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neilly

Member Since: 21 Nov 2013
Location: Oxford
Posts: 11

OK, just looked in the workshop manual,

tensioner Bolt 45Nm.
Idler stud 10Nm.
Idler Nut 45Nm.

How is that meant too work then. I replaced the stud threadlocked it, and then when I put the nut on I did it up to 45Nm. You would have thought that the manual wold highlight that part instead of hiding it in the torque settings page.

Darn, maybe I need to go take mine apart now, although I cannot see any of the rubbish you could see through the wading plug hole.

FYI Mr Haynes does not mention the stud torque!!!!! only the idler nut and tensioner bolt!

Lesson learned read, read again and then read again.

Cheers

22nd Feb 2014 9:29am

jfh

Member Since: 08 Jan 2014
Location: West Coast
Posts: 360

2007 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Chawton White

I would leave it.
This was my warning sign.

Click image to enlarge

Most probably the mechanic at LR over torqed it and it gave way when I did the cam belt on the next belt change.
I just think that this is a designed weak spot.

Luckily mine is purring like a kitten again.

Another designed weak spot is the light switch.
In 14 years I have replaced 4 on 2 different Defenders.
There is just to much current going through the switch.
I will now build in a relay.

22nd Feb 2014 11:52am

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