 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Cleaning the engine bay |
 
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| jomara Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 1790   
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I use Autoglym machine cleaner a long handled brush and a gentle rinse from a hose before dressing with ACF50 2014 110 2.2TDCi XS Station wagon
1971 Bowler Tomcat 88 4.2 V8 Auto 2022 110 D250 XS Edition - Gone 2024 110 D250 X-Dynamic HSE |
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26th Jan 2015 11:03pm |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5117  
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If you use a good engine degreaser, I swear by GUNK, follow the instructions on the can and apply liberally with a brush to the engine. Then just rinse off with a garden hose. There is no need to use a pressure washer if you use a degreaser.
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27th Jan 2015 12:42pm |
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| Alex1976 Member Since: 24 Jan 2013 Location: Buckingham Posts: 596 
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I washed my Jag engine bay (same Ford 2.2 diesel engine) just with some fairy liquid and a brush and rinsed with hose trying to be careful. I still ended up having a battery light on my dash for weeks afterwards until I finally traced a fault to a blown wire from the battery to the alternator which I presume failed because of the washing - too much of a coincidence otherwise.
I would be very nervous about washing the engine bay again. My 300tdi however is regularly sprayed with degreaser and then jet washed and never even a hiccup of a problem.  |
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27th Jan 2015 5:20pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
I've jet washed engine bays in all my cars,petrol or diesel. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
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27th Jan 2015 5:30pm |
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| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 921 
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I use either Autoglym Engine & Machine Cleaner or Bilt Hamber's Surfex HD, worked in with a brush, followed by rinsing with water from an open hose pipe.
http://www.autoglym.com/products/products/...ne-cleaner or: http://www.bilthamber.com/cleaning-and-degreasing/surfex-hd If you like things shiny, a spray with Autoglym Vinyl & Rubber Care afterwards, and whilst it's still damp, will keep you very happy http://www.autoglym.com/products/products/vinyl-and-rubber-care Remember, as Old Scrotum the wrinkled retainer, in 'Sir Henry at Rawlinson End' (look it up) once said: "Shiny always looks dandy." Incidentally, I believe washing up liquid contains salt, amongst other things. |
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27th Jan 2015 5:33pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17722  
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Washing up liquid is a serious danger to paintwork, and is designed to leave an attractive sparkling salt residue on plates which you don't want on your pride and joy! I never let washing up liquid near any of mine.
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27th Jan 2015 5:38pm |
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| Flyingfocrs Member Since: 12 Jan 2015 Location: Deepest darkest Aberdeenshire Posts: 155 
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It is fine but just be sensible.
If you can turn down the pressure of the lance then do so. Keep back and don't force the water jet into the electrics, any sensitive looking areas wrap a shopping bag or freezer bag around it. Lets face it you drive through pouring rain, puddles and in the case of Defenders rivers without a thought for water in the engine bay. The secret is to let the cleaning product do the work and the power wash is just a rinse off. I use Meguiars Super Degreaser mixed 1:4 Spray it liberally and from as many directions as you can, have the engine warm but not hot or it just all dries up. [URL=]  Click image to enlarge[/URL] [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] A long handled 2" paint brush to agitate the cleaner. I have electrical tape wrapped over the metal part to prevent any scratches or damage being inflicted. [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Let it soak. I usually do the engine bay with the degreaser, close the bonnet, then snow foam the exterior and rinse before returning to the engine bay. [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Turn down the lance. [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Keep well back, you are only rinsing not using the pressure washer to clean the degreaser has done that bit. [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] If you want bling - I apply Autoglym Instant tyre dressing, just spray it all over again from multiple directions and liberally when the engine is still damp then shut the bonnet and continue cleaning the rest of the exterior. [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Once the rest of the motor has been done just pop up the bonnet and using an older microfibre dab away any excess that has pooled or puddled. Finished [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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27th Jan 2015 8:04pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 757  
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Thanks for the feedback and tips.
If there are any more, feel free to chime in! The more the merrier. I'm actually concerned about the corrosive effects of the volcanic ash on the engine and electronics. |
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28th Jan 2015 3:01am |
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| Flyingfocrs Member Since: 12 Jan 2015 Location: Deepest darkest Aberdeenshire Posts: 155
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The biggest issue with volcanic ash dust is not so much the corrosion but the abrasive properties.
Once it gets into moving parts if it has a high silica content then it will act just like emery cloth and wear at moving parts. blowing it out with compressed air on sensitive parts creates it's own hazards, eye and respiratory protection being the most obvious ones as lets face it you don't want to be ingesting the stuff either. Washing it out with water creates the risk of if not done sufficiently then the ash can solidify like cement. i would say the best all round option would be to don sufficient PPE and get an air line into the alternator as a minimum then clean the engine bay as described above then ideally get the vehicle up in the air and give it a full clean underneath. Even repeating the process a couple of times to ensure it is fully washed down in all nooks and crannies. Reapply any anti corrosive protection you have used previously or apply it if not done before. Fluids and filter change. Even with that i would still anticipate you may see a premature alternator or wheel bearing failure, of course this depends as well on the level of exposure to the ash and the type as well. Higher the silica content the greater the abrasion. |
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28th Jan 2015 11:43am |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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+1 - let the products do the hard work of cleaning and lifting the dirt and then just a gentle rinse does the job. 303 Aerospace Protectant seems highly thought of on several detailing forums: Last edited by Supacat on 29th Jan 2015 2:34pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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28th Jan 2015 2:14pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 757
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Thanks for the additional tips, Flyingfocrs!
Will definitely do these. I will still have one more run so I shall be doing the intensive cleaning after that. For the meantime though, just blasted the engine bay and bonnet with compressed air and it looks almost totally clean. Had I seen you post tester afternoon, I would've also sprayed the alternator as you suggested. Also sprayed out the air filter, and now the truck pulls nicely again. That stuff is like fine powder and gets everywhere! I may have to spring for total detailing service so that we get all the little nooks and crannies! Might have to pull down the AC for a wash too. |
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29th Jan 2015 3:04am |
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