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Lambley



Member Since: 20 Apr 2013
Location: Mid Devon
Posts: 1435

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Java Black
Clutch slipping under power
I noticed last night that under acceleration my clutch was slipping, the revs 'purged' when the accelerator was pressed hard.

Is there an adjustment or anything obvious to check before looking at a new clutch?

It's tuned to about 170bhp, but it's only done 30k miles and I don't drive it hard, so I wouldn't expect the clutch to have gone yet?
Post #370511 9th Nov 2014 9:41am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5690

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Check that fuel pressure regulator is not leaking, or the rocker box gasket, both of these can cause it. Where is your bite position on the pedal travel? You can adjust pedal height and bite place, but they don't normaly need to be fiddled with once set. How many miles on clutch?

Andy
Post #370517 9th Nov 2014 10:00am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Re: Clutch slipping under power
^^
Lambley wrote:
it's only done 30k miles


Lambley many other members clutches have gone with about the same or even less mileage. Custom90steve recently had a clutch change too due to similar issues of slipping with less than 30k since the previous clutch. Get an independant to diagnose if possible.

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic30979.html?highlight=clutch If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #370519 9th Nov 2014 10:05am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20334

United Kingdom 
Is there a judder when pulling of from a standstill? I.e. little slip when moving off? More of a jerky take off.
That's how my Puma behaved.
It also started slipping whilst driving which as soon as it happened triggered alarm bells.
Clutch up, nothing for a second or two then drive was there.
I was told the clutch its self was worn but the clutch plate was pitted, flywheel perfectly fine.
As your 90 is only a year older or so than mine I put it down more to age degeneration rather than miles.
Main dealers are not cheap for a replacement but I got a 1yr labour guarantee and 2yr parts.
These things can can play up, if not fitted perfectly so at least there is that peace of mind afterwards.
Post #370526 9th Nov 2014 10:19am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20334

United Kingdom 
I paid £1480 but tat is inflated by the fact I needed other work done too with the rear diff.
Should be around £800 - £1250 or there abouts, genuine parts and qualified mechanics.
Go elsewhere it may be cheaper but if it plays up next day that's your hard luck.
Post #370527 9th Nov 2014 10:22am
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Lambley



Member Since: 20 Apr 2013
Location: Mid Devon
Posts: 1435

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Java Black
Thanks for all the replies, much appreciated Thumbs Up

I'll have a good look underneath shortly
I've not noticed any oil leaks to be honest, but I've not checked the fuel pressure regulator, I didn't know about that, thanks Andy. I hope it's something simple.

c90s - I don't recall any judder to be honest, everything was as it normally is but with the slipping, the only thing I've changed lately was the clutch pedal spring mod a few weeks ago, but I didn't adjust anything when I did it. I'll give everything a good check over shortly. Thanks again.
Post #370530 9th Nov 2014 10:34am
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
I had the same thing on my 110 (tuned as well), if I gun it in 3rd or 4th, not necesserily high revs but using the torque more, it'll slip.

My FPR was leaking. I tried a £5 kit from ebay and it's been on for about 2 years now, leak free.

The clutch still slipped for a bit until, i assume, the fuel "burnt off", occasionally I still get some slip, but nothing like it was.
Post #370535 9th Nov 2014 11:10am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20334

United Kingdom 
Check the gearbox main oil seal for any sign of leakage, I was told that sometimes oil can contaminate the clutch.
As I'm sure you'd realise oil or grease on even a new clutch will slip.
Post #370542 9th Nov 2014 11:48am
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Lambley



Member Since: 20 Apr 2013
Location: Mid Devon
Posts: 1435

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Java Black
This is what I found after removing the sound cover etc at the top, there seems to be a small amount of leakage from somewhere as the loom cables have a bit of oil on them, the second and third pix are taken from underneath, showing the dipstick side of the engine, there might be a slow leak somewhere maybe? would this be enough to get onto the clutch plates to cause a slip?


Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge
[/img]
Post #370561 9th Nov 2014 1:34pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5690

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Sorry for not noticing the milage done on your clutch Embarassed

But the Td5 clutch is good in my opinion and would normally last to about 90-100 thou miles. If yours is remapped then it takes very very little diesel leak to cause it go slip. This was the cause of my clutch slip on my Td5, it was much worse after driving slow (FPR returning lots of fuel) then driving hard (lots of power causing slippage). New FPR and loads of brake cleaner in crank sensor hole and bell housing drain hole and all was good.

Andy
Post #370571 9th Nov 2014 3:07pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
Last winter I had the FPR weeping plus a leak off the back of the rocker cover and when it was damp or I'd been through water I would get clutch slip at the top end of the rev range, just as I was about to change up to the next gear. Now those issues have been sorted all is fine, even with the problems it wouldn't cause any problems towing or off road. Not bad for an original clutch with over 170K on the clock.
Post #370578 9th Nov 2014 4:01pm
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Lambley



Member Since: 20 Apr 2013
Location: Mid Devon
Posts: 1435

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Java Black
Thanks again, I've been out and adjusted the clutch pedal to the settings in the manual, checked the fluid level in the clutch, tried to tighten up any loose nuts/bolts and given it a once over, it does look like the FPR might be leaking a small amount of diesel so I'll order the seal kit for it and see if that cures it (fingers crossed).
Cheers again for the help. Thumbs Up
Post #370580 9th Nov 2014 4:09pm
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silky16v



Member Since: 11 Aug 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 99

England 2001 Defender 90 Td5 X-Tech LE Blenheim Silver
Lambley

i'm just doing my clutch now, just started slipping in 4th and 5th when at peak torque using full throttle
remove engine and box this weekend and i had a leaky FPR for while before it got fixed
never slipped with leaky FPR, 2 months after fixing it and fitting new Intercooler and exhaust (still stock map) it started to slip

upon removal no sign of any diesel on the clutch plate, i find it very difficult for it to find its way onto it TBH as the flywheel and plate are spaced some 2.5-3" away from the bell housing to block, even if the small amount gets in it will weep down the back of the block behind the flywheel and seep from the bottom.
but from the looks of yours it looks like you have oil leakage as well? could this be the cause?

The plate was worn down to the grooves and the flywheel is knacked lots of free play side to side at the 9 to 3 o'clock position

i rang around lots of places as i really couldn't be on with changing it myself and the cheapest i got was £580 +VAT from a LR independant and that included new valeo 5 piece clutch kit

so after talking to another friend he said Defender aren't that bad to do just remove front end, un-bolt some bits and pieces, disconnect loom and then pull engine up a little and out

took me around 5-6hrs to get it out on my own and then i removed the gearbox separately because i want to replace some seals and stuff while its out

once the clutch is slipping it will never just fix itself, and if diesel has got on the plates it will quickly accelerate the wear as it tries to burn it off.

i think you will have to bite the bullet and replace it along with the flywheel as this should be done also, i know your mileage is low but it it's now 10 yrs old so done ok so far in terms of how long its lasted
Post #370816 10th Nov 2014 5:09pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5690

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Mine was the fpr, and once it was replaced and clutch cleaned, it went on to do another 67 thou miles until sold.

Andy
Post #370819 10th Nov 2014 5:15pm
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Lambley



Member Since: 20 Apr 2013
Location: Mid Devon
Posts: 1435

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Java Black
Thanks both

Silky - it must be worth giving the seals and cleaning the clutch a try before going to the expense of a new clutch? I've ordered the seal kit for the FPR so I may as well give it a go.

Andy - is it easy to get access into the clutch and flywheel via the Crank Sensor hole to spray clutch/brake cleaner into? Did you let it drain out of the bottom of the bell-housing or turn the engine over while it was in there, and how much cleaner did you use?

I've heard of people spraying water via a hose through the bell-housing drain plug to wash off any residue too?!!
Post #370849 10th Nov 2014 6:50pm
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