 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rust prevention or treatment |
 
|
|
|
| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816   
|
Zag it or get it zagged now, thorough and without delay
 You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
||
14th Mar 2014 5:09pm |
|
| lukev01 Member Since: 24 Mar 2012 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 412  
|
^^^
Either PM Zagato and get it done by the guru himself, or get it done in Dinitrol somewhere else as soon as possible. I arranged to get mine done straight after delivery. I am sure forum members can recommend somewhere near you. 1970 Series 2A 88" |
||
|
14th Mar 2014 5:58pm |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20190 
|
Do it yourself with Dinitrol.
NEVER SURRENDER! ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
||
|
14th Mar 2014 6:17pm |
|
| Natlas Member Since: 20 Mar 2013 Location: West Sussex Posts: 460 
|
Yes, DIY with Dinitrol isn't too tedious and you can spread the task over a few visits if you want. 2.2 90 XS
88" Series One Old Norton 
Minerva |
||
|
14th Mar 2014 7:15pm |
|
| dwrights Member Since: 24 Feb 2013 Location: Nottingham Posts: 64
|
Zag is on crutches and out of order at the moment.
|
||
|
14th Mar 2014 7:22pm |
|
| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
DIY with Dinitrol,and don't forget the top of the front suspension turrets,they hold a small cup full of mud.You don't need to do it all at once,divide it into front and rear halfs.Also your chassis isn't gonna (seriously) rust for a while yet, especially if keep on top of it with regular jet wash underneath. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
|
||
|
14th Mar 2014 7:23pm |
|
| Matthew_Mills Member Since: 16 Feb 2014 Location: Somerset Posts: 152
|
So I'm assuming that Dinitrol is an oil wax mix that you spray on, having cleaned everything down... I've seen a couple of threads on how to do so I guess go read gain is the answer...
Mind you time is limited... How do get hold of the man Zag? |
||
|
14th Mar 2014 8:36pm |
|
| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
You can buy Dinitrol in aerosol or 1 liter cans that you need a special gun and compressor for.I did mine with aerosols.As said you don't need to do it all at once.I guess the most important thing to do first is the inside of the chassis and X-members.Again if you keep on top of the chassis it's not gonna rust for a while.
Dinitrol'ing a new chassis is an utter doddle,took me months just to get rid of ALL the mud BEFORE I could dino' mine. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
||
|
14th Mar 2014 9:01pm |
|
| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2293 
|
Hello Matthew_Mills
My guess would be that the overwhelming consensus here will be to act now and not when the rust has truly taken hold. I have read and re-read the 'Zagato thread' and it has sent me down the 'what's the best thing to do ?' route. There is actually much more to the 'quest' to find the current 'best practice' in under body rust prevention than first appears, just getting underneath and spraying something recommended is not the answer. There is a lot of good, detailed first hand experience on the 'classic car' forums if your interested. If in doubt get someone good, to do a good job, but this is a possible DIY job too. I am going down the DIY route this spring having bought a low mileage (6K) 2010 90 last October I will post what I do then, I agree Dinitrol is a good starting point but a large factor for the success with Dinitrol, (in fact any treatment) will be in the preparation, also the key areas to get right is all the places you can't see, inside the chassis, bulkhead etc, (no real surprise when you think about it). Land Rover could have, in fact, should have done a better job here, but act now and raise the bar. SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
||
|
14th Mar 2014 11:26pm |
|
| Matthew_Mills Member Since: 16 Feb 2014 Location: Somerset Posts: 152
|
Can you get Ziebart in the uk?
|
||
|
15th Mar 2014 1:10am |
|
| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
|
Matthew, I don't think Dinitrol is an "oil wax" as you call it there, contrary to something like waxoyl often used in the UK. Dinitrol does not have a petroleum product smell like the above. Now as to Dinitrol application, a lot is to say for leaving this messy job to a professional, but then not just to the first one around the corner. It took me months of searching here in Switzerland, and finally I drove the truck from here all the way to Belgium to get it done by a garage who still are interested to do this job, and who follow the rules by the book. Dinitrol still today are providing to their professional applicators for specific car models a constantly updated step by step handbook of the entire process to follow for that car model, which Dinitrol product to use on what, how to apply it, which elements to take off of the car, how and what to protect before starting, etc.... A good Dinitrol center will follow these rules by the book, and also have the equipment needed to properly apply the product into all nooks and crannies... For instance, the inside of my chassis legs was sprayed with pure Dinitrol at a pressure of 80bar.... I don't think you can do this at home. When my car was treated, it was first half taken apart by them, wheels and door cards removed, lights taken off, wheel arch brows removed, ceertain trim removed, all door screws taken out one by one for extra access, etc. etc. And all put back professionally without any damage. Now, if you find an outfit which still can/want to do that in the UK, I recommend to go there. If not, better to do yourself. Frankly, at the time, I had to go as far as Antwerp to find someone who was still passionate about this, when you talk with people like that, you immediately will feel that they know what they talk about. More recently, we finally found one outfit here in Switzerland who are even better than the one in Antwerp, not here in Geneva where they charge you the world, but do not really know any more the art of doing this. It is a body/engineering firm at the other end of the country near Basel, where a friend of mine had his new Defender done a year ago, and they are just amazing. Mine will go there this spring for a full retreatment now after first treatment 3 years ago. Sofar I have not seen anybody in the UK here on this forum talk as highly and confidently about a Dinitrol provider their end, so guess the kind of people we found in Antwerp and here are becoming like needles in a haystack. All above to say that a real professional can probably still do a very superior job at workable prices. When I have seen how much work they put into it, I thought even the price they charge here in Switzerland is more than worth it. Good luck, Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
||
|
15th Mar 2014 6:34am |
|
| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 907 
|
Everyone here says use Dinitrol (at least no one suggested Waxoyl), but I assume none of them have read the July 2013 report by Dr Phil Green from the University of Hertfordshire School of Engineering and Technology called "Assessment of Wax Coatings Using a Salt Spray Cyclic Corrosion Test".
In this, six well known corrosion protection products were each put, at the same film thickness, onto three identical bare steel plates, along with one steel plate left bare, and subjected to wet salt spray testing in a controlled environment. After the time was up, the products were cleaned off and the amount of corrosion assessed. The results, after 2084 hours of testing in a ridiculously harsh environment, put Dinitrol 3125HS in 4th place, with Bilt Hamber's Dynax S50 a comprehensive 1st. There was the barest trace of rust on the very edges of the plates coated with it, whereas the Dinitrol had around 75-80% corrosion under it. Waxoyl was 98-100% rust incidentally. The test was done at the request of Bilt Hamber, but I can find no hint of any bias towards them in the report. It's all backed up with multiple photographs of the results. It's your vehicle, and your money, but if you want the best corrosion protection you can get for it, Bilt Hamber is the firm to use, and they're British too: www.bilthamber.com If you contact them, they will probably let you have a copy of the report. It's a real eye opener. It's easy to do it yourself with their big high pressure aerosol cans as they come with 2' tubes with diffusers on the ends to get into all the awkward areas. Peter Hamber suggested to me to use Dynax S50 inside the 110's box sections, and Dynax UB on the exposed surfaces. I'm going to use the UC to protect the less exposed mechanical assemblies too. Having previously tried various alternatives, I've used BH stuff on my vehicles for eight years now, and wouldn't entertain anything else. And no, I'm just a customer, not an employee (although I ought to be on commission!) I hope this is of interest. |
||
|
15th Mar 2014 7:38am |
|
| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 907
|
As an additional thought, I'm in the process of enquiring whether Lokari make wheel arch liners for the later Defenders. They do them for models to 1989:
http://www.lokari.de/epages/62716287.sf/en...-0879-0880 And it may be these will also fit the newer ones. I had a front pair from them for my old Opel Manta which were astonishingly good. Keeping the cack out of the nooks and crannies in the first place must be a very good idea. I'll report back once I know more. |
||
|
15th Mar 2014 8:03am |
|
| df1 Member Since: 06 Aug 2011 Location: Ireland Posts: 221 |
I've tried a few methods and found waxoyl a waste of money.
The best solution I've found so far (although not used bilthambef ) is 2 coats of Lowe rust primer, applied 24 hours apart then another 24 hours later a coating of dinitrol. I applied the rust primer by brush to any surface rust. Granted this is only visible tests, I don't have any better solution than spraying the dinitrol inside the chassis. I think everyone has there own preferred method. |
||
|
15th Mar 2014 8:25am |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
