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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2638
South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Clutch stuck in and will not release
Hi guys,

I got to work this morning and while reversing into my parking bay, the clutch would not release.

I had to stall the landy and then push it back into the parking bay.

The clutch is stuck in and will not release, what now? Big Cry --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #315188 11th Mar 2014 7:32am
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862
Have you checjed the clutch fluid? If the fluids dropped there'll be no pressure to return the pedal. Other sinsiter problems may be the the boot on the slave has popped off. So you may find a puddle under the bell housing after work.
Post #315193 11th Mar 2014 8:00am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2638
South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Yep, will go check the clutch fluid.

I haven't noticed any leaks in the garage.. Confused --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #315197 11th Mar 2014 8:25am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17380
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If it was in use and working up to that point I would suspect a loss of fluid for some reason. Does the pedal 'feel' normal?

If the vehicle had stood for a while the driven plate can stick to the flywheel giving the same result, but this is very unlikely if it was working as you drove to work.
Post #315212 11th Mar 2014 9:32am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2638
South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
It's been 2 hours since I got to work, and I went to check the clutch fluid level.

I stuck my finger in the reservoir and touched liquid at around 5-6cm down from, and it was black-ish. Is this normal or not?

Also, I fiddled with the clutch pedal and it popped back up. I then started the car and pumped the pedal for about 5min, and it felt normal - it didn't soften or harden.

No signs of anything leaking underneath either. --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #315214 11th Mar 2014 9:40am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17380
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
When you say "the clutch was stuck in" do you mean "in", ie pedal up, clutch engaged and won't disengage, or do you mean "out", ie pedal down, clutch disengaged and won't engage.

The terms "in" and "out" are very often used incorrectly, and I wonder if this has happened here since you now say "the pedal popped back up".

A clutch fault causing the clutch to stick "in", ie engaged, will lead to a completely different diagnosis to a clutch fault causing it to be stuck "out", ie disengaged.
Post #315219 11th Mar 2014 10:18am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2638
South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Quote:
or do you mean "out", ie pedal down, clutch disengaged and won't engage.


I meant the above.

As in the clutch wouldn't engage and I had to stall the car to avoid crashing into stuff Sad --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #315220 11th Mar 2014 10:42am
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862
That clutch fluid should be level with the top of the tube you put your finger in. And it also shouldnt be black. It sounds like your repair is simply to bleed the clutch fluid. A nice easy job the wife can help you with too
Post #315223 11th Mar 2014 11:09am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2638
South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
thanks, but will leave it to the indie workshop.

is clutch fluid the same a brake fluid, i.e., Dot4? --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #315225 11th Mar 2014 11:18am
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862
Yes both are dot 4.
Post #315227 11th Mar 2014 11:35am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17380
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Naks wrote:
Quote:
or do you mean "out", ie pedal down, clutch disengaged and won't engage.


I meant the above.

As in the clutch wouldn't engage and I had to stall the car to avoid crashing into stuff Sad


Still confused!

If the clutch "wouldn't engage" the engine is disconnected from the gearbox and you won't crash into stuff.

If you "had to stall the car to avoid crashing into stuff" then you're saying the clutch wouldn't disengage.

If the latter, it brings us back to fluid levels, cylinder seals or operating linkages as the likely culprits.
Post #315242 11th Mar 2014 1:17pm
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2638
South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Just to update you guys:

The indie bled and refilled the system and then took it for a 40km drive. Upon return, the clutch fluid was below fill level and there were signs of clutch fluid leaking from the gearbox.

That meant that the gearbox has to come out for an inspection of the slave cylinder, which is probably the culprit.

So I have to spend a few days driving a VW Polo Big Cry --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #316437 16th Mar 2014 4:29pm
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039
Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
I am not that familiar with the Puma but is the slave cylinder not attached on the outside? So you can just take the slave cylinder off for inspection????? Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #316443 16th Mar 2014 5:33pm
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2638
South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
nope, the Ford design is such that the slave cylinder is inside the bellhousing:

Quote:
Clutch Controls - 2.4L Duratorq-TDCi HPCR (103kW/140PS) - Puma -
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Removal and Installation

Removal
1. WARNING: Do not work on or under a vehicle
supported only by a jack. Always support the vehicle on safety
stands.
Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
For additional information, refer to: Battery Disconnect and
Connect (414-01 Battery, Mounting and Cables, General
Procedures).
3. Remove the transmission.
For additional information, refer to: Transmission (308-03
Manual Transmission/Transaxle, Removal).
4. Disconnect the fluid pipe.
Position an absorbent cloth to collect any fluid spillage.
Remove the clip.



Part #2 in the blowup below:


Click image to enlarge --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #316560 17th Mar 2014 7:45am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2638
South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Yep, the culprit is the slave cylinder, which is being replaced.

This Ford design is a real PITA, it is the same on the Fiesta/Focus as well. --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #316902 18th Mar 2014 1:02pm
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