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SupraAyf



Member Since: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Durham
Posts: 142

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Orkney Grey
2.4 Intercooler Fitting - Hood Latch Panel Removal Problems
Hi All,

I set aside a few hours to change-out my standard Intercooler for the new Serck performance model only to find that my Landy's front end was built on a 'Friday afternoon by those fine folk in Solihull'.

The Puma's workshop Manual shows that 2 bolts should to be removed from each of the brackets that support the Hood latch panel (see below) but unlike the diagram my nuts n' bolts have been reversed-fixed so the nuts are where the bolt-side is etc, i.e. this means that 15mm of thread is still retaining the bracket in place and so I'm not able to remove the hood latch panel to help me get at the Intercooler.

Furthermore, I've been in to the wings and through the headlight apertures and although I can feel the bolt/nut heads in the wing there is absolutely no chance of me getting them out. They are fixed in such a tight and awkward position.

This was not supposed to happen!! Has anyone else had this problem.

The only thing I can do is to grind down the bracket which connects the inner wing to the hood latch panel and see if I can tilt the FMIC forward and out through the aperture.

What a bummer!


Click image to enlarge
 - Andrew -
Post #386681 9th Jan 2015 12:02pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
take it your not talking about the 2 in the picture but the 2 not shown at the front

think your find there all the same studs and nuts hold the slam panel on

you need the remove the stud , warning you there normal hard to get out , there not a bolt put in from the otherside just a stud screwed in
Post #386683 9th Jan 2015 12:06pm
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SupraAyf



Member Since: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Durham
Posts: 142

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Orkney Grey
Thanks Munch, I'll try that now sir. That being said, if you keep coming up with this tip-top advice then I'll soon be putting you forward for an MBE Wink for services to LRs.

Yes, you're right - the two at the front not shown. - Andrew -
Post #386685 9th Jan 2015 12:11pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
normally you can get away with doing one side sometimes wings can be pushed apart gently , replace with bolts
Post #386695 9th Jan 2015 12:31pm
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feynman



Member Since: 07 Aug 2014
Location: Graz
Posts: 2

Austria 
Just use 2 nuts that are counters and normally turns out the bolt.
Post #386701 9th Jan 2015 12:56pm
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SupraAyf



Member Since: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Durham
Posts: 142

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Orkney Grey
Right guys, thanks very much indeed. All 4 are out now thanks to grips and heat. Give me an hour and the truck will be back together with a shiny new IC.

Cheers Munch!!

All the best,

Andrew - Andrew -
Post #386706 9th Jan 2015 1:08pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2634

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Exact same on mine just lock two nuts against each other and remove... Remember which one went were putting them back
Post #386733 9th Jan 2015 2:48pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
Or install normal screws (no more studs)...

...better for the future...... Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License
Post #386746 9th Jan 2015 3:38pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Mine wouldn't budge on either side so I just genty worked and folded the 'slam panel' off the studs on one side and used a rubber mallet and a bit off a wooden broom shaft to panel beat it back afterwards. Frustrating but if they don't budge with the double locknut method do not force it or you'll be in a greater world of pain with a stripped stud you still can't shift. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #386748 9th Jan 2015 3:43pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17214

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
dgardel wrote:
Or install normal screws (no more studs)...

...better for the future......


The only merit for the studs (and probably the reason they're there in the first place) is that they make it slightly easier to fit a wing to a vehicle (the stud holds the wing in place whilst the fasteners are run up).

I agree however that since it seems more common that we need to remove the front panel than the wing, it is more useful to replace them with setscrews.
Post #386757 9th Jan 2015 4:39pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey

Click image to enlarge


Popped one in mine over the Christmas break, next on the list is the re map,
Be interesting to see if you notice any gains with the cooler?
I think top ends a little better? Apart from that not much else in standard form.
Would recommend you "ditch the cat!" That makes all the difference! 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #386786 9th Jan 2015 6:22pm
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SupraAyf



Member Since: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Durham
Posts: 142

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Orkney Grey
Thanks for all of the help and pics, chaps. I have added a few of my own with one showing the replacement of the studs with bolts. The quality of the Intercooler by Serck is outstanding - very happy indeed.

One of the pics shows my new silicone hoses in yellow.



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge
 - Andrew -
Post #386976 10th Jan 2015 12:24pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
So much less complicated without airconditioning. As you can see from the pictures from Ian it can be a bain having to squeeze it between the condensor and the radiator.
Good job.

ian series 1 wrote:
Be interesting to see if you notice any gains with the cooler?


There won't be apart from running temperatures. I initially thought there was but I just think it was a placebo effect of having spent so much money and yearning for a visible improvement.

Laughing Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #386979 10th Jan 2015 12:30pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
I have noticed a slight drop in running temperature, my needle sat exactly half way before.
Now runs just slightly under.

When payday arrives I'm having an Alive re map then I am hoping the large square blingy thing will give me a return on the investment Whistle

I'm running on standard hoses at the moment too, is it worth the extra for the silicone hoses?
I suppose at the end of the day if you've spent that much may as we'll go the whole hog? 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #386989 10th Jan 2015 1:17pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I went for 316 stainless hoses with silicone unions. B45t4rd to fit with claret all over the engine bay but with all the issues with chafing should be a fit and forget item and help with extra heat dissipation too perhaps?

Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #387004 10th Jan 2015 1:55pm
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