 | Home > Td5 > TD5 wiper spindles |
 
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5884   
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For the pair of spindles(with splined adapter to wiper arm bobbins), & spiral cable it came to £103.03
Just hope that they all go back together and play nicely. When relacing the cable do you undo from the motor end, pull back through and then replace? and then fitting is that the reverse? and how do you make sure the flat part of the spindle on the outside is facing the correct way? Apparantly you can for the TDCi ones but I think you need to change to TDCi wiper arms as well. The later TD5 ones have a thread on the end of the spindle for attaching the wiper arms instead of the splinned end and the clip 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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19th Aug 2013 7:04pm |
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| WarPig Member Since: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1748  
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They must be galvanised wiper arms then  |
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19th Aug 2013 7:06pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2693 
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I just pull the motor out with cable attached (removing the wipers allows the boxes to spin) and change it on the bench. Then feed it back in all built up. It doesn't matter which way the flats face on the spindles, the splined adaptors fit on and then you just fit the blade on the spine at the correct orientation. The splines are quite fine so there's enough adjustment there to get it about right, or as close as it's worth being given the inherent crappiness of the wiper system. Later (2002-onwards) Td5s had the later system yes, the wiper boxes are a different shape where they go through the bulkhead, the gear ratio is different, motor position is different as well as cable length and arm attachment as you say. No idea what Tdci models have, but I wouldn't be suprised if it is the same as the later Td5 setup. Your setup is the same as on all earlier 90/110/Defenders, so 1983 to 2001.
No, I'm just not that bothered if they go a bit rusty! Can always paint them if it's that much of an issue after all  |
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19th Aug 2013 7:23pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5884
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Thanks RA. I was thinking of the grub screw that holds the wiper arm splinned adapter on as its easier to get it on with the grub screw pointing upwards.
More fiddling when the parts arrive on Wednesday. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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19th Aug 2013 7:53pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2693
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Ah right. Well in that case if they're currently correct (i.e. facing upwards for access) remember the position it's in when you pull the cable out, then when you put the new one back in it should end up back at the same point. If they're not currently in the orientation you like then adjust it by the correct amount while the cable is out and it should end up roughly where you want it on re-installation.
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19th Aug 2013 8:12pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5884
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I was wondering that. Will find out when I get the parts. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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19th Aug 2013 8:16pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5884
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Parts collected from Hunters - Chester (thanks chaps) by the Mrs.
Home from work, couch, brew, change into work gear and then back to the car. Looking at the parts from LR the spindle had metal gears
So onto the job. Started by removing the wiper motor and removing the spiral cable that drives the spindles. Removed the old spindles and replaced with new ones from LR. Left the clamps slack so I could fit the tubes, Cut the spiral cable to length. Reattached to the motor and fed back through the tubes and then had to keep removing the spiral cable to re-adjust the spindles so the grub screw for the wiper splines was pointing upwards. Once I was happy, clamped the motor back in place and tightened up the clamps. Time for a quick test and yup they worked. No slippage. Lined up the wipers and another test...again success. Wipers parked and swept OK. Might need a couple more teaks on the arm positioning. Started putting the dash back together and trying to remember where each screw goes. Ran out of light so, still have the mud stuff dash to go back in. Thanks to those who offered words of wisdom. I have taken some pics so plan on putting them into a PDF at some point. So the moral of the story here is. Don't use after market parts for this job(how ever I was grateful for the parts I was sent by a forum member) but in the instance stick with genuine parts. If I had done so at the start, I would have had the job done on Sunday. I did however find 4 pens in the air vents and a empty packer of chewing gum. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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21st Aug 2013 8:50pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5884
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Rest of dash back in and the Mud console. Wipers still good
1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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22nd Aug 2013 8:44pm |
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| chipmunk Member Since: 10 May 2012 Location: Kelso Posts: 264 
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Agree on genuine parts. Got mine all to bits only to discover new Britpart cable would not engage with teeth on existing wheel boxes. The cable has to be cut to length so I couldn't take back for refund. So in the end I cleaned off old cable and wheel boxes and puts buckets of grease on the whole thing and (touch wood) it's been good.Someone previously mentioned that if you turn the wheel box 180 degrees you have new teeth, as it's a 180 degree motion. I did that even though the teeth looked unworn at 110k miles. Cable was covered in rusty looking 'ex grease' but cleaned up fine.
Ps Ooops!! just read thread above. Sorry for repeat! |
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7th Sep 2013 9:58am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5884
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Right peeps. Heres my go at how to change the wiper spindles with some pics to assist in your quest.
Part 1 Tools I used/had handy Screw driver set with changeable ends Long nose pliers Telescopic magnet for fishing out any screws you drop behind the dash. You might also need some sockets for removing the odd bolt here and there. Hex keys Penetrating spray Get a mug of your favourite brew.  Click image to enlarge Remove the cap/logo and remove the screw behind it. Also on mibe I had another screw holding the end section in place which was in the bottom section of the end cap. Remove this section of of the way for when you remove the top section of the dash Click image to enlarge Remove the screws along the underside of the top dash section, there are two I think Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Also if you have a centre console & top dash console then remove that as well. Remove the dash pod (screws at the each side and two underneath) Click image to enlarge Also remove the 3 screws that hold the top dash section in place and then remove the 4 screws that hold the air vents in place (careful not to drop the washers) Now remove the top of the dash Click image to enlarge Now remove the two screws that hold the air-vent in place on the metal supporting sections of the dash (red lines) and you may also need to remove the screw circled in blue to give you enough room to the screw driver in. The screws are located at the same end as the controls for the fan speed Click image to enlarge You will now see the drivers side spindle Onto the other side. The tricky part. For this we need to remove the plastic dash panel. To remove this, remove the plastic fir-tree clips located in the red circles, there at least 4 of them. Click image to enlarge I'm not sure of the exact way of doing this but I managed to get the panel out without removing much more of the dash. I jiggled, twisted and altered the bulkhead airvent till it was in the right place to pop out. If you can remove the air-vent knob this might also help. In the end you get. I had also removed the end section of the dash that covers the wiper motor. There are 3 screws that hold it in place and this withdraws outwards to reveal the wiper motor as you can see in the bottom left of the picture. This access is also needed as it aids the removal and refitting of the spindles. Click image to enlarge 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock Last edited by excossack on 12th Sep 2013 7:27pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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11th Sep 2013 8:57pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5884
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Right Part 2
Now we have removed most of the dash and both air vents we can now look at the wiper spindle boxes. I made sure the wipers where parked and then removed each are in turn - Dont drop the small clip thats in the wiper arm that locks the arm to the spindle. Hopefully when the arms are removed you should see two grub screws pointing upwards and roughly central, these hold the splined end in place. These need removing. You might need to use a puller to remove these if they are stuck fast. (Note:It might be an idea to do this bit in advance and soak the grub screws in penertrating fluid With these removed, I then proceeded to then start removing the wiper motor so you can extract the cable that runs through the spindle boxes. You can drop the motor down enough to turn it over and get access to the rear panel that has about 4 x 8mm nuts holding it in place. With this removed you can then see how the spiral cable is attached. This needs removing if you are replacing this, if not you could get away with just pulling the motor out altogether with the cable attached and without undoing the back plate. This will pull back through the spindles and if not slacken off the 2 bolts on each spindle. With this removed, now you can fully undo the nuts that hold the clamp in place and then remove the outside nut that holds the spindles to bulkhead. I think this is a 14 or 15mm nut and has a washer behind it. Below is the spindle with the nuts removed Click image to enlarge Remove the clamp and then remove the tubes that go into the clamps. Now jiggle the spindle boxes out of the bulkhead, it is possible to do this by getting the right angle to withdraw the spindle boxes without removing more dash. With these out put the new ones in place minus the outer clamp and put the nuts on the outside finger tight and add the splinded end. I found it a help if i marked the grub screw with tipex or and set it facing upwards like the old ones so I could see it from inside the cab. Now put the tubes back in place and refit the outer clamp (but don't tighten all the way at this stage)which will hold the tubes in place. If you are replacing the cable it needs cutting to the same length as the old one reattaching to the motor and the cover putting back on. With both spindles in place, reinsert the spiral cable into the tube and feed it through. You might need to rest the motor in the clamp while you check the grub screw location . At the this point hopefully all being well, you should see the spindles move and the grub screw rotate. It took a few goes getting the grub screw central, I did this by inserting the spiral cable all the way through and having the motor placed into the final resting position and checking the screw. If the screw was out either way I removed the cable slowly and when past the spindle I re-adjusted the grub screw accordingly. So with the cable in if the screw was past central I turned the spindle the opposite wayso it was before central and then re-inserted the cable and checked again. I did this a couple of times before the first one was correct then moved onto the 2nd one and repeated. Once happy I secured the motor, tightened up the clamps and then operated the wipers from the stalk to make sure they worked OK and had no issues. If all is OK, I then reattached the wiper arms and tested again. Again if all OK, I took the arms and splinded ends off tighted up the nut on the bulkhead put the rubber boot on and applied copper slip to the splined end and the grub screw before re-fitting the arms. All being well. you can now commence operation reverse and put all the panels back in place. I took the chance to grease/lube the linkages for the bulkhead vents and also fit an additional washer jet. Good luck! 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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12th Sep 2013 7:25pm |
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