 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Stub axles and hubs |
 
|
|
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17320   
|
Does the silence mean that noboby knows?
Dang, I'll have to try to answer my own questions.... |
||
24th Feb 2014 10:41am |
|
| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
|
think there part of the stub axle ( the bit that bolts on to swirvel housing )
|
||
|
24th Feb 2014 10:50am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17320
|
Done some more research:-
A) The wear ring is now supplied (as any rate) only as part of the stub axle, so once it ihas a groove work in it you now have to replace the stup axle (£98.38 ) rather than just the wear ring (which used to be about £4 IIRC). Progress! 
B) The holes for the drive member bolts are blind and do not pass right through the hub (in fact at the back of the hub the diameter of the central boss tapers to a diameter significantly less than that at the front so it would in fact be impossible for the holes to be through). I'm not sure if this info is of any interest to anyone else, but having posed the question I thought I'd post the answer for completeness. The reason for my interest in (B) is that I have one rear drive member bolt which has sheared in the hub, and at some stage I need to drill it out (or drill and helicoil, or simply replace the hub). Last edited by blackwolf on 27th Feb 2014 10:23pm. Edited 1 time in total |
||
|
24th Feb 2014 3:14pm |
|
| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2635 
|
(A) has been the case since metrication of the Series III in 1980 I believe (same time they went from two different sized bearings to a matched pair) - all 88"/109" from then onwards and subsequently all 90/110 have had the one-piece stub axle.
I too agree that the old system was better! I'm sure they had their reasons for changing it though. |
||
|
27th Feb 2014 7:07pm |
|
| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7987  
|
you will find atubs alot cheaper than that for non gen. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
||
|
27th Feb 2014 10:19pm |
|
| Toplink Member Since: 05 Dec 2010 Location: Somerset Posts: 159
|
Re stub axles have you thought about using speedy sleeves?
Goole Barnwells. http://www.barnwell.co.uk/shaftrepairkits.html They work used them on LandRovers and farm machinery. Its never over in my land rover. 2007 Defender HTop. 1952 Series One 80" 1977 Muir-Hill 111. 2014 Triumph Tiger800xc 1999 Discovery 2 td5 1982 Ransomes TSR300D. 2002 Yamaha XT600e. 2010 Freelander2 (the wifes) 2008 John Deere X140 |
||
|
28th Feb 2014 12:07pm |
|
| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6088 
|
I usd a Bearmach stub on my 110 (Salisbury, rear) and the quality was great. Been on there for a couple of years now.
Can't remember the price, but at least half what you say a genuine one is. And the brake disc bolt holes are "right through" on the hubs... on mine they are anyway. usually filled up with mud and paint, but they clear when you poke them then apply some air. |
||
|
28th Feb 2014 9:20pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
