 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Driving light wiring conundrum |
 
|
|
|
| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610   
|
Why overcomplicate the issue?
Tap off the high beam from the headlight feed it through an OEM spotlight switch which has an LED indicator in it that illuminates when the lights are on (if you have a blank space). Live feed from battery or ignition through contacts of relay to spots. Part number for switch is: YUG000540LNF If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
||
30th Aug 2013 6:21pm |
|
| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
|
That's the one that's outstripped the national interest rate in the last 6mths. The above 3 way switch is usually arranged in 3 pairs of terminals, easy way to check is to put a multi meter across it in the various switching positions. Jusr a thought on your diagram, wouldn't it be better if the swich labels were the other way round? The feed from the fuse box through the switch being manual and the automatic being the one fed from the full beam when spots and full beam come on together.
|
||
|
30th Aug 2013 6:27pm |
|
| borderterrier Member Since: 09 Dec 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 1677 
|
I hear you ref the OE switch but they cost a fortune and I am a function over form bloke who likes a bargain! It's only complicated as I don't know how to wire the switch, once some kind soul throws some light (no punintended) on my £2.99 switch I should be good to go!
|
||
|
30th Aug 2013 6:57pm |
|
| CarlW Member Since: 21 Sep 2010 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 53  
|
Can't be sure without checking with a multi-meter but if the switch has 3 positions (centre off, up and down) then my guess would be that each set of 3 terminals on the switch is what is shown in the wiring diagram, just use one set of three connections (ie the 3 connections down one side of the switch) as per the switch in the wiring diagram. When the switch is in the up position I'd expect the centre terminal to be connected to the bottom terminal and when the switch is down the position the centre terminal will be connected to the top terminal.
Carl MY11 110 XS Station Wagon in Stornoway |
||
|
30th Aug 2013 10:40pm |
|
| borderterrier Member Since: 09 Dec 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 1677
|
Will give that a go tomorrow Carl thanks
|
||
|
30th Aug 2013 11:12pm |
|
| Phoenix90 Member Since: 04 Mar 2012 Location: Cornwall Posts: 377 
|
My answer would be to use a carling switch (available from forum sponsors) which is much neater and includes backlight inside of it, as well as an indication light for when it is on. Gives a very professional / factor finish look when used. Matt from FCX sells them, you would need an off -on -on.
It could easily be wired so in the bottom position it is off, push up one click you would have your driving lights come on with main beam headlights and with one more click could override the automation and turn them on manually. You should also have a 5A fuse in the blue line between 'tap here' and 'manual on', depending on the way the switch works you may also need a diode in there else when you turn the switch to manual override it might try to provide power back to the main beam of the headlights which would cause a much bigger current than your wiring would be ready for, also the reason for having a fuse in that wiring. If you need a diode I can post you one. |
||
|
31st Aug 2013 8:09am |
|
| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6102 
|
To be honest, why would you want to turn the driving lamps "off" separetely from main beam at all? you just flick to dipped beam and they go off.
Likewise with the warning light... you know they're on, as you'd be on main beam. just seems like more clutter to me. but everyone has their own personal choice granted. |
||
|
31st Aug 2013 8:42am |
|
| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
|
Diesel,
Dependant on wattage the lights may well have to be isolated from the main beam, especially MOT time. They also need to have a status on/off light of their own in that case. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
||
|
31st Aug 2013 9:51am |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20453
|
I agree with diesel jim. But K9F's point is also validated. Various laws and implications can come into it all to often. No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
||
|
31st Aug 2013 10:19am |
|
| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
|
'Offroad use only lights' need to be able to be isolated from the main beam and also have a seperate indicator when they are switched on. If the filaments are 55/65w you needn't bother. My lightforces rated at 100w would fail at MOT time if they didn't meet this criteria.
 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
||
|
31st Aug 2013 10:26am |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20453
|
Mine are 100w each with no switch. They are triggered from main beam only. But I understand you can't do this with lights on the roof though. No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
||
|
31st Aug 2013 11:44am |
|
| borderterrier Member Since: 09 Dec 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 1677
|
Finally found some time to do this, but before I do the work a quick question. Does it matter where the relay is located, should it be closer to the lights than the battery for instance or does it not matter? Thanks in advance.
 Click image to enlarge |
||
|
25th Sep 2013 12:12pm |
|
| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6102
|
It doesn't matter where the relay is mounted.
My preferance is to mount it in the underseat box near the other relays, mainly for neatness (keeping all the relays in a huddle together) but it also means that you don't have a live feed going all the way up to *wherever you mount the relay* (under bonnet or whatever) where there could potentially be a case where said live wire could get damaged/chaffed. But of course you'll have a fuse on it at the power source, so that won't really affect anything. |
||
|
25th Sep 2013 12:21pm |
|
| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
|
You could just tap off the high beam feed in the cab and supply the on contacts of your independant switch. Would cut down on wiring and still be independantly isolated by your switch from the normal main beam headlights. Of course you'd only be using two of your three sets of contacts. The extra set could be used for further lights if you wish to add more later perhaps?
If you've the switch in manual on from your diagram you would have to operate the switch manually to dip them. Bit of a faff if you've an unexpected motorist heading towards you. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
||
|
25th Sep 2013 5:50pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
