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bell-auto-services



Member Since: 08 Jul 2007
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 2232

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Apart from the very good omments above. If the thrust washers on the crank are warn, under load the crank moves slightly and can cause clutch slip even on low milage cars.

A quick fix/test without measuring crank end float is to put a 2-3mm spacer between the slave cylinder and bell housing spacing it away which gives the clutch fork rod a little more room to move.

Pete
Post #370906 10th Nov 2014 8:44pm
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Lambley



Member Since: 20 Apr 2013
Location: Mid Devon
Posts: 1435

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Java Black
Thanks for the reply Pete - I guess I'd have to make a spacer in order for the slave cylinder to seal properly to the housing?
Post #370931 10th Nov 2014 9:49pm
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bell-auto-services



Member Since: 08 Jul 2007
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 2232

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Yes you could make one or get a spacer from landrover FRC2402 for a V8 or 300TDI



Click image to enlarge
Post #370934 10th Nov 2014 9:55pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5698

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
I just used aerosol brake cleaner with hose on from crank sensor and bell housing drain. Have you checked bell housing drain? When you do/did makes sure hole is clear as it can get sealed/blocked from inside.

Andy
Post #370935 10th Nov 2014 9:58pm
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Lambley



Member Since: 20 Apr 2013
Location: Mid Devon
Posts: 1435

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Java Black
Brill, I'll do the seals on the FPR anyway, clean with brake cleaner and see what happens, then try the spacer.
Thanks very much for your inputs, It's much appreciated.
Cheers
Post #370936 10th Nov 2014 9:58pm
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silky16v



Member Since: 11 Aug 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 99

England 2001 Defender 90 Td5 X-Tech LE Blenheim Silver
just another note i tried the seals first on my FPR and it didn't fix the issue i had to buy a new FPR of the same guy

got to be a dab hand at removing and refitting the FPR could do it all in under 5 mins
i then attached a 30cm long piece of clear pipe to the FPR vacuum connection and tucked it behind the starter motor, so i can see if it ever starts to leak again and if is does it won't go all over the bell housing

heres the FPR i used http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCO...27c85ee4e0
Post #371004 11th Nov 2014 10:19am
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silky16v



Member Since: 11 Aug 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 99

England 2001 Defender 90 Td5 X-Tech LE Blenheim Silver
bell-auto-services wrote:
Apart from the very good omments above. If the thrust washers on the crank are warn, under load the crank moves slightly and can cause clutch slip even on low milage cars.

A quick fix/test without measuring crank end float is to put a 2-3mm spacer between the slave cylinder and bell housing spacing it away which gives the clutch fork rod a little more room to move.

Pete


are the thrust washers easily replaceable when the sump is removed?
would you advise changing them even if there is no little or no play?

as i'm removing mine to check the oil pump bolt while the engine is out, and replacing bolt with new LR part
Post #371007 11th Nov 2014 10:28am
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bell-auto-services



Member Since: 08 Jul 2007
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 2232

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Yes easy to fit with the sumo off. Worth doing as prevention if you have the engine out for sure.


Pete.
Post #371690 14th Nov 2014 8:38pm
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Lambley



Member Since: 20 Apr 2013
Location: Mid Devon
Posts: 1435

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Java Black
Still not done mine yet, been moving house today. !!
Post #371692 14th Nov 2014 8:50pm
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Lambley



Member Since: 20 Apr 2013
Location: Mid Devon
Posts: 1435

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Java Black
Well, after changing the seals on the fpr and flushing brake cleaner through the crank sensor hole it was still slipping, so I flushed water through the crank sensor hole a few times and it now appears to be sorted, the clutch plates must have had diesel on them.
Thanks for all the advice, now seems back to normal. Cheers
Post #372766 19th Nov 2014 3:30pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

mine did same thing till I replaced the FPR Thumbs Up
Post #372813 19th Nov 2014 6:02pm
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