 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Tdci gearbox removal |
 
|
|
|
| dilukabey Member Since: 17 May 2011 Location: Sri Lanka Posts: 173  
|
Thanks for your reply.
Now this spline-shaft and coupling problem is annoying. In order to have a visual inspection you have to remove both gear and transfer box which is a pain. I have seen a thread here that you will get a sort of vibration when running as a pre warning of worn shaft. Don't know how accurate symptom is that. I really really do not want to face this scenario inside the bush where you get lot of toyotas who is waiting to celebrate  |
||
28th Aug 2014 8:28am |
|
| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
|
just transfer box out to do the spline coupling
|
||
|
28th Aug 2014 8:46am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17480  
|
Don't rely upon any warning symptoms. Sometimes you will get them, many times you won't get any warning at all.
As Munch says, you don't need to remove the main gearbox, just the transfer box, so: 1) Disconnect both propshafts from transfer box and tie up out of the way. 2) Remove handbrake drum, then disconnect cable from clevis on handbrake lever and free the cable from the seatbox, unpolt the handbrake backplate and remove handbrake assembly from vehicle. 3) Drain oil fro transfer box 4) Disconnect electrical connectors, harness clips, and high/low and difflock selector linkages 5) Support transfer box on suitable jack, unbolt it from the gearbox, roll it backwards to disengage input shaft, then lower and remove. 6) unbolt gearbox extension casing from back of gearbox. Et voila! the dreaded shaft and coupling is revealed in all its glory. It is possible to get the coupling out in under an hour, and about the same to put back together (reverse the process above to reassemble). If you need to remove the internally-splined part bolted to the back of the gearbox output shaft the hard bit is stopping the shaft turning as you undo it, because it it very tight. It is possible to do this by putting the box in gear and using a windy gun, but it is better if you can beg, steal, borrow, or replicate the proper tool. If you splines are OK of course you don't need to remove this part anyway. (Editted repeatedly for spelling errors) |
||
|
28th Aug 2014 9:37am |
|
| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6308 
|
not trying to be picky here just trying to understand the logic......do you actually need to remove the hand lever?
if so why? excellent info this. one other question - you mentioned the clutch / depressing of when switching the engine off and the associated rattle. does it do this every time or does it come go and is it more of a rattle or like a very harsh clunk as it stops? many thanks,  |
||
|
28th Aug 2014 11:06am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17480
|
You're not removing the lever, you're removing the brake drum/backplate assembly. You have to do this (on a 110 at least and I imagine that 90s and 130s are the same) since it will foul the crossmember behind the transfer box when you try to slide the box backwards off the input shaft.
If the clutch springs are on the way out I would expect a rattle every time if switching off the engine with the clutch in*. * REMEMBER - Clutch IN means foot OFF pedal, clutch OUT means foot ON pedal. I emphasise this since it seems to be an area where there is widespread confusion. |
||
|
28th Aug 2014 12:02pm |
|
| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6308
|
many thanks BW.
and in my eyes very easy to see why there's confusion over the in / out. thanks for the reminder / clarity. |
||
|
28th Aug 2014 12:07pm |
|
| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2646  
|
Spotted on another forum (http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showpost.php?p=2454514&postcount=23):
-- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged 
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
||
|
1st Oct 2014 11:14am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17480
|
Is there anyone here with a Topix login who could download thei SSM? It'd be interesting to see what it says.
For some reason I cannot login to Topix at the moment! |
||
|
1st Oct 2014 12:31pm |
|
| Fifth Horseman Member Since: 08 Mar 2011 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 326 
|
Looking at the pictures (especially the last one) on the first post of that thread it looks as though at some time the lock ring on the extension shaft has become disengaged with the groove in the internally splined adaptor, allowing the extension shaft to move slightly out of engagement which in turn reduces the contact area on the splines and will increase the wear rate. In the fourth pic you can see an area of reduced spline wear to the left of the lock ring which is evidence for this.
This could be checked for by removing the transfer box rear input gear cover (no need to remove the xfer box) and seeing if the input shaft can be pushed forward. |
||
|
1st Oct 2014 12:47pm |
|
| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351 
|
Blackwolf, to help you with your states, mine is a 2010 model.
It all makes sense now. My local LR dealer must have had to order the tool as the car sat there for 5 days waiting. Initially it was in for the clutch, but they said a shaft had seized on which didn't mean anything to me except back then it was only 2 years old and had about 60K on it; I just thought WTF again. They put a new transfer boxing at the same time so maybe t didn't go well for them. My Defender and travels |
||
|
8th Oct 2014 7:47pm |
|
| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
|
I what you mean when looking at the shaft but if the shaft had moved the plastic dust shield would have been pulled out of place or broken no mention of that , and also oil seal would have left a mark on the shaft as transfer input seal would be running in wrong place ( not the shiny machined part ) |
||
|
8th Oct 2014 8:36pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
