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dave's 110



Member Since: 11 Jun 2008
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 45

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Have found this site I Know it's not the new Puma but the switch's are the same http://www.reedx.net/landrover/mods/2002dash/part5/index.htm

Still trying to find the part number for the Aux 2 light switch Exclamation SO you can swap the front cover over Exclamation
Part number for the heated rear window is YUG 0004 70LNF Heated Rear Screen Switch

Dave
Post #4124 2nd Oct 2008 8:20pm
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one_iota



Member Since: 06 May 2008
Location: Sydney
Posts: 99

Australia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
I've just installed my driving lights and here is the rearranged console switching:




The driving light switch on the far right is part no YUG 000540LNF purchased from www.britishparts.co.uk.

I haven't worked out how to get the switch illumination and on-light to work but at least the driving light switching is working (pins 1 & 4). Mahn
'08 Defender 110
ex '95 Disco 300 Tdi
www.aulro.com
Post #4125 3rd Oct 2008 12:49am
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey



Right Razz I have the switch - more importantly i have the genuine connector Mr. Green before i look through my notes from the disco and get the get the multi-meter out.

Any 100% Sure on the pins ive got some conflicting views on the wiring

I have wired one in on the disco and it wasnt that hard to get the LED light in i seem to recall there are 2 earths and 1 live and one sidelight power Mike
Post #5274 4th Dec 2008 8:50pm
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PaulMc



Member Since: 17 Jan 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 499

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Arles Blue
one_iota wrote:
The driving light switch on the far right is part no YUG 000540LNF purchased from www.britishparts.co.uk.

I haven't worked out how to get the switch illumination and on-light to work but at least the driving light switching is working (pins 1 & 4).


That's because YUG000540LNF switches the earth from the accessory's relay and not the feed to it.

If you use it to switch across pins 1 & 4, it will work as a simple On/Off switch but, you won't get either the green illumination or orange 'tell-tale' light to work, as they are LEDs and require the switch to be wired-up as designed.

To help me understand how to wire up my auxiliary lamps, I sat down and drew a diagram showing how the switch is wired internally and then added a basic auxiliary light circuit to the diagram.

The trigger is shown as coming from the High Beam warning lamp, this is for Driving Lamps.

For Front Fog Lamps, this trigger would be taken from the Sidelights or Dipped Beam - depending on local lighting regulations.


Click image to enlarge



The proper Tyco/AMP Connector 347477-1 with 5 x crimp terminals is available from Dingocroft, their Pt No. ZZPLUG01 -

http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Elec...#aZZPLUG01




There's a lot more info here -

http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.p...546498#new


Paul.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green


Last edited by PaulMc on 2nd Dec 2009 6:09pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #6360 17th Jan 2009 10:38am
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
Quote:




There's a lot more info here -

http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.p...546498#new


Paul.


Or on my post here Thumbs Up http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic795.html


Its fitted and working... one comment - i havent my notes, but pins 1, 3 and 4 are linked...this is an earth contact switch Mike
Post #6367 17th Jan 2009 5:51pm
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PaulMc



Member Since: 17 Jan 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 499

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Arles Blue
mse wrote:

Or on my post here Thumbs Up http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic795.html


Its fitted and working... one comment - i havent my notes, but pins 1, 3 and 4 are linked...this is an earth contact switch


I never saw that thread Embarassed

You're correct, this switch is designed to switch a relay's coil to earth.
Pins 3 & 4 (which are commoned) are connected to pin 1 when the switch is in the ON position.

Here's a picture of the inside of the switch, which I've annotated to show how the contacts connect accross pins 1 & 4 when in the ON position -


Click image to enlarge



Looking at the circuit inside the switch -


Click image to enlarge



It would be easy to convert this switch to a conventional live switching ON/OFF switch by cutting the brass track between the two holes, as marked in red in this next picture -


Click image to enlarge



By cutting the track at this point, you separate pins 3 & 4

The revised circuit would be as follows -

Pin 1 - Incoming Live from Main Beam/Dipped Beam/Side Lights (as applicable)

Pin 2 - Live from Dash Illumination

Pin 3 - Switch Earth (for indicator LEDs)

Pin 4 - Switched Live output to Accessory Relay

Pin 5 - Live in from Pin 4 (for Orange 'tell-tale' LED)


You could link pins 4 & 5 inside the switch while you had it apart, by soldering a link across the brass tracks but I would just crimp an extra short length of cable into Pin 4 and loop it round into Pin 5 on the connector.

You will still need to use an accessory relay with this switch modified in this way but, at least it will be wired in a conventional manner.


Lastly, where did you source your connector from?

I managed to get some connector shells from a company called Heart Electronics and the correct crimp terminals from RS Components.


Paul.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green  Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'
Post #6381 18th Jan 2009 2:00am
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
No trouble. I like the internals of the switch pics - i didnt get that far to split the switch though!

I picked up a couple of connectors through some contacts. Ive used all mine now, but they were free! Seperately Heart are a great company

I dont think there is anything wrong with using it to switch the earth supply (its almost the same as a +ve, but infact requires less wiring as you know).

By my calculations the switch is switching about 3 amps max (1amp switching, 1amp on LED and 1amp illumination) - this means if you follow the LR connection process you could have up to 6 amps through the sister switches earth (this is what i currently have running). It is how its supposed to be should be fine though. Mike
Post #6382 18th Jan 2009 11:12am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2637

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
PaulMc wrote:
The proper Tyco/AMP Connector 347477-1 with 5 x crimp terminals is available from Dingocroft, their Pt No. ZZPLUG01 -

http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Elec...#aZZPLUG01





Paul, what do you need this connecter for? Will the switch not work by itself?
Post #31582 6th May 2010 10:04am
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
It will work but you wont be easily able to connect anything to it! Mike
Post #31593 6th May 2010 11:49am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2637

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
mse wrote:
It will work but you wont be easily able to connect anything to it!


Laughing

good thing I asked then. Why don't they just make the whole thing into one unit? Rolling Eyes
Post #31601 6th May 2010 12:55pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
Remember this is a standard switch to plug into a standard loom - common - what we are doing is a) not buying the loom b) modifying its purpose Mike
Post #31603 6th May 2010 1:32pm
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p-j



Member Since: 08 Aug 2010
Location: belgium
Posts: 4

I want to place 2 switches for 4 spotlights on my roofrack and a worklight on the back
I already have my led worklight (8.5W)
I have chosen the other lights
the switches and the connectors have just been deliverd... So I'm ready to start Whistle

BUT!
please help me a litle:
How thick do all those wires from the switch to the relay and to the earth have to be? (Those called UB, B and UY)

For cable "R" I calculated:
4 times 55W + led worklight = 228.5W => 2.5mm˛ with fuse 20A
Do I have to run an earth cable to the battery or is it safe to use a place under the hood?

Finally: I want my worklight to go on and off by the switch and not to be triggered by the reverse. So I believe I just have to change the wire that is connected to "86" on the relay to be a +12V. So... can I just use the 12V that comes from my battery or do I have to use some other 12V source?

Bow down

Can't wait to start
Post #41136 23rd Sep 2010 10:17am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20294

United Kingdom 
To help me understand how to wire up my auxiliary lamps, I sat down and drew a diagram showing how the switch is wired internally and then added a basic auxiliary light circuit to the diagram.

The trigger is shown as coming from the High Beam warning lamp, this is for Driving Lamps.

For Front Fog Lamps, this trigger would be taken from the Sidelights or Dipped Beam - depending on local lighting regulations.


Click image to enlarge


Yep, I did the same. What helped me was just to ALWAYS remember that between 85 on the relay and 86 is the coil (trigger) and 30 to 87 is battery positive to spot positive (switch) these will work the same in reverse also but who would want to i really don't know. But what you MUST not do is connecting up like 30 to 85 on my setup that would effectively put the battery positive to ground! Also make sure to remove the appropriate fuse and double check before connecting it all up. Unlike me and then wondered why the horn and main beam wasn't working i blew the fuse Embarassed Whistle K9 remembers (i think) :rolllaugh:

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #41142 23rd Sep 2010 11:46am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Rolling with laughter Hi Konabikes, yep I remember, was going to keep that one for a rainy day! Laughing

Konabike's diagram and explanation is 'spot on' (no pun intended), all the information you need is contained within this thread, if you need any more just holler!

Good luck! Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #41143 23rd Sep 2010 12:08pm
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p-j



Member Since: 08 Aug 2010
Location: belgium
Posts: 4

well, just to be sure Embarassed
what do i have to connect to 86 if I want to use the swith as a regular on/off switch
(I want to turn on my worklight manually, even when the engine is not running.)
Post #41182 23rd Sep 2010 10:28pm
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