Home > Puma (Tdci) > Water-in-fuel-sensor |
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dgardel Member Since: 30 Nov 2008 Location: Veneto (Heart & Head) Posts: 3586 |
on africaland.it forum we have done a group buy
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge and Stanadyne Cup Click image to enlarge Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition IID Pro MV License |
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9th May 2013 3:10pm |
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sasha2001 Member Since: 02 Jan 2009 Location: New Zealand+ russia Posts: 206 |
I think there is a water alarm kit kit for the Standyne filter and collection bowl that you can use on the Puma
Filter: http://thomasauto.absolutewebhosting2.co.u...--LR029098 Water alarm http://thomasauto.absolutewebhosting2.co.u...-Kit-29268 I have a similar one on my Racor 230r and it worked a treat when I got a bowl full of water with a audible alarm and a red warning light . |
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11th May 2013 8:36am |
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Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015 |
landybehr, that is the attitude I have. When traveling I tend to check fluids, tires etc on a regular basis- which out here also includes checking the underside for buildup of scrub so taking another 2 seconds to check the bowl is no hardship.
Then again, some people do like a light/ buzzer as another form of warning too. Glyn |
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20th May 2013 3:57pm |
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sasha2001 Member Since: 02 Jan 2009 Location: New Zealand+ russia Posts: 206 |
Yes each to their own.
I checked my filter every couple of months, I had checked it a month before and not used the car after filling it up before my trip. The light/buzzer came on after 80km of that trip, I drained it and got water (at least 20ml to 25ml) plus 5ml in the LR filter and carried on, after 20km again the buzzer and the same amount of water in the Racor 230r and the LR filter. I turned for home and had to drain it four more times on the way back. so in all I had over 100ml of water , that amount of water would have overwhelmed the one single LR filter so I think the buzzer was a great idea and also gave me confidence to carry on. I am not sure you would check your filter every 20km. Drained the tank and got another 20ml to 30ml of waterout as well so as it saved me a potential bill of over four thousand pounds I think the buzzer was a great idea. |
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22nd May 2013 5:39am |
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landybehr Member Since: 17 Apr 2013 Location: -D- Posts: 173 |
Youīre certainly right about that. And you made me rethink the matter. For me it shall work out like at home the standard filter without even a bowl will work like loads of LRīs prove. But the bowl will provide some minutes of centended wrenchig so be added. And when I go abroad the electric sensor is there then for peace of mind. Iīll have a look at whether the sensor is easily/safely fitted to the bowl in which case they both may be installed same time. If not itīs an either/or case respective of operating conditions. |
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26th May 2013 7:50am |
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landybehr Member Since: 17 Apr 2013 Location: -D- Posts: 173 |
BTW:
the CAD-Drawing which is very useful to replicate the plate to move the filter upwards seems to have an error in it. The two holes at the lower left are called to be 10mm up from the baseline. But the need to be some more mmīs further up. If one looks at the pictures (in the link of the Australian Forum), TimNZ made of his finished plate it becomes obvious. I cannot tell by how much the holes need to move, because after fill-welding the holes I already made I used the factory filter mounting plate as a template. see there Click image to enlarge Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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26th May 2013 2:10pm |
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dgardel Member Since: 30 Nov 2008 Location: Veneto (Heart & Head) Posts: 3586 |
mhmmmm
somehings wrong? Click image to enlarge our are in line...... Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition IID Pro MV License |
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26th May 2013 5:24pm |
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Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015 |
If you had at least 5ml in the filter the system is already compromised- you would have already had water in the pipes, and damage would have already begun. If a buzzer gives you the confidence to carry on driving with a tank which has a considerable amount of water in it- I really don't want one. In the same situation I would have either: A. Called for recovery (if on regular highway). B. Drained the tank, filled up and changed the filter before bleeding the system out and then carried on with the trip- I always have minimum 40 litres spare (in cans) and a spare filter when on longer off-road journeys. I can't see how you have saved Ģ4,000. You would have had small amounts of water passing through the system for the whole 80Km journey home plus anything that passed through before the first buzz. This is what does the damage as there is a prolonged time of water in the system. Glyn |
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26th May 2013 6:10pm |
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landybehr Member Since: 17 Apr 2013 Location: -D- Posts: 173 |
@DGardel - if the holes are in-line, that plate would certainly not fit my car. Would make me wonder if Rover changed the filter mounting with the 2.2.
As said, I pre-drilled my plate as suggested by the drawing and no chance to have all 4 bolts attached. EDIT- Iīve just looked at your plate - it seems to have quite large holes for the bolts which will allow for some adjustment. But the studs will still have to be not in line ?!? What really stopped me was that the chassis has one bracket that is in the way of the relocating plate. My time management was bad today and to keep my wife mobile I needed to put it all back together without the modification. I just had another look at the Austral.Forum and Timīs pictures. He has bent that bracket upwards out of the way (the offending part of the bracket is of no use nor structurally needed - IMHO. One could even cut it off, but thatīs the 2nd best way after simply bending it I guess. @Glyn - how comes that 5ml of water in the filter already will cause some flow-by passing the filter. I wanted to think that some amount of water would listen to what gravity and density of fluids dictates it and in the end gather at the bottom of the fuel filter (or additionally the sedimentor/collector bowl). The fuel filter is not too big, but 5ml donīt look like enough to flood it in my eyes. |
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26th May 2013 8:01pm |
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Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015 |
Water imbeds itself into diesel. If over a 20Km journey you have 20-25ml of water in the fuel that has been 'filtered' out of about 2 litres of fuel. The filter will not remove all the water from the diesel therefore damage is occurring. By then removing the water from the filter than carrying on you are allowing more small amounts of water in the system.
If your filter got saturated in the first 20km, and the engine cut out/ got lumpy you would then drain the tank, change the filter and flush the system so any damage is limited to the first 20Km. I am not saying the sensor is a bad idea- it is a good one and along with a heater element if you are in cold conditions. But you shouldn't 'Get away' with things because you have one. Here in Cyprus it is guaranteed that you get some free water and sand with every tank of fuel. I have the bowl to keep an eye on it-a and so I can be sure to drain off all water before going to the mountains in the winter (normally hits -30). If there were large amounts of water in the fuel it has to be rectified ASAP to prevent damage. Glyn |
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27th May 2013 8:33am |
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dgardel Member Since: 30 Nov 2008 Location: Veneto (Heart & Head) Posts: 3586 |
need to check...... Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition IID Pro MV License |
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27th May 2013 7:22pm |
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landybehr Member Since: 17 Apr 2013 Location: -D- Posts: 173 |
Glyn,
Iīm puzzled. Partly because lucky me has never had made any bad experience with spoiled Diesel fuel. How do you make sure that the 40litre spare fuel is waterless ? Where to drain the fuel to when youīre on the way? See, I start thinking at the point where I start a trip with good fuel and fill up when itīs needed. At this process I have no chance (unless? --> see the bottom of my text) to notice that water entered the tank too. So Iīm unaware and carry on and .. with only the bowl I get no warning. If sceptical, I could get out and check after a few miles, if not .. donīt know what happens next. You KNOW that the fuel is bad. I donīt envy you that. But that makes you prepared and cautious. In that context I remember something out of the catalogue from an expedition supplier. The have a funnel with a strainer in it. It shall separate the water right before it enters the tank. But I do not have the slightest idea if itīs of any use. The text tells that 80% of the water is kept out with itīs help. Dirt/sand I could imagine will be filtered even more effectively. Link: http://www.woick.de/outdoor-shop/de/wasser...-590g.html And, BTW: should a second filter, put into the fuel line BEFORE the original fuel filter, solve the problem ? I could imagine that this pre-filter is only there to take away most of the dirt and water to relieve the "real" filter and it has the sensor attached, while the "real" filter has the bowl. If so, which "pre-Filter" is good to be used and how to make the connections? |
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27th May 2013 8:06pm |
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landybehr Member Since: 17 Apr 2013 Location: -D- Posts: 173 |
Glyn,
just sth. coming to my mind - as you say you regularly have lots of water in the fuel. And you probably have warm climate. Iīm wondering if you might have another problem aside from water and sand. When I heard about microorganisms spelling for trouble it usually was with marine-engines. Probably because fuel tanks in boats often have long times without being used and this gives microorganisms time to grow. There are fluids to add to the fuel which help. Maybe worth a try, if just for curiousity? The relevant part of: http://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/MAHLE_Aft...el-filters is this: WATER IN DIESEL A BREEDING GROUND FOR MICROORGANISMS Diesel fuel whether fossil or from renewable raw materials contains always a small amount of water with nutrients that provide the basis for the undisturbed growth of bacteria, yeasts, algae and fungi. For biodiesel, the capability to solve water and therefore its holding capacity for water is even greater and water separation in the fuel filter is reduced. As water promotes bioactivity, there is an increased risk that microorganisms may develop that cause the fuel to break down into its basic constituents and lead to corrosion or formation of biomass. When the fuel filter is repeatedly clogged by gelatinous material, this type of diesel oil pest can be the reason. The condensation water in the tank of the vehicle can constantly provide nutrients for the small organisms. In order to contain the growth of such microorganisms, diesel fuel should not be stored for longer time periods. If this cannot be avoided, the tank should always be kept as full as possible a large air volume favours the formation of condensation water. Also storage in warm environments (for instance, in aboveground tanks exposed to solar radiation as used in farming), promotes the formation of microorganisms. |
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29th May 2013 5:32pm |
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appaloosadude Member Since: 17 Oct 2012 Location: Buckinghamshire Posts: 630 |
"Diesel Bug"
Seen it a lot on canal boats, and also, in Horseboxes - long periods of standing idle combined with a) poor maintenance, and b) a reluctance to keep tanks full due to general meanness or fear of theft. It sure does Ivecos/DAFs... |
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29th May 2013 6:37pm |
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