 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Tdci gearbox removal |
 
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| Shepherd Member Since: 21 Apr 2014 Location: Devon Posts: 22   
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 Click image to enlarge New clutch fitted |
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23rd Apr 2014 7:32pm |
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| Shepherd Member Since: 21 Apr 2014 Location: Devon Posts: 22
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Hi bga86
Shaft - TUD500020 Coupling - LR030054 The shaft is held in by a plastic clip arrangement, this clip is held in place by a cable tie (wonderful) I will get some photos tomorrow when I put it back together The shaft is easy to remove, the coupling took a bit longer. It is held on with one 30mm bolt, it did however require a good pull with hydraulic pullers, it was tight. hope that helps |
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23rd Apr 2014 7:51pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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cv grease is a moly grease
The grease is very tenacious and will resist "pounding out", even under shock loading. The solid additives adhere to metal surfaces where required under pressure, to provide a long-life lubricant film. CV Grease is highly water-resistant (including salt-water) and can be recommended for lubricant duties on equipment working in aqueous conditions. |
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23rd Apr 2014 7:56pm |
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| bga86 Member Since: 17 Jan 2014 Location: Here and there Posts: 205 
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Cheers shepherd will get them on order tomorrow, look forward to the pictures. Every day is a school day as they say
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23rd Apr 2014 8:13pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17444 
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The plastic bit is only a dust seal, there is a spring ring (visible in Shepherd's photos on previous page) which holds the shaft in the bit on the gearbox. The official removal technique is a slide hammer screwed into the threaded hole at the transfer box end of the shaft, then a puller (as shown above) to remove the 'cup'.
CV grease is indeed molybdenum disulphide based, but the greater the moly content the better. Most tribologists and manufacturers are not very forthcoming about the recipe, which is why the Honda product is attractive - you know exactly what you're getting. |
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23rd Apr 2014 9:35pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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I think all you need is the old style cv grease something thick so wont throw out, I don't think its worth worrying what make etc as its going to be100% better than what was there before , and that was NOTHING
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24th Apr 2014 9:29am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17444
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Agree! |
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24th Apr 2014 9:36am |
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| Shepherd Member Since: 21 Apr 2014 Location: Devon Posts: 22
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Got it all back together, the rattle has gone and the gear change is smoother so I hope it lasts
Below is old and new Click image to enlarge It's not that clear on the photo but when fitted there was noticeably less play in the end of the shaft Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Dust cover fitted Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I changed the gearbox, transfer box and diff oils while I was under it. Click image to enlarge |
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27th Apr 2014 9:00pm |
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| Shepherd Member Since: 21 Apr 2014 Location: Devon Posts: 22
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Click image to enlarge Coupling was tightened to 210Nm then loctite applied and torqued to 190NM |
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27th Apr 2014 9:02pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17444
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I need to fit another new clutch to mine in the very near future, since it is giving all the symptoms of a near-death driven plate again. I fitted the last one at about 60k miles and the the vehicle is now at 140k, so although I am a little disappointed with only 80k (my Disco 2 had its first clutch at 150k and only then because of judder, not wear) I suppose it isn't too bad for a Puma.
The transfer box is also quite sloppy now, and in fact the main dealer who serviced it when I bought it at about 40k miles recommended fitting a new one then. It also persistently leaks oil into the handbrake, which at least stops the handbrake rusting. Due to all the above I have just bought a pre-owned complete gear/transfer box from a 2013 write-off with less than 2.5k miles on the clock. Not cheap, but still about half the price of a reconditioned t-box from Landrover! I have seperated the two boxes for ease of handling (I reckon each part is about 70 to 75 kg - a strongish person can lift and carry each part without too much trouble, but you wouldn't want to carry them far), and also to check the splined shaft. On the 2013 box there is fortunately next to no wear on the splined joint, but the joint had traces of some kind of gunge in it which I presume must be - or have been - lubricant; had the consistency of soft fudge and had been almost entirely expelled from the contact surfaces. There was also very, very little of it, so it seems that weven now this part is not being properly lubricated on assembly. It will be interesting to see what the joint on the vehicle looks like, since it has now done 140k miles. |
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28th Apr 2014 8:47am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17444
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Finally got around to fitting my new clutch last week, with several interesting discoveries.
The clutch has been in for about 65k miles, and was very rattly, snatched badly, and generally made driving the vehicle pretty unpleasant. I also wanted to replace the transfer box since at the time I had the previous clutch fitted, the dealer recommended a new transfer box due to noise and backlash issues, and these had become 65k miles worse. The clutch that came out had all its springs in place still, but very loose and rattly and not far off falling out. The friction surfaces were fine with miles of life left in them though. The thing that surprised me most however was the condition of the adaptor shaft and the dreaded splined coupling. Bear in mind that this is the original shaft on a 2007 110 DC with 143k miles on the clock, and most of that has been fairly hard use, heavy towing, etc. I was fully expecting the splines to be completely shot and on the verge of failure. What I actually found was .... perfection, no wear whatsoever, just a polish on the contact surfaces! I had a new shaft assembly ready to fit, and there was no noticeable difference between the new one and the 143k one at all. I was completely and utterly dumbfounded! On the basis that is if has lasted this well it must be pretty special I decided to leave it well alone, so reassembled it well-packed with molybdenum grease, fitted the new clutch, fitted the new transfer box, cleaned and grease the gear levers and linkages, lubricated the clutch pedal pivots, bled the clutch, and WOW! what a difference. I now have no clunk in the driveline, a smooth, feather-light, progressive clutch, and the slickest and most precise gear change I have ever experienced on a Landrover! The vehicle is also significantly quiter with the replacement transfer box, so much so that SWMBO immediately commented without being prompted. Incidentally despite what the WSM says it is possible to do all this without removing the exhaust (something I wanted to try to avoid due to the rustiness of the nuts and studs). You can remove the transfer box quite easily with the exhaust in situ, and provided that you don't need to take the gearbox right out, you can slide it backwards to get at the clutch with the exhaust in situ. All done out of doors with no pit or ramp. |
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9th Jun 2014 8:33am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6300 
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excellent and well done. thanks for all the useful info.
and in no time at all...... how much you charging?  |
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9th Jun 2014 10:11am |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3644 
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thanks all found this thread very interesting DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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27th Aug 2014 9:21pm |
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| dilukabey Member Since: 17 May 2011 Location: Sri Lanka Posts: 173 
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Mine is 2009 MY Puma and has done 51k miles.
Is there any symptoms/signs that can be identified of worn or damaged shaft and coupling prior to complete stall in a middle of a thick jungle? . Cheers.  |
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28th Aug 2014 4:43am |
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