 | Home > In Car Electronics > wiring a LED bar into the headlights high beam? |
 
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around with wiring in buttons, and feed from battery.
| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558  
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trouble is the headlight switch is already a weak point , hundreds on the forum have had the switches melt with just standard lights running adding to that load is not going to help
I know leds don't draw that much power , but it is still extra load what ever it draws on the switch |
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1st Feb 2015 8:56am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610  
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That tap off in my quote should be the feed to the coil of the relay either through a live isolation switch or use the switch to switch the earth to isolate them if required to meet MOT legislation. When it is publicised that the switch is a weak spot with AND without extra lights fit it properly or don't fit it at all would be my advice. You could end up stuffed with no lights.
I don't 'think' it's bodging........ as an electrician I know it is......I think you do too!   If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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1st Feb 2015 9:37am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20480
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On mine the OS headlight it used,I too would certainly not draw off of the main beam it's self for the live power feed but use it for relay trigger instead.
You'll need a simple 4 pole normally open contact relay, if you look in the engine bay nearest right hand side you'll see a solitary hex head bolt approx m8 in size. That is perfect to mount a relay on. Earth you can keep local so to speak on a good earthing point up front. All you'll need to run back to the battery / into the LR it's self is a fused live feed. Don't quote me but for an LED light bar it'd probably be a 10A fuse, but that depends on the consumption in wattage it uses which you can convert into current thus Amps drawn. Cable should be rated higher in current rating than the draw and fuse being used. 2.5mm thiwall would probably be ideal in cases in convoluted tubing. That sound about right Mal? |
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1st Feb 2015 10:21am |
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| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2760
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Something like this will do. Plug and play. That's what I use on mine.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&...0884413951 Cheers, David Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
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1st Feb 2015 10:57am |
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| ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328
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You were right you should have brought yours to the workshop
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1st Feb 2015 12:40pm |
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| SGH Member Since: 27 Sep 2010 Location: Hellingly-Sussex Posts: 1527
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^^
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1st Feb 2015 5:27pm |
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| chadjizz Member Since: 25 Apr 2012 Location: sussex Posts: 559 
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hahaha at this rate its worth driving back up to yours again but in mine.... Simon is there anything else you want to buy off Ken... |
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1st Feb 2015 7:51pm |
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| ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328
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Roof Rack
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1st Feb 2015 8:17pm |
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