↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Power to a camping trailer
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 2 12>
Print this entire topic · 
pjh



Member Since: 22 Nov 2010
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 126

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Power to a camping trailer
Hi,

I'm building our Sankey camping trailer and I've installed 2x Optima yellow top batteries. I wondered what recommendations forum members had for charging them from the LR whilst on the move. My thinking is to use decent (10mm) cable and a 50amp Anderson connector, any other recommendations?

Kind regards,

Peter Defender 11MY USW
Post #235077 12th May 2013 11:09pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
d j hutton



Member Since: 30 Jul 2009
Location: Dorset
Posts: 1044

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Why not just use the power via the normal trailer connector? I have a 110hr battery in the tin tent that charges that way no problem. I think you might need a 12 pin socket for that though (although not an expert Very Happy ) easily fitted to existing wiring by the looks of it . I got someone to fit that for me but there are a few posts on here about the conversion. - kits available to do it.

Dj 1989 200tdi 90 csw
2011 110 usw Orkney grey

Buy British 🇬🇧

Defender Clothing Designs available at http://www.rangesports.com/acatalog/Defender-Stuff.html
Post #235081 13th May 2013 12:02am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
BigRuss



Member Since: 15 May 2010
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 2785

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
anderson connectors? Russell
2011MY 110 XS USW Black
Post #235082 13th May 2013 2:21am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Send e-mail Reply with quote
Splitpin



Member Since: 07 May 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 100

United Kingdom 
If it was me I would use the standard caravan charge output.

I personally like to charge a slow rates and a thin long supply cable will regulate this well.

I would add some solar panels on the top of the trailer if possible as on a good day they
work very well, but for me the key thing is, even if the trailer is left unused for sometime the battery will be topped up and it will last longer if kept in that condition.
Post #235093 13th May 2013 6:38am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
jasong4110



Member Since: 18 Oct 2009
Location: Henley On Thames
Posts: 268

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 G4 LE Java Black
When I built my trailor I used a 12s charger it also had the advantage of giving me a reverse light. The genuine 12 s kits are available on eBay for around 50 .

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=49598

I fitted the electrics from a caravan and boat and kept it all 12v except fo a 800w inverter, I find this wastes less energy as you are not converting things both ways. I also added a 240v hookup with a caravan charger/power supply when we are at home on a camp site this allows us to charge the batteries prior to our trips and run the fridge up to temp without having to worry about battery drain.

Jason
Post #235097 13th May 2013 6:59am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
Another vote for using a standard caravan charging set-up - either 7 pin 12s or later 13 pin socket. Even the Desert Wolf trailer that I used to have, with two 110amp batteries on board, worked perfectly like this. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia


Last edited by LandRoverAnorak on 13th May 2013 3:23pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #235099 13th May 2013 7:23am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
I just added a 12S 7-pin socket in addition to the standard 12N 7-pin trailer socket. The 12S gives permanent connection to the truck's battery, and also gives the flexibility to easily connect a Ctek charger to the main battery without having to take out the seat bottom. If you use the site's search engine with "Ctek" you will get a recent started thread about this with pictures of how it all looks in the back. Thumbs Up You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #235172 13th May 2013 1:47pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
pjh



Member Since: 22 Nov 2010
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 126

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Thanks everyone!

Eric that's a very neat solution. My problem is that I installed a standard 12N socket in the cross-member recess and then had an additional fuel tank installed in the rear wing, so access to the connectors is very difficult if not impossible. Otherwise I probably would go down the 12S (auxiliary) socket route.

I might install a higher rated feed with a voltage sensitive relay in the trailer - I don't want to drain the truck battery when on the Santander ferry!

Anyone know how the purpose built off-road trailers solve this problem - esp those with fridge/freezers?

Many thanks,

Peter Defender 11MY USW
Post #235832 15th May 2013 4:41pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
chopcat



Member Since: 11 Sep 2012
Location: Pembrokeshire
Posts: 412

Wales 2000 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Java Black
run cables from a relay (use the winch relay if you have one) to the rear and make it switchable both on an ignition feed and switch.

That way you can never leave them connected with the engine off and you can select when to join if you have low battery on the truck when starting off. You dont need fancy voltage sensitive controllers.

Take all that to an anderson plug at the back and off you go.

Time for coffee!

CC

[URL=]
Click image to enlarge
[/URL]

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #235839 15th May 2013 5:14pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
pjh



Member Since: 22 Nov 2010
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 126

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Chopcat, thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

That's a very nice set-up. Just don't let Kiwi Girl see that!! Smile

All the best,

Peter Defender 11MY USW
Post #235847 15th May 2013 5:34pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
pjh wrote:
I don't want to drain the truck battery when on the Santander ferry! Anyone know how the purpose built off-road trailers solve this problem - esp those with fridge/freezers? Many thanks, Peter


I work on Condor Ferries and anyone in that position with an auxillary single phase 230v/32amp (blue) or indeed in some cases 3 phase 415v/63amp (red) connector can request to be connected to the vessel's 'Reefer Supply' with a trailing lead supplied by the vessel thereby still run everything whilst under sail. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #235854 15th May 2013 5:54pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
pjh



Member Since: 22 Nov 2010
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 126

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
K9F - many thanks, I'd no idea that was possible Thumbs Up

All the best,

Peter Defender 11MY USW
Post #236302 17th May 2013 11:37am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
udderlyoffroad



Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Bristol
Posts: 124

United Kingdom 
In your position I'd think seriously about replacing the 12n socket in your rear cross-member with a the new 13-pin style connection. When wired properly this will power your aux batteries with the ignition on and not flatten your main battery whilst on the ferry.

In addition, the 13-pin style connection is, iMHO, an improvement on the previous 12N/S sockets with better mechanical lock.

What I would definitely NOT do is run an Anderson connector wired permanently to the trailer. Although the design of the Anderson is good, is not designed for permanent connection in an exposed environment and I would worry about a dunking shorting the connection out (even with a protective boot+front cover). Real trucks don't have spark plugs
Post #236477 17th May 2013 10:06pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
me@td5.org



Member Since: 16 Jan 2011
Location: Warwick
Posts: 856

2000 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
If it's dry I will be fitting my 13pin socket although I haven't picked up a voltage sensitive relay yet so the ignition on feed will have to wait. The permanent live and reverse wires are already on the standard plug.

I'm hoping to re-use the original cable from the sankey with a new 13pin plug. www.td5.org
Post #236731 18th May 2013 9:58pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
I've done this twice now with a 13 pin plug. On my first Wide Track I grafted the plug onto the end of the existing cable, which was a bit of a challenge frankly, due to the thickness of the cable. I made it work by cutting off all of the really unnecessary wires to just get the lights working.

On my current Wide Track I've taken a different approach and created a junction box that's bolted to the A frame, using the mountings for the original plug 'keep'. This makes it much easier to sort out the wiring conversion and allows a more sensible cable size to be used with the new 13 pin plug.


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


Eventually, i'll be re-wiring my trailer anyway, as I plan to change the lights and add some camping-orientated extras. These will make full use of the 13 pin plug in the same way that a caravan does. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #236775 19th May 2013 8:44am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 2 12>
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums