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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
Engine hotter than normal
After playing in the mud over the long weekend, I noticed that the engine is running somewhat hotter the before, mainly when doing highway.
I have an ultragauge and while it's normally running at about 85C with the odd peak closer to 90C but hardly ever more. Now it's running at 95C with the odd peak near to 100C which is my alarm.

I have cleaned the radiators, so I don't think it is that. I did reduce it with about 5C doing that as before, going little over 80kmph, it tripped the 100C alarm.

I never got it to trip the alarm before, so there's still something that's not allowing it to cool properly.

What can it be? Any suggestions?
Post #424886 19th May 2015 7:58pm
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lohr500



Member Since: 14 Sep 2014
Location: Skipton
Posts: 1315

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
A long shot, but sump and block coated with baked on mud? Could that cause the engine to run 10 deg warmer?
Post #424906 19th May 2015 8:19pm
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
Cleaned it with the waterhose.
I believe both engine and radiator have never been so clean.

Could it be the the front little fan is not working an needed to cool it just that little extra? Anything else that could cause this?
Post #424910 19th May 2015 8:25pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
The front ele tric fan is for air con

I would check the rads again , there 3 deep so cleaning can be awkward, aircon rad then intercooler then cooling rad
Post #424915 19th May 2015 8:29pm
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
Guess I need to get them out then.
Tips 'n tricks? Howto's? Do I disconnect the hoses? Do I need cooling fluid? Etc???
Post #424920 19th May 2015 9:02pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
Dont think you need to remove them ( you would need air con degassing etc ) , but maybe remove the grill to help ( do it with engine cold )

i would maybe give them a socking a couple of times with a low pressure hose to soft any mud ( pressure washer may damage fins on rads )
spray directly in to rads to try to push water through the rads ( spray water in at same level to rads )

Them get down at eye level with rads with a torch to try to see through rads checking them you should be able to see light coming out in side engine bay ( engine off of course !)
Post #424957 20th May 2015 2:27am
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
That's oretty much what I did, except for the light. I just looked ix the water came through the other side...
Post #424962 20th May 2015 4:50am
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
I have looked in the manual and it seems quite straight forward to remove the radiator.
They mention that I need to make sure the holes are blanked.

However, they also mention to disconnect all hoses, but is the radiator not filled with cooling fluid? They never mention anything about draining it...

I still find it weird the radiator would be the reason as it's quite accessible from the back of it. I have hosed it through inch by inch with a hose and saw the water comming out between the radiator and the intercooler. It even went through the intercooler...
Post #425049 20th May 2015 9:55am
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tomdaprince



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: IJmuiden
Posts: 54

Netherlands 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
Hi Zone30,

The Rad is filled with coolant, there is about 7L in the whole system. You can either suck the fluid out through the expansion tank using a pump or just pull one of the lower hoses off and let it drain on the ground. As it takes G12 (pink) coolant it is not the most environmentally friendly option.

Taking the rad out is quite the undertaking and I recommend taking the bonnet catcher out first as then you can just pull the rad with intercooler attached upward. However you should be able to see quite well if it's clean enough or not. Just take the upper part of your tunnel off and inspect ir from there. If you take the grill off you are also able to see the lower part of the rad under the AC condenser and IC, that is usually the part getting clogged the first. It takes a lot of water to clean the whole thing and don't use a pressure washer! Just let water run through from the back forward for at least 20minutes and see if it goes all the way through. If it's clean and still runs at 95C it could be that the thermostat is busted.
Post #425096 20th May 2015 12:26pm
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
Thanks, now that's usefull info.
I have done just about everything you described, except for taking it appart which I am reluctant to do.

For now I will try to again to rinse it out a second time. Maybe with some cleaning solvent as residue dust over the entire radiator may still reduce its effectiveness. I will also use the suggestion of the light to see if everything is clear.

If that doesn't work, I prefer to replace the thermostat first before draining the whole system and removing the radiator.

fingers crossed then Thumbs Up
Post #425125 20th May 2015 2:35pm
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
Where's the "cooling system bleed screw" located?
Post #425184 20th May 2015 7:32pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
Proper place to drain coolant is on the fuel cooler pipes , bleed screw is on top of heater pipes by the heater fan box
Post #425186 20th May 2015 7:35pm
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
According to manual, drain at fuel cooler, but loosen bleeder screw as well. Probably to get the air in?
Won't opening the expansion reservoir have a similar effect? That is the highest point, no?
Post #425338 21st May 2015 2:59pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
simple answer , undo both
Post #425340 21st May 2015 3:32pm
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
Thx
Post #425351 21st May 2015 4:41pm
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