue. I need advice.

rleslie wrote:
... What is the bit called that has the 6 screws in it and all the holes? (I think its fibreglass?) ...

If you means the painted strip immediately below the rear door, this is part of the rear floor/rear body assembly and is not easy to replace. It is not fibreglass, it is alloy like the rest of the body.

The rusty bit you describe as being between it and the rear crossmember is actually part of the rear crossmember - the 6 screws in the first bit secure the rear body to the crossmember.

There is unfortunately no gentle way to break the news - you have some major repairs shaping up there.

29th May 2015 2:38pm

TJ101

Member Since: 30 May 2007
Location: Taunton Somerset
Posts: 3748

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red

Will agree, not a pretty sight !!

Think its a case of unbolting/screwing as much as you can, and see what you have left,,
As blackwolf,, a fair bit of work needs to be done,, sooner, rather thank later !! California F1, 75th 110 "Kermit", 50th Ann V8, 90 V8 Hybrid, 55 Series 1

Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK

29th May 2015 2:58pm

Happyoldgit

Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey

Out of interest what is the history of the vehicle? Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.

30th May 2015 4:27pm

mikeh501

Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1142

Heres my 4 point plan to fix your manky cross member. I think it will come up a treat with a bit of love.

1.) Unbolt everything from the crossmember like the step and tow hitch. Get them rust treated and painted up ready to put back on. Dinitrol RC900 rust converter primer and then topcoat with chassis black or something.

2.) Get a jet washer or better a steam cleaner and go to town on the whole back end especially the chassis and cross member.

3.) Once its all dried you can then set about the exterior of the cross member face. Strip what paints left, rust convert and primer it. Then top coat etc. You can remove those bolts which hold the cross member onto the body and replace with some stainless ones which will help down the line. The tub alloy portions will need some tlc. id start by properly cleaning all the gunk off and see whats left.

4.) Cross members rot inside out, so as bad as it looks its the inside which you need to protect most. You need to inject dinitrol ML3125 into all the interior box sections, then on the outside sections (but not the rear face) Dinitrol 4941 would be great. This stuff will make it all nice and black when looking through the wheel arches but most importantly will provide great protection next winter.

edit: just noticed your tub has holes in it where the bolts are! rust treatment wont fix that lol. if those are like that i dread to think what the rest of the vehicle is like underneath! good luck

30th May 2015 9:55pm

Crofter

Member Since: 19 Feb 2015
Location: Peterhead
Posts: 169

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Baltic Blue

Good question and answers its on my list to do this summer.

Thanks.

31st May 2015 12:28pm

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