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Shepherd



Member Since: 21 Apr 2014
Location: Devon
Posts: 22

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Tdci gearbox removal
Hi all,

I'm new from Devon with a 2008 hard top.
I have done a few searches and found lots of good advise,

Got my defender on a 2 poster ramp and removed everything ready to take the gear box out. (the top bell housing bolts are fun to remove!)
I was planning on removing gearbox and transfer box together, with the help of a few strong mates, is this possible?

I have removed the high and low box gearstick and the main one is still in place, in the workshop manual is shows removing the whole gear selector unit as the gearboxes dropped down, can any one confirm what the best plan is here?

Thanks in advance, will try to get some pics up of what I find.
Matt
Post #325194 21st Apr 2014 9:13pm
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bga86



Member Since: 17 Jan 2014
Location: Here and there
Posts: 205

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
Take the 4 torx screws out at the bottom of the gear lever and lift it out of the gearbox. As for leaving it as one and lifting it out, I hope your mates are very strong as it's a heavy lump! I prefer to split them as it makes things more manageable
Post #325213 22nd Apr 2014 5:59am
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big steve



Member Since: 24 Dec 2009
Location: hertfordshire
Posts: 2456

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Montalcino Red
I dropped my gearbox and transfer box out together with no issues on my own so you will be fine if there's a few of you

Steve 2015 2.2 tdci hardtop xs
3.2 conversion DONE 238bhp and 707nm torque and thats just the start ;-P
hybrid turbo in build -done ready to fit
ashcroft atb in transfer box
6 speed auto in build
Post #325214 22nd Apr 2014 6:37am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17443

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
One advantage to splitting them (aside from the reductionin weight) is that it allows you to check the condition of the infamous splined joint on the gearbox output adaptor shaft. It is really a false economy not to check/lubricate/replace this when the box is coming out.

Agree also with the earlier comment about removing the gear lever housing. You may also want to fit the locating bushes (there's a TSB about these which sadly I cannot find at the moment) when reassembling since they are pennies and improve the gearchange significantly.
Post #325274 22nd Apr 2014 10:35am
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2420

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
such splined joint is that protruding from the extension or "inside" the gearbox extension? Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #325304 22nd Apr 2014 1:36pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
blackwolf wrote:

Agree also with the earlier comment about removing the gear lever housing. You may also want to fit the locating bushes (there's a TSB about these which sadly I cannot find at the moment) when reassembling since they are pennies and improve the gearchange significantly.


Thumbs Up This one I guess: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic24561.html Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #325306 22nd Apr 2014 1:49pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17443

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The splines which fail are those inside the extension housing, not those which protrude into the transfer box.
Post #325345 22nd Apr 2014 4:37pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17443

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
MartinK wrote:

Thumbs Up This one I guess: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic24561.html


That's the one, thanks!
Post #325347 22nd Apr 2014 4:40pm
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Shepherd



Member Since: 21 Apr 2014
Location: Devon
Posts: 22

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Evening,

Thanks for the replys and advise.
I removed the gear stick and have dropped the gearbox and transfer as one lump. Will do some research now on the splines as that's new to me. Might split in on the floor and lift it back in in two.
It not the first clutch as it was dated 2010.
I had a bad rattle when warm and a horrible notchy change in lower gears.

The springs in the old clutch are very loose and the clutch rattles well when shaken.

I have a an AP replacement with latest part number (different to one I just removed) however 2 of the spring are still just a tiny bit loose, is this normal?

Will pick up a new slave cylinder tomorrow and get it put back together
Post #325417 22nd Apr 2014 7:04pm
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Phoenix90



Member Since: 04 Mar 2012
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 377

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Quote:
Will do some research now on the splines as that's new to me


To get you started:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic21391....sfer+shaft
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic11955.html


There was some talk on here a little while ago suggesting that Ashcrofts were engineering an upgraded part to replace this one. I've not heard anything since and there is nothing on their website, but may be worth giving them a call just to check if you decide to replace it. Thumbs Up
Post #325454 22nd Apr 2014 7:56pm
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Shepherd



Member Since: 21 Apr 2014
Location: Devon
Posts: 22

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Hopefully above should be pics of shaft. The fine splines are quit worn so going to replace this and the collar as I'm in this far.
Post #325552 23rd Apr 2014 8:46am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17443

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
What mileage has that shaft done?

It is well worth doing in my opinion, since the parts are not especially expensive (c. £120 IIRC) but it is a pain to drop the t-box to get at. Also if/when it fails on the road you are totally without drive (so sod's law says it'll fail halfway across a juntion, or in lane 3 of the motorway)!

Was there any lubricant on the splines when you took it apart?

The worst year for failures (based on an irresponsibly small sample admittedly) seems to be 2010, when many vehicles left the factory with completely dry splines.

Don't forget to lubricate the splines when you put it back together.

Thaks for posting the pictures, by the way. Intersting to see. Thumbs Up
Post #325560 23rd Apr 2014 9:19am
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Shepherd



Member Since: 21 Apr 2014
Location: Devon
Posts: 22

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Thanks for the advise blackwolf, I'm glad I'm doing it now while it on the bench.
It's was all very dry when I pulled it apart. The new shaft was 43 quid and 53quid for the coupling so not too bad.
Would you lube with grease or copper slip when I put it back together?
Post #325578 23rd Apr 2014 10:54am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17443

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Landrover doesn't recommend a lubricant for this joint since Landrover doesn't reckon it needs to be lubricated!

I have been researching this question with a view to doing mine, and the area with the most expertise of lubing splines seems to be the shaft-driven motorcycle fraternity. The almost universal recommendation there is a product made by Honda called "Moly 60", since it is 60% molybdenum (molybdenum is reckoned to be the best lubricant for metal-to-metal sliding surfaces).

So when I come to do mine, I intend to pop into my local Honda motorcycle dealer to try to get some.

If the Honda stuff proves unobtainable, then the second choice in my book is the trad Castrol Moly Grease (what used to be called Castrol MS3 if I recall correctly). This is actually a lithium based grease with a certain amount of molybdenum added, albeit nothing like the 60% in the Honda product. It is however widely available and generally inexpensive.

Bottom line is that any lubircant is going to be better than the none that was there before.
Post #325620 23rd Apr 2014 3:29pm
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bga86



Member Since: 17 Jan 2014
Location: Here and there
Posts: 205

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
First time I've seen a shaft outside of the box, do they just pull out? What are the part numbers of the repair bits shepherd? May aswell change mine when it has a clutch I think!!!
Post #325675 23rd Apr 2014 7:28pm
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