 | Home > In Car Electronics > Wiring blue sea fusebox |
 
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512  
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All depends on the power consumption of the accessoiries.
Search for the Watts of the devices, divide by 12 to get the Amps. Then you can input the Amps in this Online Tool to get the wire size. Use fuses with a bit more capacity then the Amps consumption of the accessoiries, but not much more. Cheers, Vincent 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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1st Aug 2014 4:53pm |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142 
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You will need a 125a mega fuse for the main feed into your fuse box from the battery. 25mm cable for the feed should be ample.
Have a gander at vehicle wiring products website. They list the amps for all their cables and have all the other stuff you will need including tools, heat shrink etc etc. we'll worth doing yourself. I know some like to relay everything but there is no need if the accessory is pulling less than 20a and your using carling switches as they are rated for that anyway. |
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1st Aug 2014 5:44pm |
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| Josh K Member Since: 01 Nov 2013 Location: Herefordshire Posts: 266 
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Cheers guys, I'll work out the amps of the accessories and order everything up from VWP. I'm using Carling switches and I had heard that they can take up to 20A. 2007 (57) Defender 90 (Sold)
Looking for another to replace it. The road less travelled.... is a muddy one! |
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1st Aug 2014 6:16pm |
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| Josh K Member Since: 01 Nov 2013 Location: Herefordshire Posts: 266
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I made a start on my wiring project whilst I wait for various parts to arrive from VWP. I re routed all the cables into the cubby box as the switches are going to be mounted using the MUD cubby box switch panel. As the rear work light and LED light bar are both drawing less than 20A and being switched using carling switches I've negated the need for a relay. However the 12 volt socket draws 16A according to the MUD website so my question is:
What size wire, relay and fuse do I need? Which one needs to have the highest / lowest amp rating? 2007 (57) Defender 90 (Sold) Looking for another to replace it. The road less travelled.... is a muddy one! |
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2nd Aug 2014 8:59pm |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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Probably 2mm. Can be smaller for the switch side. What you going to switch it from?
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3rd Aug 2014 7:22am |
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| Josh K Member Since: 01 Nov 2013 Location: Herefordshire Posts: 266
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Not sure I understand Mike. I'm trying to work out what I need to connect the 12v socket to the blue sea fuse box. I'm not switching it, just going to leave it permanently live. Since its rated at 16 amps I'm trying to work out the required wire and fuse. I'm guessing the fuse needs to be a lower rating than the wire so should anything happen the fuse would go first. What size fuse would be recommended. Also would a relay be a good idea? 2007 (57) Defender 90 (Sold)
Looking for another to replace it. The road less travelled.... is a muddy one! |
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3rd Aug 2014 7:47am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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17-20 amp wire / 15 amp fuse
if your wiring it permanent live you don't want a relay , as a relay will be drawing a small load all the time even with nothing connected different makers rate there wires differently cheaper make may rate a thinner cable higher , also depends on the type of cable twin cable (2 insulated wires in a black outer insulation will be rated less then single wire of the same size ) durite 17.5 amp cable is 28/0.30 in single wire Last edited by munch90 on 3rd Aug 2014 8:07am. Edited 1 time in total |
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3rd Aug 2014 7:56am |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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Ah OK. I'd use 2mm cable from your fusebox with a 20a fuse
If you want it to be permanent live that's all you need. A relay is fundamentally a switch so would need a switched feed to work, like from your ignition. This would then make it live when your ignition is on. Since you want it permanent there is no need. This is the reason I put an isolator in front of the fusebox so I could completely turn off all my accessories in one go. |
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3rd Aug 2014 7:57am |
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| Josh K Member Since: 01 Nov 2013 Location: Herefordshire Posts: 266
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And this is why I love this forum. Know matter what you need to know, there is always someone willing to help. Thanks guys
 2007 (57) Defender 90 (Sold)
Looking for another to replace it. The road less travelled.... is a muddy one! |
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3rd Aug 2014 8:23am |
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