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Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6318

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

its all this blithering sunshine - the photo hasn't come out very well.

granted the inside is not quite as clean as the outside as I use brasso and a course cloth to give a shine/brushed finish unlike the outside where I use autosol and a lint free cloth to give ultimate mirror finish.

I'm so pleased you brought this subject up as I hadn't previously considered the possible side effects the fumes might have on starting. is it possible the fumes could be impacting on the starting with ecu sensors getting false readings and possible deterioration of the piston rings. I've only done 42k miles and I have noticed that if I don't polish the inside of the exhaust upto the joint just before the CAT on a regular basis I get a covering of very dark black soot - is this a sure sign of the piston rings failing and should I remove the cylinder head to inspect?

if so where should I start - would it be best to support the head and drop the engine or support the engine and remove the head? - where's the very worried emoticon gone?

22nd Jul 2014 1:49pm

ZeDefender

Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue

Miserableolgit wrote:
That's the outside, it's what's up the spout that counts

She said... Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

22nd Jul 2014 2:30pm

munch90

Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

Caterham wrote:

Naturally......just forgot to post the proof.

Click image to enlarge

god give me strength , its a bl@@dy exhaust pipe

and as far as handbrake goes fit a disc conversion !!!!

22nd Jul 2014 5:52pm

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6318

Why do you think I like to get good fuel economy?

........

To keep the inside of the exhaust clean.

22nd Jul 2014 6:04pm

LR90XS2011

Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3650

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green

ZeDefender wrote:
If you read my earliest posts, a clattering handbrake when hot and coasting to a halt was my reason for joining this forum in the first place (dealer failed to fix it 3 times) - LandyZone wasn't exactly helpful either

A while later I bought an X-Brake intending to wait until the warranty ran out to fit it - I never have.

Since then the clattering has gone, to be replaced with metallic scraping, to be replaced with... silence

Like most things on a Defender, if it ain't broke don't fix it - it will probably go away, fall off or rust off. Use your time for fun things like cutting holes in your wing

Matt

p.s. my other reason for joining the forum was sticky gear changes - that's fixed itself too

I too had the knocking noise when coasting to a stand, it cured itself after about 2k miles suspect the shoes had bedded in by then DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy

22nd Jul 2014 6:16pm

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6318

A better shot..

Click image to enlarge

25th Jul 2014 10:00pm

Happyoldgit

Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey

Impressive! But how far up is it clean, it could all be sooty and coked a bit further up

Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.

26th Jul 2014 7:54am

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6318

Only as far as the CAT.

26th Jul 2014 8:51am

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6318

Do these hand brakes have a self adjustment?

If so mine seems to automatically self adjustment ( OUT of adjustment) !!!

I know they don't but mines back to square one ie how it was before taking it apart???

Ggggrrrhhhhhh.

4th Aug 2014 6:29pm

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6318

just back in from 'fixing' the hand brake.....

well let see how it goes tomorrow.

not sure how it came about but it would appear the cable adjustment was well out (or it is now?).

released the handbrake, screwed the adjuster in on the drum to 25 ft ilb then unscrewed by 1.5 turns and the hand brake was almost immediately tight. so reduced the cable adjuster by the seat box to almost minimum. now the handbrake becomes stiff very quickly after 2nd notch.

will be interesting to see how things go tomorrow.

I'm thinking previously the drum was tightend to 25ft ilb while on the 3rd notch (possibly me mis-interpreting the handbook?)

6th Aug 2014 9:23pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17551

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

If you have removed the cable from the lever and seatbox (at the cab end) it is possible on reassembly not to engage the rubber bung thingy at the end of the cable's outer sheath fully into the socket on the seat box.

This means that as you apply the HB the cable is pulled fully into place, which will slacken off the adjustment.

If the handbrake shoes have not been seated properly onto the drum when you adjust the shoes, a similar effect can occur.

Remember that in normal use once the handbrake has been set-up correctly you should never need to adjust the cable; all adjustment for wear is made with the shoe adjuster on the backplate of the drum.

Just noticed that you say the brake is now hard on after the second click. Be careful, if it is adjusted this tight it is very likely that you'll get a variety of banging and clunking noises from the transmission (very destructive sounding), especially when coming to a standstill, caused by the brake shoes snatching the drum. Usually there needs to be about 5-clicks on the lever before engagement to stop this happening.

Strangely it seems to be a TDCi-specific feature despite the handbrake being identical with earlier vehicles, possibly something to do with the nose-up attitude of the engine and transmission.

7th Aug 2014 8:29am

munch90

Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

I would say 2nd click is asking for trouble

does the drum turn free when handbrake off ( chock wheels if working on without handbrake )

7th Aug 2014 8:36am

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6318

thanks guys.

yes I would agree the cable still needs to be slackened off at the seat box but suprising thing is there's not much adjustment left. will slacken off the rest of the way tonight and see how it goes but does seem better at the moment....less grinding /rumbling when coming to a stand still ........and.....I....think...........it just might be less rattly while driving but that could be me being optimistic.

will let you know how I get on.

just one thing - I am right in saying the hb should be off (not on 3rd notch) when setting the drum shoes with the adjuster?

7th Aug 2014 8:49am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17551

To adjust the HB shoes, release the HB completely then tighten the adjuster on the back of the drum until the shoes are in contact with the drum (not too tight, but tight enought to ensure that the shoes are centralised and both are in contact with the drum). Then slacken the adjuster by the minimum amount necessary to allow the drum to rotate freely. For obvious reasons it is necessary to disconnect the rear propshaft from the handbrake (in which case put a couple of nuts back to hold the drum properly) or jack up one back wheel to do this. The handbrake is then correctly adjusted, although on TDCi you may need to slacked the adjuster a little more to prevent the mysterious knocking phenomenon.

You should not adjust the handbrake cable at all under normal circumstances.

If you have either fitted a new HB cable, or messed about with your existing one so that it is out of adjustment, firstly set the shoes correctly (as above) then adjust the cable so that with the HB lever fully down (released position) there is no significant slack in the cable, but make sure that you do not start to apply the HB as you tighten it. I.e., there shoudl be no slack but the cable must not be pulling on the actuator. When correctly adjusted, check to see how many clicks the lever moves before the HB is applied. GEnerally on a TDCi about 5 clicks to fully on is a good target.

Note also that if you need to remove the HB assembly you can disconnect the cable from the lever without altering the cable adjustment. As mentioned above, under normal circumstances you shoudl never need to mess with the cable adjustment - just the shoe adjuster on the backplate of the drum.

7th Aug 2014 12:08pm

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6318

many thanks bw.

the hand break cable was replaced by myself sometime back and I suspect I adjusted the shoes with the handbrake on 3rd notch.

as per hand book at present the shoes have been released by 1.5 turns of adjuster. once I get under again tonight and slacken off the cable a little further I'll be in a better position to comment on how things are.

cheers.

7th Aug 2014 2:53pm

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