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| db950 Member Since: 01 Feb 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 560   
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The galvanisers around here are part of the wedge galvanising group, minimum of 50kg and roughly £1 per kilo. Obviously would get cheaper the larger the quantity.
For example my 110 chassis and a few other bits cost £180 1997 Ex-MOD 110, Pop Top Camper, build thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72352.html 2014 Discovery 4 SE Tech Instagram @the110camper |
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18th Feb 2014 9:52pm |
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| SailingTom Member Since: 19 Nov 2013 Location: ESSEX Posts: 1720
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Try a local engineering firm that is taking bits anyway as they normally slip it in for you in there lot, which is your best bet.
Shame your not closer to me or id of offered putting the step and bumper in with the next lot of trailers. Only thing to remember is the smaller bits get lost sometimes so wire them to bigger items. Cheers Tom  Defender puma dormobile camper |
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18th Feb 2014 9:53pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20298
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Tom - Yeah, I've heard of that before, I guess the smallest item I'd have would be bumperettes so not that small but I know what you mean.
I think it was Wedge I contacted at the time, I'd have to properly strip everything etc too inc removing chequer plating in places to re fit at a later date. Really annoying having PC'ing peel on things which you know is only going to get worse, it is something I'm going to have to sort at one point i think. I think Galving would be the best fit and forget option but comes with it's effort to do so. I forgot to add to the list earlier the sidesteps. âï¸âï¸God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 âï¸âï¸ |
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18th Feb 2014 10:15pm |
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| SailingTom Member Since: 19 Nov 2013 Location: ESSEX Posts: 1720
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Galvanizing's the way to go.
Im going to be getting all the accessories done on my next one. Remember though the metal needs to be completely clean/raw or they'll charge you for blasting as they wont put it in the tank. Defender puma dormobile camper |
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18th Feb 2014 10:40pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20298
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Very true, not quite sure how internal tubing / box section comes into that though?
Wash out and dry I guess, at least I have no rust treatment inside any of it like Dinitrol etc which is good from a Galvanizing point of view. Of course then I'd have the issue of when my 90 is naked so to speak I'd need a standard front bumper as a temporary measure as my 90 is my essential transport. Not too expensive though on the plus side. What's the best next stage paint with etch primer properly or PC? âï¸âï¸God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 âï¸âï¸ |
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18th Feb 2014 10:53pm |
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| Laurie Member Since: 22 Feb 2008 Location: Sussex, England Posts: 2897  
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These guys are the most reputable company when it comes to Land Rovers.
They even made up jigs for bukheads in the past. http://www.medgalv.co.uk/contact/  |
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18th Feb 2014 10:58pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20298
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Excellent link that - thank-you.
I think a 40 - 70 year lifespan galvanizing standard should be good enough!  âï¸âï¸God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 âï¸âï¸ |
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18th Feb 2014 11:01pm |
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| Cuthbert Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: Up North Posts: 1535 |
Please remember that you cannot hot dip components that have sealed voids - you need a hole or two - or you will have an exploding component and a shower of molten zinc.
Solid bar and open sections are fine - tubular/box sections with end caps require breather holes to let hot zinc in and pressure out. |
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18th Feb 2014 11:30pm |
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| db950 Member Since: 01 Feb 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 560
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As said, make sure any tubing has vent holes. For cleaning inside tubing just wash out with a pressure washer to get rid of any dirt/loose material. Don't bother trying to dry though, before galvanising it gets dipped in an acid bath, then a water bath then the galv. If you talk nicely to them and plan in advance you could drop it off and pick it up the same day, I did with my chassis.
Powder coat would be best but if you want to finish it at home then you could etch prime,undercoat and top coat but you have to acid wash the galv first with something like t-wash. 1997 Ex-MOD 110, Pop Top Camper, build thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72352.html 2014 Discovery 4 SE Tech Instagram @the110camper |
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19th Feb 2014 7:22am |
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| SailingTom Member Since: 19 Nov 2013 Location: ESSEX Posts: 1720
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Sorry should of confirmed as others have said you'll need open section or at the very least a couple of 5-10mm holes. It shouldnt be a problem as the bits will most likely have them anyway.
When it comes to cleaning, a good wash out before. If its open box section with paint/ powder coating inside my local one charges for blasting first (smaller items like yours might get away with it though) As for paint / coatings I wouldn't bother with powdercoating as have always found it useless. Remember just because its galvanized underneath it will still peel off if you chip it and moisture gets behind. Other point is galvanizing works by the oxygen getting to it to create the external layer of protection on the steel, so best to leave it in its natural coating. I always leave it galvanized finish as like the look of it anyway, if you do want it black I have always found the hammerite products very good, with the bonus if you scuff it you can just touch it up. If you have any questions feel free to message me as with the boats where always having bits done, so might know the cheapest/ easiest ways (I reckon a 70 year life span is a tad optimistic)  Defender puma dormobile camper |
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19th Feb 2014 7:51am |
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| Laurie Member Since: 22 Feb 2008 Location: Sussex, England Posts: 2897
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Make absolutely sure you won't need to cut or drill anything you send for galvanising afterwards.
So easy to forget the holes for a trailer socket or something. |
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19th Feb 2014 12:14pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20298
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There is only thing I can think of though, what about any items that have captive threads? I can't see any way of avoiding the issue than than to tap out the thread again when you need it or the male screw or bolt won't fit. âï¸âï¸God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 âï¸âï¸
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20th Feb 2014 8:05pm |
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| db950 Member Since: 01 Feb 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 560
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That's exactly what you do, just re-tap the threads. 1997 Ex-MOD 110, Pop Top Camper, build thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72352.html
2014 Discovery 4 SE Tech Instagram @the110camper |
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20th Feb 2014 10:54pm |
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| Cuthbert Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: Up North Posts: 1535 |
It is an accepted weak spot of hot dip zinc galvanising that threads for fastenings do get clogged during the process. As the zinc coating is a lot softer than mild steel it usually doesn't take much effort to clean up the threads - sometimes just by running a well lubed spare bolt/screw into the tapped hole. If the tapped hole is really well blocked then you may have to use the correct tap - the danger is that you cross-cut a new thread onto the original thread and then you have another problem on your hands.
Just to share some experience of galvanising large diameter bolts - the minute you start running any nut onto the bolt - you remove some of the protective coating you have just paid for - and then the corrosion really sets in. If you look at the galvanised foundation bolts used for information gantries and lighting along our motorways - note that they are usually capped with what looks like grease soaked rags/plastic caps, as the contractors know that they will rust like crazy - even although they were supplied as hot dipped zinc galvanised fastenings to the relevant standards. |
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20th Feb 2014 11:17pm |
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