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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347   
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If its stainless and put in dry it may have galled up in which case it will never properly undo as it basically friction welds itself together - stainless is a horrible material for fittings. All our high pressure pipework and fittings are stainless at work and unless you lube them up with some blue goop you will never get them apart in one piece!
Do you know anyone with a die grinder or cut off wheel? It may be best way to do it and carefully slice the bolt through and then making sure not to drop the captive nut or bolt into the bulkhead try and pick them out, Alternatively try and drill the head but again stainless is a horrible material to work with so go carefully. Also be careful of the bulkhead, its only 2mm thick laminated steel and bends very easily! I had the other problem which was rusted seized nuts when I did my bulkhead repair so i can feel your pain! Good luck  Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter  |
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18th May 2015 12:22pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
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I can't remember off the top of my head but is there a hole under the trim on the inside of the pillar where you could get some small grips in to hold the nut while undoing the bolt? Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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18th May 2015 12:33pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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As Shaggy has said, the Stainless bolt is effectively welded to the Stainless nut, you will not get them apart.
Your only options are to drill out the head of the bolt - Stainless is harder than mild steel not softer, cut the hinge or cut the bolt. If you can grip the nut in some way you will need to shear the bolt off, it won't unscrew. We use a lot of Stainless fixings in my other business, horrible things ! |
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18th May 2015 1:13pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17414 
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I despise stainless fixings - the experience of drilling them all out of my Patriot rack to replace with proper fixings almost drove me round the bend. Nothing but trouble.
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18th May 2015 1:23pm |
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| Clemmo Member Since: 03 Aug 2012 Location: Mile Oak Posts: 1218 
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Been here before!!
Sheet of hardboard (0.5m sq..ish)with an 8mm slot in it to the centre.. Drop in down between hinge and body..slot down. Masking tape in place. Nylon/plastic/wood wedge behind hinge to hold in place..and hacksaw bolt through. ( may have to sacrifice wedge) Pretty straightforward really
Clemmo Make today a little better than yesterday but not so good as tomorrow.... Defender 90 HT............Pangea Green BMW X3 Msport............Carbon Black Mini Electric................Grey. (wow!) MGB Roadster……..........Vermillion 17k miles Honda Benly CD200....Maroon --------McLouis Fusio........7.4m of fun |
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18th May 2015 2:05pm |
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| Likeomg Member Since: 29 Jun 2012 Location: Lake District / Newcastle Posts: 2641
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very straight forward actually, pry bar on the top of the hinge, cloth behind not to mark paintwork and just went at it with a 5mm key in a drill, out in 30 seconds.
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18th May 2015 10:01pm |
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| Likeomg Member Since: 29 Jun 2012 Location: Lake District / Newcastle Posts: 2641
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next question is...
whats the best way to line the door up? |
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18th May 2015 10:02pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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Wind window down, shut door onto catch fully then fit hinges loosely. Get someone to hold the door so the gap to the pillars is level front and back and then tighten hinges. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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18th May 2015 10:17pm |
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