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AndyS

Member Since: 18 Aug 2012
Location: London
Posts: 595

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black

Front Mud Flat bolt thread

Hello,

I tried to put my front mud flaps back on today (after Dinitroling the chassis a while back) but I'm having trouble getting the bolts out (2011 110). They're not tight, they spin freely, but I think LR used one of them inserts that goes into the chassis hole rather than thread the actual hole, the insert must have the thread that the bolt screws into. However, it seems the insert is spinning freely in the hole now it's nicely lubricated with all that Dinitrol.

The question, how to I get the bolts out? I've tried using mole grips on the bolt and pulling the bolt while turning to try and get the insert to grip against the chassis but no luck. You can get to the back of the bolt just about but there isn't sufficient space to get any tools up there (the back of the bolt is in a chassis leg).

Help appreciated.
Thanks.

28th Sep 2014 8:12pm

martinfiattech

Member Since: 13 Nov 2013
Location: leicester
Posts: 422

In my experience you`ve got a few options.

1. Blob of weld on captive nut, making sure you don`t weld the bolt.
2. Cut a hole in chassis section, either weld captive nut in place or hold it with a pair of mole grips.
3. If possible wack it with a chisel to jam the captive nut then try.

4. The really quick bodge way, grind it all off fit a new captive nut secure it all in place. Then spray loads of under seal thru any hole to glue lose nut to chassis, so it does`ent rattle around while your driving.
This works really well on new cars when the factory leave screws, bolts, ect in the sills. Excuse the spelling I`am better with spanners and wires.

28th Sep 2014 8:31pm

Matt

Member Since: 28 Feb 2011
Location: Aylesbury, Bucks
Posts: 180

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey

I've used a hacksaw before to cut the bolt heads off to remove the mudflap, then punch the rivnut with the remains of the bolt back into the chassis rail. You will then need to install a new rivnut and a bolt.
The bolt threads corrode to the rivnuts and seize so when you try to undo them, it just makes the rivnut spin, is a fairly common problem. 15 plate 2.2SW XS

28th Sep 2014 8:32pm

Grouse

Member Since: 16 Apr 2012
Location: on the hill
Posts: 521

Forget the rivnuts, get rid of the old ones, drill new holes and use self tapping bolts - you can remove and refit then at your hearts content - and re tighten without issue - rivnuts are a bloody nightmare, ok when new but crap once light corrosion sets in, they work loose with use in the hole, spin and are always slack once re tightened - hate them

29th Sep 2014 6:02pm

MartinK

Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey

Whilst I'm unsure of the exact position for your particular issue...

When I fitted side steps, LR themselves use rivnuts into the chassis rail. I bought some 110mm bolts and they pass through the whole chassis rail, so no need for rivnuts, and IMHO a better system (plus I used stainless fasteners, and squirted loads of dinitrol). Job sound

Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)

29th Sep 2014 6:52pm

AndyS

Member Since: 18 Aug 2012
Location: London
Posts: 595

Thanks chaps, looks like brute force is needed.

I managed to get my phone camera up through the chassis hole to have a look, I might be able to get a small set of mole grips on the back of the insert so I'll give that a go before hitting it with increasing sizes of hammer. (Amazing how much dirt gets up there.)

30th Sep 2014 5:06pm

NickMc

Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1632

Real pain so they are! I do as above and use the self drilling bolts too.

1st Oct 2014 9:53pm

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