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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17374

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Stub axles and hubs
Can anyone tell me:

A) Is the wear ring on a 2007 TDCi stub axle (the thing the hub oil seal runs on) replaceable or is it integral with the stub axle. On earier models (from 1947) it was a seperate part and the Puma WSM mentions replacing it, however it is not listed on Microcat. It looks seperate to the stub axle still. Anyone have a part number if it can be bought seperately?

B) Are the 5 holes in the hub into which the bolts which secure the driving member screw blind, or do they appear at the disc mounting face? In other words if you unbolt the disc from the hub, can you see all the way through the holes?

Thanks!
Post #310729 22nd Feb 2014 10:43pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17374

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Does the silence mean that noboby knows?

Dang, I'll have to try to answer my own questions....
Post #311207 24th Feb 2014 10:41am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
think there part of the stub axle ( the bit that bolts on to swirvel housing )
Post #311213 24th Feb 2014 10:50am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17374

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Done some more research:-

A) The wear ring is now supplied (as any rate) only as part of the stub axle, so once it ihas a groove work in it you now have to replace the stup axle (£98.38 ) rather than just the wear ring (which used to be about £4 IIRC). Progress! Big Cry

B) The holes for the drive member bolts are blind and do not pass right through the hub (in fact at the back of the hub the diameter of the central boss tapers to a diameter significantly less than that at the front so it would in fact be impossible for the holes to be through).

I'm not sure if this info is of any interest to anyone else, but having posed the question I thought I'd post the answer for completeness.

The reason for my interest in (B) is that I have one rear drive member bolt which has sheared in the hub, and at some stage I need to drill it out (or drill and helicoil, or simply replace the hub).


Last edited by blackwolf on 27th Feb 2014 10:23pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #311287 24th Feb 2014 3:14pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2644

Scotland 
(A) has been the case since metrication of the Series III in 1980 I believe (same time they went from two different sized bearings to a matched pair) - all 88"/109" from then onwards and subsequently all 90/110 have had the one-piece stub axle.

I too agree that the old system was better! I'm sure they had their reasons for changing it though.
Post #312142 27th Feb 2014 7:07pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8026

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
you will find atubs alot cheaper than that for non gen. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #312203 27th Feb 2014 10:19pm
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Toplink



Member Since: 05 Dec 2010
Location: Somerset
Posts: 159

United Kingdom 
Re stub axles have you thought about using speedy sleeves?
Goole Barnwells.

http://www.barnwell.co.uk/shaftrepairkits.html

They work used them on LandRovers and farm machinery. Its never over in my land rover.
2007 Defender HTop.
1952 Series One 80"
1977 Muir-Hill 111.
2014 Triumph Tiger800xc
1999 Discovery 2 td5
1982 Ransomes TSR300D.
2002 Yamaha XT600e.
2010 Freelander2 (the wifes)
2008 John Deere X140
Post #312315 28th Feb 2014 12:07pm
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
I usd a Bearmach stub on my 110 (Salisbury, rear) and the quality was great. Been on there for a couple of years now.
Can't remember the price, but at least half what you say a genuine one is.

And the brake disc bolt holes are "right through" on the hubs... on mine they are anyway. usually filled up with mud and paint, but they clear when you poke them then apply some air.
Post #312461 28th Feb 2014 9:20pm
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