 | Home > Td5 > Remove anti-roll bar |
 
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| Mountain_man Member Since: 09 Dec 2011 Location: Right side of Offas Dyke Posts: 756  
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IIRC they are the replaceable bits on the ends? Only a few quid to replace, so cut them off with a grinder!
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21st Dec 2013 8:14am |
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| Macpaul Member Since: 25 Mar 2013 Location: SW Surrey Posts: 439  
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If its the same as my 110, the roll bar is connected to drop links at each end which are connected to the axle.
Just undo the nuts/bolts remembering that the axle/link one is probably a castle nut with a split pin. Then apply Defender tool no.1 to persuade the bolts back through the bushes. Should be really simple. Then you need to undo the bolts clamping the bar to the chassis obvs. 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop Now a 2013 110 USW too. |
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21st Dec 2013 8:24am |
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826 
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The trouble is that after I removed the split pin from the castle nut, after a few turns to loosen it the nut is turning the spigot (due to corrosion etc) and I cant see how to get another spanner on it to hold both ends...if that makes any sense.
I'm not keen on getting the grinder on it, but it might be the only option. cheers simon |
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21st Dec 2013 9:36am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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Morning Simon,
I think you'll have trouble getting a grinder in. Cut off the rubber boot on the inner side of the drop link and see what is revealed. You may be able to get a pair of molegrips in there or a GS screwdriver or chisel to jam the spigot to prevent it rotating perhaps? Hope this helps.  If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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21st Dec 2013 10:01am |
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| Anderzander Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1000
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I took mine off a couple of years back - I'll have a link at in the garage and see if I can remember anything useful.
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21st Dec 2013 10:16am |
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826
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Yeah, cutting the boot off and getting some mole grips on looks the way to go... 
cheers simon |
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21st Dec 2013 10:32am |
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826
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That would be very useful, thanks...
cheers simon |
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21st Dec 2013 10:34am |
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| Macpaul Member Since: 25 Mar 2013 Location: SW Surrey Posts: 439
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I think you need a socket and a spanner rather than two spanners. And a biggish socket at that.
Or just try and jam a big bladed screwdriver (or something) between the castle nut and the axle fitting and then use the spanner on the nut you can get to. 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop Now a 2013 110 USW too. |
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21st Dec 2013 10:35am |
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670 
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I took mine off last year, wish i had done it sooner! Much nicer ride down tracks and you dont really notice the difference in normal road driving.
All i did was slide the boot back and use mole grips on the shaft to stop it turning. Remember to use penetrating oil as long as possible before you start. Pete. |
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21st Dec 2013 4:50pm |
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826
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Yes, mole grips it is..
cheers simon |
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21st Dec 2013 5:09pm |
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| jzk841 Member Since: 25 Jan 2016 Location: Rothbury, Northumberland Posts: 14 
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Did Molegrips Work ? I have the same issue... and about to try !
cheers Jon |
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10th Mar 2017 12:22pm |
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| jzk841 Member Since: 25 Jan 2016 Location: Rothbury, Northumberland Posts: 14
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could not wait.. used them... its off....
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10th Mar 2017 2:31pm |
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826
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Yes it did...glad it worked for you too...
Cheers Simon |
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11th Mar 2017 10:44am |
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