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o4dn



Member Since: 08 Jan 2010
Location: South West
Posts: 539

France 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Dumb question most likely, but my 90 has no ARB whatsoever, could I still fit 3rd party ARB e.g. from Paddock? Do the axles differ for those with ARB fitted from factory, like additional mounting points for the ARB?
Post #285786 27th Nov 2013 8:45pm
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epictrail



Member Since: 20 Sep 2013
Location: High Wycombe
Posts: 395

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 110 Td5 HT Chawton White
Post #285840 27th Nov 2013 10:51pm
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Macpaul



Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Loire Blue
o4dn wrote:
Dumb question most likely, but my 90 has no ARB whatsoever, could I still fit 3rd party ARB e.g. from Paddock? Do the axles differ for those with ARB fitted from factory, like additional mounting points for the ARB?


I think you'll have no problem at all if yours is a 2009.

On my 2003, the mounting points were already there if a little rusty and gunged up. Some of the holes in the chassis brackets for the clamps weren't big enough so had to drill out but other than that, pretty straightforward job.

Made my 110 stop handling like a cross channel ferry. Thumbs Up 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop
Now a 2013 110 USW too.
Post #285867 28th Nov 2013 1:13am
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Nur Links



Member Since: 25 Jul 2013
Location: Sodom (or Gomorra) in the Low Countries
Posts: 35

Like you, my 90 Puma didn;t have any roll bars when I bought it from its previous owner. It's a so called "E" spec car which is sold (in some countries) as a very base spec car, mainly to utilities, etc...

Since my car was rolling about like an alcoholic and did not handle at all I wanted to fit anti roll bars as well. I fitted a kit put together with a mix of OE and aftermarket parts, which Devon 4x4 had specced for me. The parts are surprisingly cheap!

All the fittings and fixings were on the car, so fitting the bars is no problem at all! This should be the same on your car.

If you want to improve (on road) handling and comfort I can also recommend changing your shock absorbers. IMHO the OE dampers are crap with very limited damping, particularly on rebound on the rear. This was already apparent when driving and to check we put them on a test bench, which confirmed my thoughts. I changed them for a set of Bilsteins, which we modified internally to improve the characteristics further. The change in handling and comfort is incredible. I just took the car 2500kms to Southern Spain.

If you want, I can PM you a spec list for the ARB's
Post #285888 28th Nov 2013 8:37am
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epictrail



Member Since: 20 Sep 2013
Location: High Wycombe
Posts: 395

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 110 Td5 HT Chawton White
Why not just post the spec list for the bars here as i'm sure others would be interested Thumbs Up
Post #285893 28th Nov 2013 9:02am
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Nur Links



Member Since: 25 Jul 2013
Location: Sodom (or Gomorra) in the Low Countries
Posts: 35

Ok, hope all this part numbers make interesting reading Smile. Please make sure that you check the part numbers or call Devon to check. No affiliation with them whatsoever! They just were the only ones to give me a well thought out "fire and forget" solution. I copied this from the packing list I received from them:

NTC6776-BP STRAP
NTC6828-AM BUSH (L:6.21 NTC6828)
FS110356 SCREW (L:0.29)
NY110047L-AM M10 NYLOC NUT 985 BZP (L:0.95
LR033037-BP NY110047L) BAR - ROLL
NTC1888-BM Anti Roll Bar Ball Joint
RYG501480-BM Anti Roll Bar Pin
NV116041L-AM NUT (L:0.52 NV116041L)
EGP1889-BM Anti Roll Bar Bush
EGP1661L-BP BRACKET
FS108207L-BP SCREW FLANGED HEAD
FY108046-BP NUT - HEX.
LR033038-BM Anti Roll Bar Assembly Rear
RYG501490-BM Anti Roll Bar Pin
FY116046-AM NUT - HEX. (L:0.52 FY116046)

The Bilstein shocks I ordered direct. It's their basic damper which I had adapted to give it a more progressive (instead of degressive!) characteristic and more damping (bump and rebound, with a lot more rebound on the rear). The handling now resembles that of a car instead of a tugboat on pogo sticks. The OE dampers are strange: the original 110 dampers have the same characteristic as the 90 dampers, while the weight, length and rear overhang are very different. Efficient in production but not the best choice for owners. Some cars seem to have gas dampers ex works, others don't. Odd.

I want to drive the car more to see if an upgraded ARB on the rear would improve things even more. I took the car offroad in the Sierra Nevada on the way to Spain and for me the modifications had no negative side effects.

Further, my car is on Michelin Latitude Cross, which are what someone described in another thread as "ice cream van tyres", so no MT's. They are a very deliberate choice since 90% of my driving is on road or dirt roads, so no extreme stuff. I know: I'm a pussy! In Southern Spain it rarely rains, so I have little use for a "mud" tyre. I'm very happy with these tyres.










[/list]
Post #285907 28th Nov 2013 9:59am
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o4dn



Member Since: 08 Jan 2010
Location: South West
Posts: 539

France 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Thanks all for your replies! Much helpful! Thumbs Up
Post #286120 28th Nov 2013 9:37pm
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o4dn



Member Since: 08 Jan 2010
Location: South West
Posts: 539

France 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
LRM article is about fitting ARB on a 110, and while the front is obviously the same, the rear will differ. Would someone with a 90 fitted with ARB from factory be so nice to take a fews pics of the setup on a 90?
Post #287721 4th Dec 2013 7:50pm
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df1



Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Ireland
Posts: 221

How did you alter the shocks ?
Post #288215 6th Dec 2013 7:18pm
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borderterrier



Member Since: 09 Dec 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1677

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Post #288225 6th Dec 2013 7:44pm
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Nur Links



Member Since: 25 Jul 2013
Location: Sodom (or Gomorra) in the Low Countries
Posts: 35

[quote="df1"]How did you alter the shocks ?[/quote]

To measure and alter the shocks you need experience and professional equipment.

1. A 'sensitive backside' to feel what the dampers are doing right and wrong during driving
2. A professional shock absorber test bench and a computer hooked up to it. To establish settings, measure pre and post modification and to correlate with test drive.
3. In case of gas pressured shocks (Bilstein, Ohlins, etc...) a (de-)pressure and vacuum system

The guys who run my racing cars have the equipment and a lot of experience with suspension setup and damper modifications. They're also an official Ohlins technical center. Apart from all the competition cars they've now done several Defenders. I'm really happy with the results and so are the other owners. Amazing what you can achieve with some basic Bilstein dampers and some TLC.
Post #288329 7th Dec 2013 9:44am
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df1



Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Ireland
Posts: 221

Thanks for the info. Never knew it could be done.
Post #288461 7th Dec 2013 7:59pm
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 738

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
borderterrier wrote:
http://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=65_1759&product_id=77

huge difference


This is probably what i am going to go for Thumbs Up

Did you fit it yourself? Any problems?
Post #288532 8th Dec 2013 8:21am
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o4dn



Member Since: 08 Jan 2010
Location: South West
Posts: 539

France 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Quick follow up, I've ordered and fitted anti-roll bars,and as you said, handling is definitely much better on road and fitting was an easy job actually, no drilling needed, everything was there in place ready on the axles and chassis.

I do have one concern though, on the rear, I find the ball joint assembly to be fairly bent toward the front which I find odd, as if the anti-roll bar was too long.

Is this normal? I don't have access to a vehicle with ARB mounted from factory to use as a reference.


Click image to enlarge

[/img]
Post #296380 6th Jan 2014 5:53pm
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timbar



Member Since: 30 Jul 2013
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 245

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I had a good chat with a recovery chap who came to pick up a contract car from us last year when he found we had a 110. He mentioned we should get roll bars -- its our family car -- but I immediately figured he meant a roll cage. Now I'm not so sure.

I'm interested in adding a rollbar at the rear -- we have what looks like a standard one -- but I'm wondering if there are any insurance implications for a mod like this? 2009 110 XS Station Wagon
Post #296463 6th Jan 2014 9:43pm
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